Seems to me that the best way is to take the spindle complitely off and use a big socket to drive the bearing out. I wanna say the bearing should come out toward the inside but i would just pull the seals off and see which side has a lip, thus sayin you need to go the oppisit way. Hope this helps.
Wheel Bearings How To?
Hello all,
I'm brand new here. Just bought my first quad. A 98 450ES, all original. I am a long time hobby auto mechanic....over 25 years! Currently building a 74 Bronco and constantly working on an 86 Capri 5.0L, 89 Mustang GT and 68 Cougar.
I bought Quadboss bearings since the wheels seemed loose. These a good choice (a little late now, I guess)? On a car, you'd just tighten the bearings up.
Can you drive these bearings out without removing the knuckle from the ball joints? Do you drive them in (towards the quad) or out (away from the quad)? What about intereference from the hub and shaft?
You guys have any tips?
Thanks,
Mikey
I'm brand new here. Just bought my first quad. A 98 450ES, all original. I am a long time hobby auto mechanic....over 25 years! Currently building a 74 Bronco and constantly working on an 86 Capri 5.0L, 89 Mustang GT and 68 Cougar.
I bought Quadboss bearings since the wheels seemed loose. These a good choice (a little late now, I guess)? On a car, you'd just tighten the bearings up.
Can you drive these bearings out without removing the knuckle from the ball joints? Do you drive them in (towards the quad) or out (away from the quad)? What about intereference from the hub and shaft?
You guys have any tips?
Thanks,
Mikey
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Thanks! Once I took off the wheel, it was pretty clear how to remove and replace the bearings. Kind of a pain to remove the knuckle but nothing serious.
I've worked on cars my whole life. This is like working on a little toy car!
Cheers,
Mikey
I've worked on cars my whole life. This is like working on a little toy car!
Cheers,
Mikey
You don't have to drive the bearing out of the knuckle. There is a snap ring inside the knuckle that must be removed to get the bearing out.
It's been a while since I've done it, but here is my best recollection of how to do it.
> remove wheel, brake drum, remove the shock from the A-arm.
> remove castle hut on the axle.
> drive out the tie rod and the ball joint from the knuckle. Leave the castle nut on while doing this, so you don't ruin the threds.
>At this point, I believe you should be able to wrestle the knuckle of.
>remove inner and outer seals.
>under the outer seal is the snap ring, remove the snap ring. The bearing will slide out.
>pack the bearing, and reassemble.
I believe that is all of it.
Hope this helps.
Blessings,
TRHOD
It's been a while since I've done it, but here is my best recollection of how to do it.
> remove wheel, brake drum, remove the shock from the A-arm.
> remove castle hut on the axle.
> drive out the tie rod and the ball joint from the knuckle. Leave the castle nut on while doing this, so you don't ruin the threds.
>At this point, I believe you should be able to wrestle the knuckle of.
>remove inner and outer seals.
>under the outer seal is the snap ring, remove the snap ring. The bearing will slide out.
>pack the bearing, and reassemble.
I believe that is all of it.
Hope this helps.
Blessings,
TRHOD
if your bearing slides out you need a new knuckle. they are pressed in and should fit very snug.
that is what i was thinking..i replaced my left front last year and just replaced both sides last week and i had to beat both out...
QUOTE ("wvforeman":1wi48mn8)
thats correct, thats how they should be.that is what i was thinking..i replaced my left front last year and just replaced both sides last week and i had to beat both out...
i never removed the shocks either,,that seems like alot of work to get them back in place when you go to put it all back together..
Yup, had to beat mine out, too. Didn't have to remove the shock either.
I took the old bearing and ground the outer race down to use it to carefully drive the new bearing in once I got the new bearing flush with the knuckle. I have some custom made bearing drivers designed for Ford inner and outer wheel bearing races that worked great until it was flush.
Cheers,
Mikey
I took the old bearing and ground the outer race down to use it to carefully drive the new bearing in once I got the new bearing flush with the knuckle. I have some custom made bearing drivers designed for Ford inner and outer wheel bearing races that worked great until it was flush.
Cheers,
Mikey
I guess changin' bearings seems harder than what it really is. My luck they
would be so stuck in there, i would end up breakin' somethin' else tryin' to
get them out.
would be so stuck in there, i would end up breakin' somethin' else tryin' to
get them out.
Nawww! Yours is a lot newer and the bearing came out easily on my old 98. Original owner lives next door and he's never changed 'em.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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