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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, today i sunk my rubicon, im pretty sure itll end up being ok, it does run, but the oil is completly milky, ive drained the box, carb, and exhaust, then i drained the oil, and at this point ive changed it out twice, and its still completly milky, im going to continue to change it out, but do you guys refill it with the full 5 quarts like required , because this is gonna get pricy or can i flush it out with less, but ill do the 5 quarts each flush if need be...how many times do you think this will take, ive seen some guys say 8 times or so on here...and id appreciate any other advice if you have any

thanks
 

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I've never sunk any ATV, so I can't help you with whether you need to fill it up or not to flush it, I just thought I'd remind you that you may want to consider recycling the oil you use to flush it...with the current situations we are having, it's best not to waste any that you don't need lol.
 

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I would fill it up full each time. I don't see how it can be good running the engine and tranny without them having enough oil.
 

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got to the dollar store and pick up some oil there. Shouldn't cost you more than a few bucks and no longer than your running it through the engine you shouldn't hurt anything. No need in dumping in expensive honda oil just to dump it 5 mins later.
 

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ya just get the cheapest stuff you can find. it took me about 7 changes the only time i've drounded mine.

i've read that marvel mystery oil helps alot. i think you add about 1/3 of the bottle with each change and run about 3-5 min each time. they say that stuff works miracles. just leave your old oil filter in until everything is good and clean.
 

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I would definately use the cheapest oil you can find. I'd also change the filter every-other change of oil. I wouldn't continue to use the same oil filter until it clears up. I've sunk mine when it was about 6months old. It made me sick! But after about 5 changes, it cleared back up and has ran great ever since. Getting water in them is not that big a problem... Getting water in it, letting it die, then trying to start it under water... Now there's a problem!!!!
 

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QUOTE ("Sage6058":dlmladfu)
... Getting water in it, letting it die, then trying to start it under water... Now there's a problem!!!!
yep, never done it but ive seen it done. i told the guy not to try to start it back and of course he tried. it was a susucki, motor was going to have to be rebuilt so he just traded it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks guys, well after doing about 8-9 full changes, the oil is draining cystral clear, i just used cheap crap, now ill put the good stuff in it, and i noticed it seemed to be starving for fuel when i gave it throttle so i opened the carb and it had all crap in it, so i cleaned that out and its running as good as before, i also drained the gas to be safe and refilled, and i think some went in the coolant resorvior tank through that vent hose, but it didnt suck it from the resorvoir into the actual system so i just drained the resorvior and refilled, what do you guys think about the diffs? i didnt get to checking those yet...but it looks like ill be good for this weekend, what a job...and a ton of money in oil etc, im never going deep again..ill let another idiot try it first haha, and if its the least bit deep, forget it...in myopinion its not worth 2 minutes of fun for hours of work and a lot of money..
 

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QUOTE ("chevy2500hd6L":37gyfvt0)
...in myopinion its not worth 2 minutes of fun for hours of work and a lot of money..
sure it is, you just have to do a few things in order to protect yourself from water and the first sign that it is getting water to shut it down. there are plenty of ways to waterproof and minimize your chances of getting it wet, just check around the site. everyone on her is very helpful.

definately check your gear and dif boxes. they are both very slow drainers i would let it sit over night and then refill and drive in 4 for about 15 min and check again.

t
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well ya your right, if its properly setup, snorkel, rerun your vents etc, you can be fine, but as long as im using the stock vents and intake etc im staying out of the deep, lol..

and yes thats the last thing i gotta check, they both have drains and refill plugs? can i just open the fill plug and stick something in there and see what color the fluid is? any chance of them being ok, or is it almost positive they need new fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
guys i have some questions and i feel like an idiot, but hopefully i end up being ok here... well.......i should of read the manual..i didnt know there was 2 drains plus the filter, i didnt know about the crankcase oil drain... i only ever drained the other drain plus the filter, but all the oil goes thru the entire system, correct? so by flushing the engine with oil and just draining the one plug plus the filter, i still should of got all the water out correct? it just probably took me more changes (9 i think) but once i discovered the crankcase drain, i opened that and clean new oil came out, clean oil came out of the 2 drains and filter.. so seeming to be in good shape i went ahead and put in a brand new filter and 5 quarts of the good honda stuff, however, it doesnt read where it should be on the dipstick, its not between the 2 marks, its a little ways below the lower mark , i know it requires 5.2 for the full change but is it really the .2 thats making it read low? also its very hard to read the level, is it just because the oil is so clean, its a very very light brown...it looked darker coming out of the bottle...

also the last thing i had to check was the diffs...however when i opened the rear fill plug..i see nothing and it appears to be bone dry? this has me concerned, or did the vent just puke everything out? i didnt check the front yet...

sorry for the rambling..
 

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I don't think the rear diff is supposed to have that much oil in it. My friend bought a new Rancher, and he checked all the fluids after a ride, and freaked out when he saw that the rear diff appeared to be empty (very low compared to what he expected). He filled it up to the top, and said something like "i better check the manual real quick before I ride it again"...he checked it, and saw that it was at the proper level to begin with. I know this doesn't give you a definite answer to your question, but it's something to think about...your diff may seem dry, but actually have the proper amount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok that could very well be it..i guess because when its spinning around, it sloshes it all around so it doesnt need to be high...i know my truck you dont fill it near the top...how do you for sure check the level? how do you know if its at the right level, theres no dipstick or anything? should i just drain both diffs to be safe and then fill with exactly whats said to be used?

but my main concerns are with the oil and all that i mentioned, any comment on that?
 

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chevy,

are you talking about the engine oil? if so and speaking on my 05 foreman. the oil needs to be warmed, run about 5 min, then check the dipstick. DO NOT screw it in only put it in to the threads and the oil should be between the two marks. this is on the foreman and is probably the same as the rubicon. check you manual it should say for sure.
 

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QUOTE ("chevy2500hd6L":3k3vu0fi)
ok that could very well be it..i guess because when its spinning around, it sloshes it all around so it doesnt need to be high...i know my truck you dont fill it near the top...how do you for sure check the level? how do you know if its at the right level, theres no dipstick or anything? should i just drain both diffs to be safe and then fill with exactly whats said to be used?

but my main concerns are with the oil and all that i mentioned, any comment on that?
front there is a fill check bolt on top. fill to the top of the hole. for the rear there is a fill bolt and a check bolt that is on the opposite side. if you remove both i fill slowly til it starts to run out of the check bolt then let any excess run out. then bolt her back up. don't over tighten these bolts they will freeze up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks a lot, that helps me with the diffs..

and...

yes, thats exactly what i did, and its reading low, but i really reallyyy flushed it all well, so maybe i just need to add a little, i dont have any more of the good stuff here, but it wont take much to get it to the right level, maybe half a quart or less im guessing and any comment on the 2 oil drain thing, did i do it ok? i mean it did drain clean out of all the 2 drains and filter, once i discovered the 2nd drain... but im just concerned i was flushing the engine using just the filter and one drain...but like i said the oil goes thru the whole system, its not seperate compartments, correct? so it probably just took me longer to flush with just the one drain...???
 

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my foreman doesn't have but one drain plug for the motor oil. i know the rubicon uses the same oil for the honamatic tranny. you'll probably be fine. after running your engine for a few just make sure to check the oil again for any sign of water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok, in the manual it says the one is the crankcase drain and the other is the oil drain...ive been running it, and the fluid is very clean, the only reason i went looking for another drain is because i opened the oil drain and not much seemed to come out at all... only 2 quarts came out, then i discovered the crankcase oil drain and another 3 quarts came out, i just found this interesting...because i did my first change ever on it like 75 miles ago and i only used the oil drain, and a lot more seemed to come out, i would definently say about 5 quarts and i filled it with 5 and it was at the perfect level...and during the whole flushing, it all seemed to come out thru the oil drain, just this once i noticed very little coming out of the oil drain, which is like i said why i went looking for another drain..
 

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One hole drains directly from the engine and the other drains directly from the tranny. I think this is what you were asking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
perhaps, lol? but ya i think so, one says its the crankcase oil drain and the other the engine oil drain, but all the same oil goes thruout the system, so im good, its perfectly clean, filled to the right level, diffs are done, gas was changed, carb was cleaned, coolant checked, im all good to go...runs like nothing happened

thanks
 
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