My rancher would die after idling a while so I thought I'd replace the fuel filter and pump. After doing so it will not start. I pulled the injector and it's squirting fuel when It is trying to start so I know it's getting fuel. I've checked the spark plug it's getting spark. It will start if you pour fuel on the air filter for a few seconds.I also noticed when the fuel injector was out and I was turning over the motor if I pushed the throttle the fuel would stop, which seems odd to me. I'm new to fuel injected atvs though. Any help is appreciated..
Honda 420 Fuel Injection Help
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Tcooper02
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I’m far from a electrical genius but got a good understanding of it . Personally I’d cut that section out and solder a new piece in with shrink wrap . Like jeep said if it’s not severed then that’s not your problem . I’d do what Jeep says , seems like he has more experience with the new systems.
Thanks for the tip; both of them.
The 420 runs a few seconds when the intake is doused with chemtool brake clean. Does that not eliminate a bad coil?
My wife is milking the mothers day thing. I have to do stuff with and for her, but I'll get back on this by late afternoon.
Thanks again.
I'm thinking the mouse damage did not cause the issue because the bare wires aren't grounding/shorting on anything. But it still has to be repaired.
My anal side (LOL) agrees and is tempted to do a gauge match with the wire. Just in case the current flow to wherever that red striped blue wire terminates, is super sensitive.
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That jumper trick will basically bypass the fuel injection relay, the bank angle sensor, and if it runs with the jumper you can start looking at those components one at a time (tells you the problem is not a bad fuel pump, injector etc)
An excellent tactic! Thanks for that Jeep. I would like your opinion on my reasoning.
EDIT: post # 32 explains my misdiagnosis below
While holding the fuel pump in my hand, with it's + and - leads hooked directly to a fully charged battery, I hear nothing and feel nothing; doesn't that tell me the pump has pumped its last?
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Yeah, the fuel pumps on the EFI machines aren't stout at all. If you leave them for any length of time with ethanol fuel in them it will ruin them.
Get a used OEM fuel pump from Powersportsnation.com (they guarantee their used parts) and put it on.
I would try the jumper wire first to see if it will run. If it won't then your fuel pump is likely your problem.
Get a used OEM fuel pump from Powersportsnation.com (they guarantee their used parts) and put it on.
I would try the jumper wire first to see if it will run. If it won't then your fuel pump is likely your problem.
EDIT: Post #32 in this thread explains my disagnosis below
As to the direct jumper wire to coil; the fuel pump is lounging in a parts pan along with the D.O.A. $18 Ebay Chinese pump. I'd need a functioning pump to run this diagnostic? OR...can I squirt some brake clean all up in there?
I'm headed to powersportsnation right now. Thanks again!
Agree on the alcohol (ethanol) poisoning. Absolutely nasty in carbs too. I have a habit of dosing every tank of gas with this stuff. Pretty sure I dosed the rangers last tank. EDIT: I mean 5 gallon can
![Image]()
As to the direct jumper wire to coil; the fuel pump is lounging in a parts pan along with the D.O.A. $18 Ebay Chinese pump. I'd need a functioning pump to run this diagnostic? OR...can I squirt some brake clean all up in there?
I'm headed to powersportsnation right now. Thanks again!
Agree on the alcohol (ethanol) poisoning. Absolutely nasty in carbs too. I have a habit of dosing every tank of gas with this stuff. Pretty sure I dosed the rangers last tank. EDIT: I mean 5 gallon can
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I would get a new pump if all you have is a china pump and the old one is already taken out.
No idea what year the filter changed, but the new style superceded the old style, so unless someone has an old one left over on the shelf and you specify the old part number, anything you order will be the new style.
I just buy ethanol free gas. Cheaper and easier than additives.
https://www.pure-gas.org/
No idea what year the filter changed, but the new style superceded the old style, so unless someone has an old one left over on the shelf and you specify the old part number, anything you order will be the new style.
I just buy ethanol free gas. Cheaper and easier than additives.
https://www.pure-gas.org/
Power sports nation has a used pump available for pretty much every year. They are sold by year model. That's the reason I asked about compatibility. I don't know if a salvaged 2007 pump would have the upgrade. But, I agree with you;
I found a new OEM pump for about $15 more than the most expensive (newest) one from Power Sports Nation. Gonna go with that one. Those PSN guys offer free shipping. Not Partzilla. Not unless I can come up with another $50 on the order. I'll check the relay.
I did get a replacement filter with the Chinese pump; in fact, 2. One each for the original horizontal and the new vertical positions. They appear pretty good quality. This fact made risking $18 on the Chinese pump palatable.
My station is a resource for real fuel. It's on the data base. I buy the cheap stuff for all my non street-able gas consumers. It's all corn enriched. Star tron has kept my vintage/carbed motorcycles and lawn/power equipment happy for years. NO E FREE FUEL in WNC when i lived there. Even the good stuff turns on you eventually. Maybe its possible I forgot the star-tron last year.
I found a new OEM pump for about $15 more than the most expensive (newest) one from Power Sports Nation. Gonna go with that one. Those PSN guys offer free shipping. Not Partzilla. Not unless I can come up with another $50 on the order. I'll check the relay.
I did get a replacement filter with the Chinese pump; in fact, 2. One each for the original horizontal and the new vertical positions. They appear pretty good quality. This fact made risking $18 on the Chinese pump palatable.
My station is a resource for real fuel. It's on the data base. I buy the cheap stuff for all my non street-able gas consumers. It's all corn enriched. Star tron has kept my vintage/carbed motorcycles and lawn/power equipment happy for years. NO E FREE FUEL in WNC when i lived there. Even the good stuff turns on you eventually. Maybe its possible I forgot the star-tron last year.
Well, this changes everything!
Egg on face... BIG TIME!
If a guy is going to use jumper cables, he ought to make sure the amps and ohms can travel from one end to the other...unimpeded! Something made me think to test them. My decades old positive jumper couldn't pass current. And I had used it to pass judgement on components.
I made up some new cables and retested the things I had intended (and failed) to run 12 volts to. Here are those results;
Relay has continuity to both the engine stop side and the fuel pump side. ='s good IMHO.
Fuel Pumps: OEM pump still doesn't respond to electro-shock. ='s DEAD! Chinese Ebay $18.00 pump Spins right up. Glad I figured this out before spending $90.00 at Partzilla for something I don't need.
I drained the tank of old fuel. It didn't smell too terribly off. Here's my plan:
I'm going to remove the tank and put some bb's inside and give it a vigorous shaking. I know there is no rust in there but I bought this rancher used 5 years back. It just seems prudent to take this precaution to loosen any crud that might have settled and stuck to the plastic innards before plugging everything back up.
The $18 pump is going to get a chance to redeem itself after I maligned it in this thread. I am going to go back and edit in a correction on those posts for others who might be chasing FI issues. Anyhow, I'll reassemble the pump and give it a try. Hopefully the pump is the only culprit in this crime.
One last question; Do you think I need new green fuel line connectors? These appear good to go another round. If your opinion is replace regardless, The Honda stuff (need to order) is the same as the NAPA parts (in stock) I assume?
Egg on face... BIG TIME!
If a guy is going to use jumper cables, he ought to make sure the amps and ohms can travel from one end to the other...unimpeded! Something made me think to test them. My decades old positive jumper couldn't pass current. And I had used it to pass judgement on components.
I made up some new cables and retested the things I had intended (and failed) to run 12 volts to. Here are those results;
Relay has continuity to both the engine stop side and the fuel pump side. ='s good IMHO.
Fuel Pumps: OEM pump still doesn't respond to electro-shock. ='s DEAD! Chinese Ebay $18.00 pump Spins right up. Glad I figured this out before spending $90.00 at Partzilla for something I don't need.
I drained the tank of old fuel. It didn't smell too terribly off. Here's my plan:
I'm going to remove the tank and put some bb's inside and give it a vigorous shaking. I know there is no rust in there but I bought this rancher used 5 years back. It just seems prudent to take this precaution to loosen any crud that might have settled and stuck to the plastic innards before plugging everything back up.
The $18 pump is going to get a chance to redeem itself after I maligned it in this thread. I am going to go back and edit in a correction on those posts for others who might be chasing FI issues. Anyhow, I'll reassemble the pump and give it a try. Hopefully the pump is the only culprit in this crime.
One last question; Do you think I need new green fuel line connectors? These appear good to go another round. If your opinion is replace regardless, The Honda stuff (need to order) is the same as the NAPA parts (in stock) I assume?
Clean and Reassembly
I'm finished cleaning components and on my way to a running rancher.
But wait!
I know...I should have taken a picture! I'm ashamed that I did not. Not too ashamed to ask for help, apparently.
Before Giving Up On Pristine;
![Image]()
After Cleaning: and beginning to reassemble; and realizing I'm not sure about the terminal pins' (bottom of the pic) polarity.
I know the lower (top of pic) @-the-pump-connection is correct. But, can anyone tell me if I have the positive and negative correct at those pin like connectors at the top of the housing (bottom right of the pic)?
EDIT: I think the positive and negative are reversed here. Wrong pic. I have the positive mating to the brown pin terminal on the p2 terminal atop the pump housing. Is that correct?
![Image]()
EDIT Wiring is finished. Pump whirs with enthusiasm. I'm going to auto parts store in the morning for those green clips we aren't supposed to reuse. I'll be surprised if it doesn't light off at the slightest touch of the starter. Good news is, the forum wont have to suffer through this thread any longer.
My fingers are crossed for you.
I'm finished cleaning components and on my way to a running rancher.
But wait!
I know...I should have taken a picture! I'm ashamed that I did not. Not too ashamed to ask for help, apparently.
Before Giving Up On Pristine;
After Cleaning: and beginning to reassemble; and realizing I'm not sure about the terminal pins' (bottom of the pic) polarity.
I know the lower (top of pic) @-the-pump-connection is correct. But, can anyone tell me if I have the positive and negative correct at those pin like connectors at the top of the housing (bottom right of the pic)?
EDIT: I think the positive and negative are reversed here. Wrong pic. I have the positive mating to the brown pin terminal on the p2 terminal atop the pump housing. Is that correct?
EDIT Wiring is finished. Pump whirs with enthusiasm. I'm going to auto parts store in the morning for those green clips we aren't supposed to reuse. I'll be surprised if it doesn't light off at the slightest touch of the starter. Good news is, the forum wont have to suffer through this thread any longer.
My fingers are crossed for you.
I gambled with a half hour of my time; I reused the old clips. I couldn't see any stress cracks and the old ones were as flexible as the factory fresh examples. Worst thing that could have happened? Disassemble and replace with parts I now have on hand. Fortunately, no leaks under vigorous and extended cranking. BUT...
The chase is still on. As soon as I muster the motivation, I'll take off panels and see if I left something disconnected or if the new $18.00 Ebay pump isn't pumping hard enough. I hear it spinning when switch is first activated and I felt it torque in my hand when I pre-install tested, so I doubt this is the problem.
It's like the gift that keeps on giving. I do love the intrigue, but I was let down by the lack of combustion.
The chase is still on. As soon as I muster the motivation, I'll take off panels and see if I left something disconnected or if the new $18.00 Ebay pump isn't pumping hard enough. I hear it spinning when switch is first activated and I felt it torque in my hand when I pre-install tested, so I doubt this is the problem.
It's like the gift that keeps on giving. I do love the intrigue, but I was let down by the lack of combustion.
Thanks for the suggestion, Jeep.
Before I hooked up the hoses on top of the refreshed pump housing, I turned the petcock to the up (reserve) position. Gas flowed free and clean. Because it did, I bypassed the shaken bb treatment to the tank and went straight to reassembly.
The petcock flow test was conducted before adding any fuel to the tank. I siphoned the tank and left it open to the air for a few days. So, what flowed from the feed pipe had been in the petcock pick up pipe since my first post in this thread... when I first removed the pump housing.
I'll remove the feed line from the top of the housing and check that it still flows before going any deeper into a tear down. I almost hope that is the issue.
Before I hooked up the hoses on top of the refreshed pump housing, I turned the petcock to the up (reserve) position. Gas flowed free and clean. Because it did, I bypassed the shaken bb treatment to the tank and went straight to reassembly.
The petcock flow test was conducted before adding any fuel to the tank. I siphoned the tank and left it open to the air for a few days. So, what flowed from the feed pipe had been in the petcock pick up pipe since my first post in this thread... when I first removed the pump housing.
I'll remove the feed line from the top of the housing and check that it still flows before going any deeper into a tear down. I almost hope that is the issue.
It Lives!
Because I hate to chase threads to a dead end when I'm having issues; here's an update.
Could have been divine intervention because I have no idea what I did to affect the cure.
Nice breezy low humidity day today. The kind of day that inspires a guy....to ride the ever lovin crap out of his motorcycle. Somehow, my conscience convinced me to do something moderately productive instead.
I pulled the panels off, pulled the pumps out-feed line (it leaked fresh fuel), turned the key and witnessed increased fuel flow.
I moved the coil tray out of the way, disconnected the TB, pulled that gas line, turned on the key and fuel pumped into an empty container, with vigor.
I put it back together and decided to test for combustion before checking spark.
It lit up pretty near instantly. It idled while I replaced all the panels. I shut it down after all the body work was back on, let it cool and it lit right back up.
Encouraged, I rode it. I shifted gears, accelerated hard, braked hard and shut it off. It lit right up. I turned it hard in both directions. I changed directions at flip-me speeds, shut it off and hit the button. It lit right up.
Runs great! Chinese pump works fine....so far. I need to go buy a lottery ticket.
Because I hate to chase threads to a dead end when I'm having issues; here's an update.
Could have been divine intervention because I have no idea what I did to affect the cure.
Nice breezy low humidity day today. The kind of day that inspires a guy....to ride the ever lovin crap out of his motorcycle. Somehow, my conscience convinced me to do something moderately productive instead.
I pulled the panels off, pulled the pumps out-feed line (it leaked fresh fuel), turned the key and witnessed increased fuel flow.
I moved the coil tray out of the way, disconnected the TB, pulled that gas line, turned on the key and fuel pumped into an empty container, with vigor.
I put it back together and decided to test for combustion before checking spark.
It lit up pretty near instantly. It idled while I replaced all the panels. I shut it down after all the body work was back on, let it cool and it lit right back up.
Encouraged, I rode it. I shifted gears, accelerated hard, braked hard and shut it off. It lit right up. I turned it hard in both directions. I changed directions at flip-me speeds, shut it off and hit the button. It lit right up.
Runs great! Chinese pump works fine....so far. I need to go buy a lottery ticket.
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6,498 Posts
Thanks for posting up the conclusion.
It's frustrating to have something start working and not know what you did, but at least it works!
The Rincon that's been in my yard for about 2 years wouldn't shift out of first without locking up the rear wheels. I took it apart and put it back together a couple of times, and suddenly it shifts fine. No idea what I did. Wish I knew what the problem was just to know, but at this point, just want it out of my yard.
It's frustrating to have something start working and not know what you did, but at least it works!
The Rincon that's been in my yard for about 2 years wouldn't shift out of first without locking up the rear wheels. I took it apart and put it back together a couple of times, and suddenly it shifts fine. No idea what I did. Wish I knew what the problem was just to know, but at this point, just want it out of my yard.
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