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I took my Foreman to Rocky Creek this weekend and everytime I got in water up to the bottom of the seat, the cylinder filled up. The airbox was dry both times so I don't believe it was coming in the intake. I believe it was getting in through the exhaust. Has anyone else seen this or had this issue? I dont really want to snorkel my exhaust but I can't keep getting pulled outta the muck by that Polaris 425! Any and all help is appreciated!
 

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Are you sure you were getting water in the cylinder? As long as your motor is running no water should enter through the exhaust. Maybe just some water in the carb? If I were you, I would reroute the 2 carb vent lines to the handle bars, and when you are going in the water, shove a stick, screw, golf tee, or anything else that will fit in the carb drain tube. And put some die electric grease in the sparkplug boot. You should be fine in seat deep water then.
 

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Definately water in the cylinder. Had to be towed out and pull the plug. I found out useful info on this, dont stand in front of the spark plug hole when cranking it over unless you want a shower
 

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Yeah thats a sure fire way to get a little shower. I really cant imagine it getting in from the exhaust unless it stalled out in the water. And if the air box is dry its not getting in from there. Strange.
 

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If you try to crank the bike with the exhaust under water, if the exhaust valve opens first it can suck water into the cylinder. Always get the pipe out of the water before you try to turn it over.
 

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I'm going to change the vent lines tonight or tomorrow and give it a try this weekend. I think you guys are onto something there. I had to drain the carb the 2nd time I went swimming....
 

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i cant wait to go swimming this weekend. All the rain the past 2 days it should be great. lmao
 

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under the air filter on foremans is a breather filter that that sucks in water directly to the Ls crankcase,you can see the hose that connects to the ESP cover.check to make sure the clamp is tight,i put a thick tie wrap on this very tight.I have seen water enter airbox and hydrolock cyl.this way and not even wet the main air filter because its up way heigher,that hose is a straight shot to internal engine.Like Rob said,try putting small screw in float drain hose.I went as far as eliminating the pullstart housing with the HL leakshield cover.At 50 hours there was a ton of rust and signs of water that sat in engine right there,they say when the seal that is located there starts to fail you get water in the oil in small amount it doesnt show on the dipstick.This explains the new hondas you see sometimes already smoking when used in alot of water........
 

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Not trying to steal the thread or anything but it is related

Never done this before.. On my 500 what lines need to be extended and what one needs to be plugged in the water? What do I extend them with?

Some pointers please.

And where do I find this die electric grease everyone is always talking about?
 

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Vacuum or windshield waher fluid tubing of the same size as your stock tubing, I dont remember off hand the exact size. You will want to extend your front and rear differential, and front and rear brake tubing, also your fan has one. you can tee most of those together to make it easier. Most important is to extend your carb vent tubes on the top of the carb. And you will want to put a screw in your carb drain tube that hangs from the carb straight down, it will have a check valve in it.
More great tips here <a href="http://www.triangleatv.com/Tips-Page.html" target="_blank">http://www.triangleatv.com/Tips-Page.html</a>

You can get the dielectric grease at any autoparts store, maybe even walmart.

Hope that helps some.
 

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Ok I can understand the front and rear differential, and extend your carb vent tubes but why the front and rear brake tubing? Why does it even have tubing?.. Fan also?

Where can I find all these now to extend them? Are they all ran together to one location or are they spread out over the entire bike?

I dont do alot of water or really really deap mud but I want to get this thing preped for anything I might want to throw at it while Im out on the trail.

Or, are they already high enough where if I dont snorkle it want matter? B/c I dont see a need for a snorkle anytime soon b/c I dont PLAN on going that deep.. but do these vents need to be relocated higher than they sit now even with no snorkle?
 

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Most of these are breathers/vents.Located on the rear drum of the brakes is a hose,carbs have vents also on it,ft and rear diff have one each(usually on top) on them,fan has a drain hose,airbox has a drain plug on the bottom.Alot of the factory ones are ran to the headlight pod or ran into the frame up high.The foremans are rigged very well from the factory for occasionally going to the bottom of the fender flares in water for fast and short dips...YOU SHOULD BE FINE IN MY OPINOIN,BUY A LIFT KIT AND BIGGER THAN OEM TIRES AND THE WHOLE ATV GOES UP 2-3 INCHES!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Farudan,
Your bike is probably dieing out because of the spark plug getting wet or water getting into the carb bowl through the overflow/drain. Plug the drain and grease the plug boot. The water is getting into your cylinder after the bike dies. It is not what's causing it to die.

Truegrit,
If your bike is dead under water, you are better off raising the front end before cranking it over. Raising the front keeps air trapped in the exhaust pipe and cylinder. Raising the rear (a common mistake) allows the air to flow out and the water to run into the cylinder. By always keeping the front end up you can usually keep it dry! BTW, bump the starter lightly if you suspect a hydrolocked condition.
 
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