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Thats real low miles. I replaced the lever cable awhile ago but thinking of getting another to finish this install. Is that lock nut and bolt the only adjust for the caliper? I hope mine isnt a dud cause nothing was happening when i pulled the cable arm forward

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That and cables are the only adjustments.
 

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That looks awesome!! I would love to run that unit. Is it quite the job to run hydraulic?
you have three choices on hydraulic brakes , 1) left front lever only , 2) foot pedal only , or 3) both foot and hand , I went for 3) , the foot pedal is hooked to a Honda Gold Wing 1000 master cylinder , the left hand brake is a Grizzly 700 master cylinder , the both are connected thru Fragola hose and fittings , and tee thru a TRX250 front brake hose splitter , then you need to cap the back of the caliper , they make caps but I never could find the correct one to fit , so I did a bit of modifying to the one I got off e-bay , I had a detailed thread of the build on HondaATV forum.com under 2000 TRX450SS fishfiles ---- that site went down the tubes when the format changed , just like this one is heading , not sure if the thread is still around
 

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Discussion Starter #25
you have three choices on hydraulic brakes , 1) left front lever only , 2) foot pedal only , or 3) both foot and hand , I went for 3) , the foot pedal is hooked to a Honda Gold Wing 1000 master cylinder , the left hand brake is a Grizzly 700 master cylinder , the both are connected thru Fragola hose and fittings , and tee thru a TRX250 front brake hose splitter , then you need to cap the back of the caliper , they make caps but I never could find the correct one to fit , so I did a bit of modifying to the one I got off e-bay , I had a detailed thread of the build on HondaATV forum.com under 2000 TRX450SS fishfiles ---- that site went down the tubes when the format changed , just like this one is heading , not sure if the thread is still around
This is intresting. I was just about to post if someone has any detailed steps installing the hydrualic system
I just messed with the cable system and i f*** hate it. Terrible. I really wanna do this upgrade right.

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Discussion Starter #26
you have three choices on hydraulic brakes , 1) left front lever only , 2) foot pedal only , or 3) both foot and hand , I went for 3) , the foot pedal is hooked to a Honda Gold Wing 1000 master cylinder , the left hand brake is a Grizzly 700 master cylinder , the both are connected thru Fragola hose and fittings , and tee thru a TRX250 front brake hose splitter , then you need to cap the back of the caliper , they make caps but I never could find the correct one to fit , so I did a bit of modifying to the one I got off e-bay , I had a detailed thread of the build on HondaATV forum.com under 2000 TRX450SS fishfiles ---- that site went down the tubes when the format changed , just like this one is heading , not sure if the thread is still around
The left front lever is all i want for hydraulic

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there are quite a few different left master cylinders you could use , the cap I mentioned is to cover the hole where the cable brake adjuster cam use to be after you remove it and the cap keeps dirt out of it

This is the build thread of the bike , lots of pics , maybe around 1/2 way thru is the brakes

 

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Discussion Starter #28
there are quite a few different left master cylinders you could use , the cap I mentioned is to cover the hole where the cable brake adjuster cam use to be after you remove it and the cap keeps dirt out of it

This is the build thread of the bike , lots of pics , maybe around 1/2 way thru is the brakes

Thanks alot man. Going to be my winter project. I hope this site doesnt shut down cause ill need it for reference

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Great , it works much better hydraulically than it does with the cable , I have the same rear disc conversion set up on my other 450 without the hydraulics yet , so I am reminded how much better hydraulics are regularly ---- knowing what I know now , if there was just the cable set up and no options to make it hydraulic , I won't do that mod , not worth it
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Great , it works much better hydraulically than it does with the cable , I have the same rear disc conversion set up on my other 450 without the hydraulics yet , so I am reminded how much better hydraulics are regularly ---- knowing what I know now , if there was just the cable set up and no options to make it hydraulic , I won't do that mod , not worth it
Yah fair enough. I hope this winter i can find the parts to install the hydraulic would be a nice upgrade

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Discussion Starter #33
Great , it works much better hydraulically than it does with the cable , I have the same rear disc conversion set up on my other 450 without the hydraulics yet , so I am reminded how much better hydraulics are regularly ---- knowing what I know now , if there was just the cable set up and no options to make it hydraulic , I won't do that mod , not worth it
Question. When you did your hydraulic job.
What happens with the reverse cable? Since would need new lever assembly

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Discussion Starter #34
you have three choices on hydraulic brakes , 1) left front lever only , 2) foot pedal only , or 3) both foot and hand , I went for 3) , the foot pedal is hooked to a Honda Gold Wing 1000 master cylinder , the left hand brake is a Grizzly 700 master cylinder , the both are connected thru Fragola hose and fittings , and tee thru a TRX250 front brake hose splitter , then you need to cap the back of the caliper , they make caps but I never could find the correct one to fit , so I did a bit of modifying to the one I got off e-bay , I had a detailed thread of the build on HondaATV forum.com under 2000 TRX450SS fishfiles ---- that site went down the tubes when the format changed , just like this one is heading , not sure if the thread is still around
With the grizzly lever. What happens to the reverse cable?? How do you run it after

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No problem , to by pass the reverse lock out , you can adjust the cable adjuster down by the engine and just don't hook the other end of the cable to the new lever or I made a piece to put in place of the cable and it's mount down on the engine and tightened the nut till the lock was off , there are some pic of that in that build thread ^ I linked
 

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Discussion Starter #38
No problem , to by pass the reverse lock out , you can adjust the cable adjuster down by the engine and just don't hook the other end of the cable to the new lever or I made a piece to put in place of the cable and it's mount down on the engine and tightened the nut till the lock was off , there are some pic of that in that build thread ^ I linked
Oh ok. So i can still use the es buttons to downshift to reverse if the cable isnt hooked up to the new lever. I tryed lookig last night on your link but almost all your pictures dont show up for me. Ill try my ipad see if that works better

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I don't know much about the ES , never had one running , owned a few but only for parts bike , never will own one to ride , unless my left foot get cut off .... Do you have to pull the left brake lever before shifting with an ES into reverse ???? if so then the lock out lever must be the same
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I don't know much about the ES , never had one running , owned a few but only for parts bike , never will own one to ride , unless my left foot get cut off .... Do you have to pull the left brake lever before shifting with an ES into reverse ???? if so then the lock out lever must be the same
Yah i hear you its my first machine so i didnt do research wish i didnt get the es. But im to far into this thing with amount of cash that went in. And yes you have to use the lever. 2 cables one for rear brake and one for reverse on this lever. Thats why i was asking what you did with reverse but it makes sense now cause im assuming you have a foot shift. Maybe i can just build some sort of bracket on the new lever to accomdate the reverse cable
OR. Just have no rear brake at all and run that kit blank . Better then drums freezing up i guess..

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