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What NOT to do with wheel spacers...

1944 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Mudslinger70
I am the type of person that learns things the hard way. I am also the type of person who likes to try to save people from making the same mistakes that I have.

I've learned a lot about spacers in the past couple of weeks and would like to share my new found knowledge to keep people from wasting time and money.

1st off I'd like to say that with a lift kit on your bike, spacers are very nice and makes the bike less likely to tip.

I bought some spacers that were CNCed from one solid piece of aluminum. They are very well made, but I want to give you guys some warnings...

They cover your front drum brake adjustment hole, and you need to remove the rubber grommet from the hole to mount the spacers. This allows muddy water in your drums which reduces brake life. It also makes it a pain to adjust your brakes. I thought hey-no big deal-just take off the wheels and adjust the brakes.

Well, that leads to the next warning. You only need to SNUG the bolt that secures this type of spacer. I must have overtightened the nuts, which caused the aluminum to deform just enough for the spacer to lock onto the stock wheel studs. I couldn't get them off. I'm going to have to remove the whole outer drum and drive the studs out if I want them off. That will probably destroy the stock studs.

Next up are the "stand-off" type of spacers that simply screw to each stock wheel stud. No problems with the front brake adjuster with these. No problems with them getting "locked" onto your factory studs, either. I must have overtightened the conical nuts on the ends of the spacer studs when mounting the OEM rims, because when I took them off today to swap rims, the OEM nuts galled the spacers' threads. I think I can salvage them by chasing them with a 10mm x 1.25 die.


I hope I have saved someone some grief.
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just dont under tighten or you'll look like this
i have the solid aluminum
You don't have to remove the red rubber plugs. Just cut of the stem & cap. Leave the plug in the hole. That is what I did when I put on ITP Delta rims on my 350.
I bought a 10x1.25mm tap and die, chased all the boogered up threads and now everything is good to go.

I put the solid aluminum spacers on the rear of my and the wife's quads, and put the stand off type on the fronts to where you can still adjust the brakes without removing the wheel or spacer, plus you don't have to cut the red plug.

One thing I know now - I ran for about two weeks without the plugs in and it just about wiped out the brake pads in that short amount of time.
QUOTE ("aastelly":1sjxbvnl)
just dont under tighten or you'll look like this
i have the solid aluminum
Ouch! That looks like a bad day there.
Oh yeah - I forgot to mention...

I had to remove the whole outer drum to get the solid aluminum spacers off the front.

I drove the OEM wheel studs out with a punch to remove the spacer.

It didn't hurt a thing. I reinstalled the same studs and then mounted the stand off type spacers on the front. Everything is good to go.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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