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About all front bearing work on ATV's is simular. Have you changed bearings before on another ATV? If not, you can do a search and find step by step instructions, using basic hand tools to do the job. You should allow yourself about 1-1/2 hrs per wheel (front) to install. Hope this helps.
 

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Getting them out is not hard, but is the more difficult part. They go in easier. Once you start, you will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
how does the bearing come out? I got the front wheel removed and can see the bearing just can`t tell if there anything around it due to mud
 

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take the knuckle off so that you can get to the back side of the bearings pull the front and rear dust seals out there is a ridge that the bearing set against in the back like in a car and a snap ring in the front remove the snap ring and knock out the bearings not that long a task if you have a pickle fork it is alot easier to get the knuckle off
basically it kinda like replacing bearings in a truck or car
 

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I was able to do mine without taking the knuckle off. I unbolted the shock from the upper a-arm, loosened shock bolt at frame, just so I could move it easier. Then unbolted tie rod end. Took bolts out of lower a-arm and swung the whole assembly out which allowed me to work out the axle and let it rest over to the side. I then put the lower a-arm back in place and just slid the bolt in to hold it, also hook back up the shock. Now you can just spin the knuckle any way you need to. Just knock seals out, take out snap ring then turn knuckle around and I used a socket I had that was a little larger than the inner race and knocked bearing out. Put your new bearing in the freezer for a couple hours before you put it in. This will make it go in a lot easier. Also use marine grease, it's waterproof. I know my way seems to have a lot of steps, but I have no doubt that I could change my wheel bearing in about an hour now.
 

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some pics for you
In the first pic.take the nut off the lower ball joint and hit the knuckle with a hammer exactly where i show it.it will pop apart.you risk tearing the boot apart on the ball joint with a fork.lift the upper a-arm and swing the axle out of the knuckle.then take the upper ball joint apart the same way as you just did the lower.
in pic #2 swing the axle out of the way and tie it up with a zip tie or bungee so it does not come apart on you.if it does it makes your job harder.
In pic #3 remove the snap ring from the OUTSIDE of the knuckle after you remove the dust seals
#4 use a bearing or seal driver to knock the bearing out of the knuckle.if you don't have one use the appropriate size socket.
reassemble the same as you took it apart.install new grease seals tho as the old ones are most likely bad if the bearing is bad.add some grease to the new bearing but not so much as when you reassemble it it will push the seals out if there is too much grease.also put some grease on the inner seal lip where it rides on the axle.the pics are posted backwards so #1 is at the bottom of the post sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
got the bearing out now just got to get a new one. had any evr used a kit from all balls racing, from what i can find about them the bearing should be better tyhen a oem one.
 

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never heard of those but i know that the highlifter double sealed bearings are pretty good
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just pick up new bearing from all balls racing and i`m not sure on how they go in. does anyone know, can`t check the original because its in a dozen pieces.
 
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yeah i messed my rubber pieces up on my ball joints today using a ball joint fork.can you buy the rubber pieces seperately from honda shops or anywhere else????
 
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