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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi first post here! I have a 01 Foreman ES, one of the front wheel bearings was really loose, replaced the bearing, still loose. The new bearing fit tight in the knuckle, and the hub had a tiny bit of play but when you put it together you can move the wheel quite a bit at 12 and 6 o'clock. I'm guessing I'm looking at a hub (flange)?
 

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Double check to make sure that the play you feel isn't coming from the balljoints.That's strange that you'd still have play from a new wheel bearing,even if the hub was worn that much you would've seen that when you were putting it back together.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No it's definitely not the ball joints. The hub is a tiny bit loose on the bearing when you put it back in. When you get it all together the wheel moves quite a bit. I would think it should be a press fit, like a car.Thanks.
 

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wheel bearings

hi double check your bolts when tightening everything back up . had a friend who did this and found out the ball joint bolt was tighten but not enough because as he was tightening it up the whole ball joint kept turning in circles along with the bolt . he didnt relize it till he double checked and had to hold the ball joint in place with pliers to tighten it up the rest of the way , but be careful not to damage the protective boot when doing this . hope this may help ,if not these guys are good on this site and im sure someone will know !!!!
 

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the shop manual says to tighten the axle nut to 58 ft. lbs. when re-installing new bearings. i've found i need to make it really tight, then back it off about an eighth of a turn, and put the cotter pin in. i guess that sets the bearings in place. i seem to go through front wheel bearings often ( apparently, utility quads weren't designed for wheelies & jumping?) so it's become part of my annual maintenance.
 

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The shop manual also says not to back off on the nut once you reach the 58 Ft Lbs of torque. If the slots in the Castle nut dont line up with the hole in the spindle, then tighten it just a little more to line up the holes to install the cotter pin.
 

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QUOTE ("Sparkey":1li38c4d)
The shop manual also says not to back off on the nut once you reach the 58 Ft Lbs of torque. If the slots in the Castle nut dont line up with the hole in the spindle, then tighten it just a little more to line up the holes to install the cotter pin.
when i crank mine down tight, there is drag on the wheel. i back it off to allow it to spin freely.
 

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QUOTE ("10sec440":12jg54g6)
Hi first post here! I have a 01 Foreman ES, one of the front wheel bearings was really loose, replaced the bearing, still loose. The new bearing fit tight in the knuckle, and the hub had a tiny bit of play but when you put it together you can move the wheel quite a bit at 12 and 6 o'clock. I'm guessing I'm looking at a hub (flange)?

Finally someone who has the same problem I do. I replaced my front left wheel bearing, put it back together and still have the same amount of play as the old bearing. Actually after inspecting the old bearing, I found out there was nothing wrong. I thought maybe I had missed something, took it to the Hond shop, they told me to replace the bad wheel bearing, i told them the bearing was new. They stand there with nothing to say. he check tie rods, ball joints and anything he could on that side and couldn't find anything wrong, so go figure.
 

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I had the same problem and replaced the bearing. There is still a bit of play and I know that it is coming from the ball joints.

A very small movement in the ball joints will cause a larger movement in the wheel.

It can be difficult to detect movement in the ball joint, any movement is bad movement.

Cheers,

Steve
 

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I had a problem that appeared to be my front wheel bearings and it wound up being my lower shock bushing. The lower bushing on the 1998 to I think around 2003 are made up of four pieces. I just rebuilt mine a few weeks ago.
 
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