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Valve Adjustment on a Foreman 500

173372 Views 80 Replies 47 Participants Last post by  wydglide
OK here's the finished product (I think).

Disclaimer: is not responsible for any damage caused to you or your bike.

Honda Foreman 500 Valve Adjustment

Tools needed:
1) Flat head screwdriver
2) Phillips head screwdriver
3) 10mm box wrench
4) 10mm socket with extension
5) 24mm socket or box wrench (not a perfect fit, but it works)
6) Feeler gauge
7) spark plug wrench

In order to get to the valves you must remove the gas tank and all those plastic shrouds and covers..

The first step is to remove the seat and the stock intake snorkel. There is one plastic Phillips head screw you remove and the snorkel just pulls out of the airbox with a tug.

Next you need to pull off the rubber heat shield over the carburetor. Use the blade screwdriver to pull out the 2 plastic rivets (circled in red), and then pull the cover off the tab (in blue).

The next step is to pull off the gas tank shrouds. Pull out the plastic rivets with the blade screwdriver again, there should be 4 on the right side and 5 on the left. Leave the two rivets on the back of the gas tank shroud in place, it will be easier to remove and reinstall the fenders. There are also two 10mm bolts you must remove. Rivets in red, bolts in blue.

When you remove the fenders the gas cap needs to be removed, also there is a plastic tab you must pull out of a rubber grommet. It’s very hard to pull out, so be careful not to bend or break it as you are removing it.

Moving along now, the gas tank is ready to be pulled out. Pull off the two rubber straps located at the rear of the tank, one on each side:

Then remove the two 10mm screws from underneath the headlight pod:

Now there are two hooks on the front of the gas tank that are holding wires, bend them out and remove the wires. Lift up on the tank slightly and pull it back a few inches. Now you need to unplug the fuel level indicator wire located just in front of the accessory outlet (circled in red). Pull the small tab outwards to release the plug (in blue):

Now you can turn the gas tank around and set it on top of the airbox.

Remove the plastic cover underneath the gas tank by pulling it up and moving the throttle and choke cables. There are two rubber pieces attached to this that are attached by a tab on each side. Also be sure to release the zip tie on the right side framerail.

Finally we can see the engine! By now it’s time to take a break and stare at the beauty of it, after all this is really the only time you can easily see all the major engine components of the new Foremans:

Use the large 24mm socket to remove the valve inspection covers.

The next step is to remove the spark plug. This is to relieve the compression in the engine when you get it to top dead center.

Once you have the engine at top dead center it is finally time to check those valves. Using the .006in or .15mm size insert the feeler between the valve spring and the rocker arm. It should slide in fairly easily with just a slight drag. Most likely it won’t though.

Using a 10mm box wrench loosen the small nut.

Insert the feeler gauge and with the blade screwdriver turn the adjuster slightly to the right to tighten, or the left to loosen. It should barely have to move. While you slowly twist it wiggle the feeler gauge until you feel it start to drag. Again, you should just feel the metal dragging very slightly. I could not do this and take a photo at the same time. Sorry!

The next step is to tighten that nut back up. Make sure to keep a screwdriver on the adjuster and hold it steady as you tighten the nut. Afterwards check the clearance again with your feeler gauge.

Now repeat the process on the other valve.

Replace the two covers for the inspection holes and start the ATV. If it sounds good then start putting it back together, if it ticks than something is loose
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Is this the same as on a 450?
ChevyNc, I don't recall the location of the valve inspection holes on the 450 as I never looked at my old one. Also, I beleive the valve clearances are probably different. Mabye someone else can shed some light on this subject.
yeah no holes on a 450, you need to remove the valve cover.
Excellent work King!
Very Nice Great Job. I like your feeler gauge, much nicer then mine, what kind is it and where did ya get it?
QUOTE ("Hondude":1l02lvgs)
Very Nice Great Job. I like your feeler gauge, much nicer then mine, what kind is it and where did ya get it?
Honestly, I really have no idea! Most of the tools are my dad's, he has aquired alot of them over time from my relatives and people he has done contracting work for. I'm pretty sure that particular piece was found in my Aunt's neighbor's tool chest after he passed away a few years ago. Funny how these things turn up huh? I also have a few sets of feelers that are the pocket knife style, and I usually just bend those 90* and then bend em back best I can. That is the only feeler guage I have ever seen like that and it just so happens to be the correct size.

Hey, you asked!

Oh and thanks for the compliments guys, I had nothin better to do this morning so spending an extra hour or so with my Foreman in the garage was actually fun for me (except for it being 34*F outside...). I look forward to making some more how-to's if/when the time comes around.
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Nice Tech!

I to spend alot of the day with the foreman.

I need to do a Valve Adjustment also. The dealer "claims" they did it last service but I call BS
Good job on the write -up! Nice pictures too.Thanks.
Is there a positive indication of the engine being in TDC?? Does it matter is it is in TDC on the intake or exhaust stroke? I have always found TDC by sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and feel the piston move. Just wondering if there was some other, more technical way of doing it. Thanks!!
That's how I always do it!
Valve Adjustment

I took the article that King wrote and made a pdf file if anyone needs it. It makes it easier to print out. Thanks King.. Great article.

Im with Rov. Is there a timing mark like the Rubicon, where the intake valve has to be closed and picton comes up to true TDC and the "T" lined up in the timing hole. Is this the proper way or can you do it in either stroke as long as the piston is all the way up and either the exhaust or intake valve is closed?

I did mine last night and it sounds alot better. I think the dealer screwed me when they did it, cause it like daylight and dark the difference in the noise coming from the rockers rattling. I did take out the allen head timing inspection screw(on the brake lever side) and got the "T" lined up in the whole with the intake valve closed (TDC). and mine sounds alot better. King's post was very precise and my 4 year old could have done it. Thanks
Good work but ill still more comfortable having the dealership do it!!!! What is a good price to do that one place told me 250 dollars and another place told me 60-100 that is a big difference... so if ne one has payed to have one done let me know and hoe often should u get this done?

The manual says to put everything back together with new 0 rings... Do yall do this or is it a waist?
QUOTE ("heavy d hit56":5hfyhvn5)
Good work but ill still more comfortable having the dealership do it!!!! What is a good price to do that one place told me 250 dollars and another place told me 60-100 that is a big difference... so if ne one has payed to have one done let me know and hoe often should u get this done?
Just got through having my first 20 hour/100 mile service which includes valve adjustment, oil change and tranny adjustments. Cost me $138. Don't know how much for the actual valve adjustment however.
cool thanks ....
I this procedure the same for a 2005 Rubicon?

Valve clearance?
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