That's a great write up, pics are always worth a 1000 words!
I have a question about the OEM clamps. Can they be reused? I am going to be purchasing a new set of boots for my 500 Foreman and they come with a new set of boot clamps/bands, but these require a special banding tool. The tool costs $25 and I will buy that tool if needed but if I can reuse the stock clamps I won't bother.
The stock clamps can be reused with the correct boots. Some aftermarket boots are thicker and the clamps won't work. If you do need the tool most automotive parts stores will rent them.
Hey...I have a question. I managed to pull the axle out of my '11 500 Foreman tonight...it literally took only 15 minutes, dead simple procedure.
I had no trouble removing the stock boot clamps, popped out the retained c-clip on the inner cv joint, removed the snap ring, but here is where I have some problems. I can't seem to remove the cage and race that is fitted on spline of the shaft end. Without being able to remove that piece I can't get the old boots off! From everything I have seen on Youtube and online, once the snap is removed the bearing cage and race should simply pull off with minimal effort. For the record the ball bearings came out after moving the joint a few different ways not sure if that was supposed to happen or not.
This is what I am talking about....I tried putting a open end wrench behind it and lightly tapping it for a second, and even thought about applying a bit of heat to it (but never) so I decided I better stop and ask someone first before I potentially could screw up my drive shaft/cv joint. It is pretty cold here tonight (around 10 F degrees ) and my garage isn't heated so I thought maybe that could have something to do with it... I brought the shaft into the house for the night, so any tips on how to remove this piece would really be appreciated!
Should I use the following tool to remove the race?
Some of the axles the cage has to be drove off after the snap ring is removed, they are just a really tight fit. I usually just sit it in the vice and drive the axle shaft through, it takes a little "pressure" to get it moving.
Oh, so do you mean I should let the axle sit in the vice, close the vice just so it barely touches the shaft and the race is basically sitting on the jaws, then tap the end of the shaft so it falls down through the race? Just wondering which way would be the best way to approach this without messing it up I am not a novice when it comes to hand tools but I know enough to ask someone with experience before I start wailing on it with a BFH
That's how I do it. I use a big punch in the center but once it starts moving it comes off decent. You will have to "press" it back on also. I just use a socket and hammer for that also.
That's how I do it. I use a big punch in the center but once it starts moving it comes off decent. You will have to "press" it back on also. I just use a socket and hammer for that also.
Cool, thanks for the reply... I kind of figured if I had to give it some force to come off I would have to do the reverse going back on, I have done the ol' socket trick before with gears, slow and steady wins the race B)
Fantastic write up! Im doing this on my foreman right now. I have one question. The cv boot kit that i bought comes with clamps. Should i use those or the oem ones?
Fantastic write up! Im doing this on my foreman right now. I have one question. The cv boot kit that i bought comes with clamps. Should i use those or the oem ones?
honestly wouldn't use anything but OEM boots and clamps the aftermarket stuff is no good the boots are to stiff and slide off the cv pretty easy and you need a special tool to tighten the clamps they gives with the aftermarket boots. try it with the OEM clamps
Has anyone tried using the metal type zip ties and a tightened instead of clamps to hold the boots down? I'm currently rebuilding a spare set of axles and I think I'm going to try them.
i am doing a front outer cv boot on a 2014 foreman 500 and the boot clamps aren't the same as the ones pictured ....they are the automotive style that you will need the crimper tool .......
The 450 oem clamps had a thicker piece to pull the clamp tight without a tool it was nice then hammered tabs down to lock it. was not bad to do , bought a couple snap rings for the insides just in case.
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