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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I been off the forum for almost a year, (busy). But I'm having a problem with my Rancher. Here it goes. A few days ago I moved my quad out of the garage, literally just backed it up and a few hours later pulled it back in, everything worked fine. The following day I went to move it again, started right up. Pushed the down button (it's ES) and nothing. Pushed the UP button and nothing. It would not shift out of neutral. I have no codes stored on the pod. All gauges, lights and indicators work as they should. Put the emergency shifter on and it shifts in all gears and displays the correct gear postion on the dash. I'm not even getting a click from the shift motor. Battery fully charged and connections are clean and tight. Now, here is where it gets weird. With the key on when I push either the up or down button I hear a faint beeping noise that I thought was coming from the angle sensor. So I brought out the manual and started the trouble shooting guide. So far, the angle sensor, gear shift switch (on handle bars) all checked out good. I applied 12 volts to the shift motor and it spins, in fact if I put 12 volts to it, it will change gears and the display will show the postion also. I took the shift motor out of the front case and with it still connected with the key on when I push either UP/DOWN I hear that faint noise coming from the motor. It seems like the motor is trying to spin each time I push the button. But I checked the motor using a power probe II applying 12 volts to it and it spins. The last thing I checked was the gear position switch (the one inside the rear case) and when I checked it for continuty the first time it was good, checked it again and no continuty???? Now, this switch , if it is bad, requires removing the engine, which I don't really want to do right now. But If that switch was bad wouldn't it affect the gear position indicator in the dash? I mean if I manually shift it , or put 12 volts to the motor the shifting works and so does the gear postions on the dash. I don't know what else to check. Any ideas?
 

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sounds like the shift censor is shot!!!
 

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Or gear shift motor !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sounds like the shift censor is shot!!!
Not saying it isn't, but the resistance test was good. Although I 've heard of brand new out of the box sensors being bad too. Just don't want to be putting out uneccessary cash on items that aren't bad.
 

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If you have a 6 volt battery that would be the proper way to test the shift motor. It can be getting bad but a full 12 volts will make it work. It's getting around 6 when it's on the machine working.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you have a 6 volt battery that would be the proper way to test the shift motor. It can be getting bad but a full 12 volts will make it work. It's getting around 6 when it's on the machine working.
Thankyou, thats the answer I was looking for. I wasn't sure if a full 12 volts was going to the motor. Next question, I have 5.2 volts going to the black/red wire (that's in specs) going down to the angle sensor. Where is the shift motor getting is low power voltage from? With the key on, when I press the up/down button I should get that low voltage to the motor, correct? If I don't have any voltage to the motor while pressing the button what is bad?
 

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either shift motor or shifter switch, i bet. let us know what it is. gonna be something simple...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
toodeep

Where does the 12 volts get broken down to 6 volts at to operate the shift motor? I know that the black/red wire at the angle sensor has 5.0 volts so where does shift motor get it's voltage from to operate, the thumb buttons?
 

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The ECU (black electrical box next to the right rear tire area) is what controls it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The ECU (black electrical box next to the right rear tire area) is what controls it all.

So, if I put a voltmeter on the shift motor while pressing the shift buttons I should get that low voltage to the motor? If no voltage present, I'm looking at the shift buttons to be at fault?. Reason I think this is because I have no faults codes set, everything works fine on the gauges and shift indicators when manually shifting, so I'm wondering if the shift buttons are at fault and thats why I can't get it to flash any codes. The only tests I found for the thumbs buttons were contunuty tests, and they have continuty when I press them. But like I said earlier, the shift motor tries to move, and will move with 12 volts, but you stated earlier that it only needs 6 volts to operate. I'll have to get a 6 volt battery and see. Thanks for the info. :bowing:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The ECU (black electrical box next to the right rear tire area) is what controls it all.
Here is what I checked from the manual. Answers in red.

Electric Shift Does Not Operate
1. Gearshift Linkage Inspection
Turn the ignition switch “OFF”.
Shift the gear manually using the gear change
tool.
Can the gears be changed manually?

NO –
Faulty transmission or gearshift linkage
(sections 10 and 12)
YES –


GO TO STEP 2. YES
2. Gear Indicator Inspection
Check gear indicator
Does the gear indicator show the correct gear
position when the gear change tool is moved?
NO –


Troubleshoot the gear position switch
system (page 22-11)
YES –


Troubleshoot the ES shift switch system
(page 22-9) YES



22-9
Problem Code 2: ES Shift Switch System (Up and
Down)
1. ECU and Gear Shift Switch Connection
Inspection
Check the connections of the ECU, gear shift
switch and related circuit.
Are all connections OK?
NO –


Loose or poor connections in related
circuit
YES –


GO TO STEP 2. YES
2. Shift Switch Harness Continuity Inspection at
ECU Connector
Disconnect the ECU connector (22P/Brown).
Check for continuity at the wire harness side
connector while pushing the shift switches up
or down.
Connections:


Shift up switch: Black/red (+) White/blue (–)


Shift down switch: Black/red (+) – White/yellow
(–)
Is there continuity?
NO –


GO TO STEP 3.
YES –


GO TO STEP 5. YES
3. Handlebar Switch Housing Inspection
Check for mud or water in the left handlebar
switch housing.
Is there water or mud in the handlebar switch
housing?
NO –


GO TO STEP 4.
YES –


Clean the left handlebar switch housing
4. Handlebar Switch Continuity Inspection
Disconnect the left handlebar switch connector.
Check for continuity while pushing the shift
switches up or down.
Connections:


Shift up switch: Black/red (+) – White/blue (–)


Shift down switch: Black/red (+) – White/
yellow (–)
Is there continuity?
NO –


Replace the left handlebar switch
YES – YES


• Loose or poor contact of related
circuit
• Open or short of related circuit
5. ECU Inspection
Check the ES system failure (the gear indicator
blinks) when turning the ignition switch from
“OFF” to “ON”.
Does the gear indicator blink?
NO –


No problem (temporary failure) NO
YES –


Replace the ECU with a new one and
troubleshoot again

so would a bad motor not trip the diagnostic codes?

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well after testing again it seems like the problem is going to be the gear position switch results in me pulling the motor :mad:. I checked the continuty of the switch with each gear postion and the first time N,R,1,2 had continuty and 3,4,5 didn't. Retest again and no continuty at any of the terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any way to bypass the gear postion switch or ground it out to make sure it will shift before I remove the engine?
 

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Bringing this thread back to life. My 2000 rancher 350 es 4x4 does the exact same thing as decribed in the original post. I have put a new angle sensor, shift motor, and handlebar switch buttons on and still just a faint beep coming from the motor trying to move. The battery is fresh (12.4 volts). Checking continuity on the gear position switch checks out fine but requires an odd order of operations to get continuity. If the quad is in neutral and I unplug and switch position plug, I have continuity but if I change to first gear I don’t have continuity until I plug the connector back together and turn the ignition on then unplug the connector and then it registers continuity. Is this how the rest is supposed to work? Or should I be able to switch gears and have continuity without plugging the connector back together?

Any advice will help! The electric shifting on this thing is driving me insane!!

Thanks guys
 
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