What kind of Oil?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
QUOTE ("AllHonda")
I figure it costs about $8 more a year at the most to use the Honda oil. Not all that much. I am sure there are other Cheaper oils around, but the savings is not enough to me to justify the risk. That's just my opinion. I am sure some of the other oils would work fine.
To save about $1.50 you risk expensive engine damage. Pretty good deal.
I figure it costs about $8 more a year at the most to use the Honda oil. Not all that much. I am sure there are other Cheaper oils around, but the savings is not enough to me to justify the risk. That's just my opinion. I am sure some of the other oils would work fine.
Any idea who makes the "Honda Oil" ? Or do you think Honda makes there own? Think about it. Not saying Castrol makes it but you can bet your ass a major manufacturer does. What do you think is in your bike for an engine? Something that was meant for F1 ? Its a MotorCycle engine. I'd say your pretty safe with a major brand of oil that is wet clutch approved. $8 a bottle for the Honda name or $3 a bottle at Walmart for the same stuff.
Joined
·
8 Posts
your exactly right on with that one brother. Never herd of a honda refinery....lol!
QUOTE ("AllHonda")
Honda Oil around here is about 3.50 a bottle. I don't save but at the most fifty or maybe 75 cents a quart. Depending on how often you change your oil you just dont save all that much. I doubt honda makes their own oil. I am sure they have it blended to their specs by a major company and I am sure some of the other oils are as good. All I am saying is you dont save but maybe $8 a year by using cheaper oil.
Joined
·
12 Posts
Mechanic at the honda shop told me as long as it doesn't say energy conforming on it your safe . 10/30 says energy conforming 10/40 doesn't .
I've been running Amsoil 10W40 synthetic (MCF-01) in both my bikes since first oil change. Love the stuff. Some say a little pricey, but IMHO well worth it. It does cost more per quart that other oils, but the drain interval is extended w/ Amsoil, making the price difference even out. Pay a little now or a lot later.
Blessings,
Blessings,
Synthetic is very bad ..
it lets the clutch slip to much and over heats .
cost me 1000 to fix them. plus it runs hotter as well . my oil cooler
almost never came on and the dip stick after a few hours of mudding was to hot to handle.
it took me 2 years to learn this one ... keep away from synthetic ..
even your honda deal will tell you that. wish i would have asked first
i run 10w 40 castrol .. its what my honda dealer used after i got the work done
it lets the clutch slip to much and over heats .
cost me 1000 to fix them. plus it runs hotter as well . my oil cooler
almost never came on and the dip stick after a few hours of mudding was to hot to handle.
it took me 2 years to learn this one ... keep away from synthetic ..
even your honda deal will tell you that. wish i would have asked first
i run 10w 40 castrol .. its what my honda dealer used after i got the work done
well was true for me ..
i have a 450ES and it just stopped moving .. still ran
took it apart and the friction clutch was burnt and warped ..
took the parts in to the dealer and he knew with out me telling him that
i was running synthetic oil ... had to replace the friction clutch
and drive gear 1000.00 dollars with labour
True story have pics to prove it
i have a 450ES and it just stopped moving .. still ran
took it apart and the friction clutch was burnt and warped ..
took the parts in to the dealer and he knew with out me telling him that
i was running synthetic oil ... had to replace the friction clutch
and drive gear 1000.00 dollars with labour
True story have pics to prove it
Joined
·
5 Posts
the only oil
amsoil no question, is the only oil i run , i've tried all others and i've never smoked a motor on amsoil
amsoil no question, is the only oil i run , i've tried all others and i've never smoked a motor on amsoil
Check this out, big discussion from the Rubicon board, let me know if you have any questions.
<a href="http://www.hondaforeman.com/phpBB2/view" target="_blank">http://www.hondaforeman.com/phpBB2/view ... thetic+oil</a>
<a href="http://www.hondaforeman.com/phpBB2/view" target="_blank">http://www.hondaforeman.com/phpBB2/view ... thetic+oil</a>
Joined
·
317 Posts
I guess the answer to the question of which oil to use is....no one really knows.....sounds like a matter of preference. I have never heard of problems with people using Honda spec oil from the dealer and the cost of this important item is pretty low compared to the rest of the stuff we bolt to our bikes.
Joined
·
428 Posts
Mobil makes the stock honda oil and its not synthetic if you are seeing it for $5 or less. Up here in Canada, they have honda synthetic/normal oil right on the shelf side-by-side at the honda shop. So synthetic oil will not harm your engine...as long as it has the WET CLUTCH CERTIFICATION.
Its the wet clutch certification that is the absolute key. If it doesn't have it I wouldn't put it in. Some opinions about energy conserving may/may not be true, but for me, oil is the absolute life blood of these air-cooled engines, and isn't worth the risk. Oil does everything; lubricate moving parts, cool the engine and allow for proper clutch operation. We spend $100-1000's on tires, pipes, filters, axles etc and yet quibble about a low dollar item that if missing the correct additives causes more damage than everything else, and no proper running engine=no fun.
Look at it this way, you spend more on gas than you do for oil during its oil change interval...to me, no contest.
Certified oil, synthetic/normal oil both have their advantages. Normal oil is inexpensive and can facilitate more frequent changes & good for intermediate climates. Synthetic oil has much better high and low temperature protection. Up here in Canada, its synthetic all year around. Easy cranking in sub-zero temps & if you are mudding, don't have alot of airflow around the engine, or are in hot climate, I wouldn't use anything but synthetic. Look at Redline, Amsoil, its found everywhere-even on-line, its wet clutch certified, and guaranteed, if you talk to any racer they have it in their engine.
Put the oil designated and wet clutch certified for the engine whether normal/synthetic flavors, and no worries..... My .02
Its the wet clutch certification that is the absolute key. If it doesn't have it I wouldn't put it in. Some opinions about energy conserving may/may not be true, but for me, oil is the absolute life blood of these air-cooled engines, and isn't worth the risk. Oil does everything; lubricate moving parts, cool the engine and allow for proper clutch operation. We spend $100-1000's on tires, pipes, filters, axles etc and yet quibble about a low dollar item that if missing the correct additives causes more damage than everything else, and no proper running engine=no fun.
Look at it this way, you spend more on gas than you do for oil during its oil change interval...to me, no contest.
Certified oil, synthetic/normal oil both have their advantages. Normal oil is inexpensive and can facilitate more frequent changes & good for intermediate climates. Synthetic oil has much better high and low temperature protection. Up here in Canada, its synthetic all year around. Easy cranking in sub-zero temps & if you are mudding, don't have alot of airflow around the engine, or are in hot climate, I wouldn't use anything but synthetic. Look at Redline, Amsoil, its found everywhere-even on-line, its wet clutch certified, and guaranteed, if you talk to any racer they have it in their engine.
Put the oil designated and wet clutch certified for the engine whether normal/synthetic flavors, and no worries..... My .02
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
