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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, Thought i would update everyone and ask for more help. I took the front clutch cover off and looked at the cam chain and cam chain tensioner. Well the Cam Chain tensioner isnt even touching the tensioner arm. There is about and inch of gap between the tensioner and the tensioner arm. So the chain was just slapping making the ticking noise. There is no spring tension on the tensnioner as i pushed on it trying to get it to come down. It looks as i have to pull the cylinder off to get the tensioner out. This is on a 04 honda foreman ES. I finally narrowed it down to that i have to take the front clutch cover off to take a look. All help would be apreciated. Thanks all.
 

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yes the cylinder does have to come off to get the tensioner out, but before you pulling everything aparts. Take the fuel tank and sheild off, there is a hole through the cylinder fins for a long screwdriver to go through for raising the tensioner. You cannot move it by hand, you will need a long phillip and flatblade screwdriver to raise the tensioner. This will tell you if it is still working proper, before you start spending money on something that is not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I seen the holes you are talking about, but do they go through the head? Is it possible to stick the screw driver down through everything with out removing the head? I could send you a picture of the tensioner not touching the arm. I took pictures of everything i took apart. You can clearly see what i am talking about. There is a gap between the tensioner and the tensioner arm that is about and inch from contacting each other. Thanks for the reply.
 

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you can get to it without removing the head. the tensioner doesn't go out far, your timing chain is stretched out so far that the tensioner can not reach it. most of the time when they are run like that to long the chain will beat the mess out of the tensioner and usually knocks the bottom out of it or breaks the spring in it.

I have always used DID timing chains, they are half the price of the factory chains.
 

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HM is right about the exhaust, that one slipped my mine, old age I guess

also HM why should he replace a $75+ part and a $50 topend gks set if its not broke? Just inspect it first to see if it needs replaced.
 

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HM you have a good point. But I will stick with my shade tree method. If I feel it is working proper than I will just replace the chain and cover gks.

I know if it where brought into the honda shop, they would recomend that it be changed along with the timing chain at the owners expense.

Does honda make a tool to check the spring load on the tensioner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was wondering just what to replace. Chain tensioner and cam chain also? And is the chain tensioner ok of is the chain just stretched that much that it no longer can adjust that far? It only has 1500miles on it and started making that ticking noise at 1400. That sounds a little early to me. Again thanks for all the replies. It sure would be easy if all i had to do was put the chain in but i want it right too.
 

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old you will have to make that choice, I know thats not what you wanted to hear. I said above what I would do and HM has some good points as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yea, i know im wondering how much to do. So i have to use and impact on the clutch nuts to remove them to get to the chain? The way i see it i have to take both clutches off toget at it. Also do you have to remove both gears to get the chain off and on? Is there any special tools i will need? I have a lot of tools but you know, never enough. Also i read where anti-seiz is your freind. Is it ok to put anti-siez on the front cover bolts? I did anyway. tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
From what i am learning you wouldnt have to pull the head and cylinder to replace the timing chain BUT the tensioner lies under the cylinder and would have to pull them to change the tensioner.
 

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old I responded to your email and by the picture the tensioner spring is broke, so you know what that means. A puller will be needed to get the centrif. clutch out and yes both clutch kits need to come out. everything else is just basic hand tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yes, i have a shop manual, i have the Foreman 1998-2003 manual. My honda is a 2004. I hope it is the same. It says in the manual to replace the lock nut on the centrifugal clutch. Has anyone reused these? It has been cold and snowy here so i havent started the removal of clutches yet. Any tips and tricks are appreciated.
 

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the manual you have will work just fine. I have reused them, only because the parts house didn't have any in stock. I have had no problems with them. The centrif clutch is the only part that requires a puller and I told you what I use. Just make sure to stuff some rags around the crank once you get it apart to eliminate something fallen in the motor.
 
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