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Replacing CV axle boots

71K views 49 replies 21 participants last post by  Bill Johnson 
#1 ·
Some tools needed are a 22mm socket, 17mm socket or wrench, 14mm socket or wrench (x2), flat screw driver/knife, pliers, snap ring pliers and a hammer.

First step support the front of the machine off of the ground and remove the wheel. Then remove the axle nut. If you don't have an impact you might want to remove the center cap from the wheel and break the nut loose before lifting the machine off of the ground.



Remove the lower ball joint nut.



Remove the nut from the lower shock mounting bolt. Do not remove the bolt yet..



With holding some down pressure with one hand on the lower a-arm hit the lower a-arm where the ball joint goes through it. A couple good hits and it will pop off.



With the lower a-arm loose remove the shock bolt and rotate it up out of the way along with the rest of the parts. You can secure it with a strap or wire if needed (I'm just using a bungee to take the pic).



Now push the axle all the way in and give it a quick jerk outwards. It might take a couple tries to get it to come out.

With the axle out you can proceed to replace the boots. If replacing the outer boot on most machines the inner CV has to be taken apart to replace the outer boot. On this one both boots was bad.



Use a flat screwdriver/knife to pry open the holders on the boot clamps. I sharpened an old flat screwdriver and it works great, a gasket scraper also works well.



With the clamps loose pull the inboard boot up out of the way and use a screwdriver or pick and slide it into the groove of the CV cup and remove the clip.





Pull the rest of the CV out of the cup and there is a snap ring at the end of the axle shaft that has to be removed.





Set everything to the side to be cleaned if needed. If just replacing the inner boot clean up the parts and start going back together. If your after the outer boot....lets get it..

Remove the clamps from the outer boot and remove the boot (do not mix up the larger clamps from the inner and outer boots).



Clean, pack CV with grease and install the new boot. With the OEM clamps clamp it and bend the keepers over enough to hold it until later.



Install the inner small clamp and boot.



Install the inner CV parts and snap ring.



Install the CV into the cup (with grease) and install the clip.



Slide the boot in place and clamp it. With a hammer lightly tap the clamp towards the keeper to tighten it and then tap the keepers so they are tight.



Install the axle (line it up and push with steady pressure and it will go), set everything in place and start tightening up the nuts and bolts.



If I missed something or if anyone has more tips to add feel free to do so.
 
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#5 ·
wish this was around 4 years ago when i did mine for the 1st time but i got by with the manual lol great write up toodeep
 
#6 ·
great write up toodeep ......
mabey h22 can make it a sticky.....lol
i know you have a honda shop but whats youre opinon on aftermarket boots (moose) ? like ....dislike ...and why ?
i think that this question works in this thred
 
#9 ·
I use some aftermarket boots (mostly because they come with CV kits). The really thick/stiff ones I don't like. If something catches them sure they don't make a hole but instead it pops the whole boot away from the CV. I would prefer to have a small hole when out on the trail (a little super glue and you keep going if you catch it). Most of EPI boots are about like the stock as far as flexing, the Moose boots (like stated) are a little thicker but they still flex pretty good.

I used one other brand and I didn't like them at all (gambit power I think was the brand). They looked like a decent boot but didn't fit worth a crap. Everything was just a touch bigger and it looked like crap when clamped tight enough to keep stuff out.

Most of the time I use OEM unless I'm replacing a CV joint. I use the EPI joints because they are cheaper (saves the customer money), I can stock less parts (about every machine takes a different axle) and they have been holding up just as good.
 
#11 ·
There are a lot of threads that are not a sticky but yet are. I add the links to the FAQ sections so they are easy to find. It works better for post like Rich made on the rear bearing replacement that can be used on different machines since the process is the same.
 
#12 ·
Good job toodeep. I like the writeup.
 
#13 ·
Yeah, nice how to toodeep. Just a little late after doing mine last friday lol. Next time Ill save a couple steps.
 
#14 ·
Yours was one of the post that made me think about taking a few pics. I have been going to do it for years and never think about it until I was about done with a job. I got lucky and was slow (you clean your hands a lot to touch the camera) and finally got it done. The pictures make it a lot easier to understand than just typing a bunch of words.. lol
 
#15 ·
Really nice tutorial TooDeep....i am getting ready to do this and this walk through really helps...:unsure:
 
#16 ·
Install the axle (line it up and push with steady pressure and it will go),
Since looks like I'm gonna have to put in this other front diff, what exactly holds the axle into the diff on the diff end? Is there a spring loaded clip or something up in there, and if so, what holds it in place in the differential?
 
#18 ·
Might want to add to this write up that the axle halves and the insode of the boot where they get clamped should be free of grease, otherwise they could spin and rip the boot.

Excellent write up toodeep!!
 
#20 ·
Yep, I was undoing the bottom two aarms and pivoting the knuckle up on that top a arm bolt
 
#21 ·
Thanks

That's a great write up, pics are always worth a 1000 words!

I have a question about the OEM clamps. Can they be reused? I am going to be purchasing a new set of boots for my 500 Foreman and they come with a new set of boot clamps/bands, but these require a special banding tool. The tool costs $25 and I will buy that tool if needed but if I can reuse the stock clamps I won't bother.

Any suggestions?

Stan
 
#23 · (Edited)
Hey...I have a question. I managed to pull the axle out of my '11 500 Foreman tonight...it literally took only 15 minutes, dead simple procedure.

I had no trouble removing the stock boot clamps, popped out the retained c-clip on the inner cv joint, removed the snap ring, but here is where I have some problems. I can't seem to remove the cage and race that is fitted on spline of the shaft end. Without being able to remove that piece I can't get the old boots off! From everything I have seen on Youtube and online, once the snap is removed the bearing cage and race should simply pull off with minimal effort. For the record the ball bearings came out after moving the joint a few different ways not sure if that was supposed to happen or not.

This is what I am talking about....I tried putting a open end wrench behind it and lightly tapping it for a second, and even thought about applying a bit of heat to it (but never) so I decided I better stop and ask someone first before I potentially could screw up my drive shaft/cv joint. It is pretty cold here tonight (around 10 F degrees ) and my garage isn't heated so I thought maybe that could have something to do with it... I brought the shaft into the house for the night, so any tips on how to remove this piece would really be appreciated!




Should I use the following tool to remove the race?



Stan
 
#24 ·
Some of the axles the cage has to be drove off after the snap ring is removed, they are just a really tight fit. I usually just sit it in the vice and drive the axle shaft through, it takes a little "pressure" to get it moving.
 
#25 ·
Oh, so do you mean I should let the axle sit in the vice, close the vice just so it barely touches the shaft and the race is basically sitting on the jaws, then tap the end of the shaft so it falls down through the race? Just wondering which way would be the best way to approach this without messing it up :) I am not a novice when it comes to hand tools but I know enough to ask someone with experience before I start wailing on it with a BFH :)
 
#28 ·
Fantastic write up! Im doing this on my foreman right now. I have one question. The cv boot kit that i bought comes with clamps. Should i use those or the oem ones?
 
#29 ·
honestly wouldn't use anything but OEM boots and clamps the aftermarket stuff is no good the boots are to stiff and slide off the cv pretty easy and you need a special tool to tighten the clamps they gives with the aftermarket boots. try it with the OEM clamps
 
#30 ·
Ill try to re use them..but i dont know if they will last. I guess ill have to see.
 
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