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Discussion Starter #1
Just put new rear shoes on and both hand and foot cables are loose. The foot brake has never worked. Soaking over night with wd40. Hit with hammer. Used car Jack to try to lift it then release pressure and step on it. It will move just a few degrees .
 

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You need to remove it, clean it and grease it. Take the plastic off where the rear brake rod inserts into the frame by the rear swing arm, don't bang on it with a hammer as it is softer than it looks. Grab you a battery cleaner and use the round wire brush on the end to clean the hole. Put wire brush on drill and clean the rear break pedal rod where it inserts into the frame. Get them nice and shiny and really clean then put grease on them and reinstall. Do the same thing on the rear brake drum where the rod goes into the brake hub. If you use some bearing grease it should last a while.
Don't forget to clean the brake pedal rod with a wire brush also.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
"Wilbur" That sounds like a plan but after removing the cotter pin i cant get it to slide off. It's like the rust has it seized up. And ideas like using a bearing puller?
 

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keep spraying, /soaking it and moving it, it will come off sooner or later,
they get like this from lack of service, no pm's on it, same can happen to rear bake assembly at wheel too!
need to be removed now and then and cleaned, greased/lubed!
to prevent repeating again!
 

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A bearing puller should work okay, it does have a flat washer behind the cotter key that needs to be removed.
I had the same thing happen on mine, I had to use a long flat headed screwdriver to pry and work it like MRBB said. Just don't hit it with a hammer, I did while I was prying on it and it did flatten it out a tiny bit but lucky it was in a non essential area. You're most likely going to have to do the same thing on the rear brake hub also if the pedal is that bad if you want it to be 100%. It took me about 4-6 hours to do it but after doing it once, I could do it in 2 hours next time. Have patience, it should last a long time and you won't have to do it again. It's a lot easier if you take the plastic off on the bottom around the right foot peg and easy to do.
 

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Need something better than WD. A good penetrating oil or just brake fluid and trans fluid mix. White vinegar is better than WD for breaking rust.



If there's no rubber/plastic to deal with, alternate heat, oil, soak time, heat, pulling, until it gives up.
 

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I used light weight oil in an old time squirt gun can. I picked up a gallon of ibm lightweight oil a long while back that works great in this can. If you move the brake lever up and down while prying it out, then it should free up or you have one of the worst one's I have ever heard of.
 

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Aerokroil and heat. Work it back and forth and it will gradually loosen up enough to come off.


I drilled a hole in the last one I had off, added a grease zerk to the foot pedal.
 

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LOL. You need a #3 drill bit, a 1/4x28 tap, and a zerk.


Don't think you'll be able to drill/tap it until you get it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To everyone, I'm 3 hours in. Rented a $60 puller from oreillys but it had 3 claws and couldn't them all to grab it never could put any pressure on it. Used a whole propane bottle and got it smoking hot. It would dry out the pb blaster and never could get it to slide any off the bolt. Used a 30 inch pry bar and a claw hammer. It just says no. I know I can just use the hand brake but was wanting to get this rancher as good as possible.
 

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You might have to use an acetylene torch and get it glowing red hot, try to heat the lever without directly heating the shaft. Or worst case, cut it off and buy another foot pedal.


Here's how I do it most of the time. Soak with PB, let it sit. Heat it up with propane, soak with PB, let it sit. Adding PB while hot, helps the oil wick into the shaft, keep adding PB until it doesn't smoke, let it sit. Heat it up again, repeat the process.


I would also give the shaft some hits while holding out on the lever. Use a block of wood between the hammer and shaft, to protect the shaft.
 

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I agree, if heat and tapping on it with prying at same time doesn't get it off
then cutting it off and getting a new brake lever might be the way to go!
 

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Can you work it up and down? Hit it with a hammer, knocking it up and down. Once you get it working up and down you can pull on it while moving it up and down, and it will usually work its way off.
 

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Can you work it up and down? Hit it with a hammer, knocking it up and down. Once you get it working up and down you can pull on it while moving it up and down, and it will usually work its way off.

What ^he^ said. That's strange, I had one that was almost completely frozen up and by working it up and down, gradually got more movement and able to pry it off after a while.
 
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