Hmmmm. you sure you got the one way bearing in right? That's weird.
rancher engine rebuild
So I'm rebuilding my rancher 420 motor and I have a couple questions. 1. How do I get the valve spring seats out? Mine are broke off. 2. How do I get the flywheel off? I've heard you have to have a flywheel puller or you can use a bolt??? But I was thinking I can just leave the flywheel on and just leave the crankshaft in that half of the case. can someone fill me in on that? 3. What's the easiest way to split the cases without damaging anything once you've got the clutches and everything off? And lastly, shouldn't I go ahead and have it bored while I've got everything taken apart? I've never heard it run so I don't know if it smokes. Oh and one last thing, does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do about a stripped oil drain? The previous owner stripped the plug out and it wont get very tight so I figured why not go ahead and knock that out so it doesn't come back to haunt me.
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ok so I got the exhaust leak fixed thanks to toodeep on my other thread. But as for the stalling with an obnoxious noise, I tried tapping the flywheel bolt and that helped none. I noticed a slight grinding/friction when turning it, but maybe that's just having to turn everything. But I did notice every other rotation or so there would be a pop. it did this for both directions. Could that be the one way bearing?
Well when I read noise I thought bearing, but the way it just stops I don't think that's the culprit. I've no idea. If you take the plug out, and rotate the crank using the crank bolt on the back, do you feel any binding? It's almost like something binds and just stops the motor.
Honda rancher 420 popping - YouTube
It almost sounds like it's just turning the starter motor or something and then there's that pop that echoes through the motor
It almost sounds like it's just turning the starter motor or something and then there's that pop that echoes through the motor
ok so I went and messed with it some today and I noticed a hissing coming form the oil seal and oil was leaking from it. Probably messed it up when I was messing with the output shaft. Could this have ANYTHING to do with it cutting out? Something to do with it loosing oil pressure?????
It shouldn't. Did you rotate the crankshaft before installing everything else? I have had one in my years that bond a little and that was because of the bearing didn't get pressed on all the way (even though it looked like it). I got by with a block of wood and a smack on the crank (you might have to smack both sides of it) and everything freed up and was good to go. It could be something else but the new crank leads me there.
Ok, so I'm about to take the front cover off and try tapping both ends of the crank shaft and I'm also going to replace the front oil seal…AGAIN and was wondering. What's the best way to put it in without destroying it? Put the cover on and then put in the seal? Or put the seal in the cover while it's off the motor and put it all in at the same time?
Get some shrink tubing (stuff you would use on electrical connections), slide it over the shaft (especially in the grooved areas) and shrink it. A little bit of oil and the seal should slide over everything without damaging it. Either ay will work for installing it but after the cover is on might be the easiest to make sure it doesn't get damaged.
Ok so I got the front cover off, and I noticed both clutches can spin freely in both directions. Does this mean my one way bearing is bad? Could this be why my engine is cutting out?
well I pushed her into the shop, And I driver her out. Nearly 3 months later. HUGE thanks to everybody who helped on this. Could not have imagined doing this without y'all. But she's still a wreck though, the clutch is slipping pretty bad, and it pouring out smoke out of the exhaust. But its white smoke and it does not smell oily at all. Probably just a bunch of junk up in there. My main question now is how do I go about breaking it in? I've broken in a foreman before but it didn't have near as many new parts. Here I have: new crankshaft, new piston, new cylinder, new counter balance, new valve guide, fresh top end rebuild, so lots of fresh metal. And one other thing, kind of a long shot, but is there any chance a foreman 450 secondary clutch would fit this bike?
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Everything is roller or needle bearings so the break in is more or less just seating the rings. I just ride like normal (not WOT for long periods of time).
What did you find wrong? On the clutch I think others have tried and something was different, I'm guessing your thinking gear reduction.
What did you find wrong? On the clutch I think others have tried and something was different, I'm guessing your thinking gear reduction.
well now wait a minute. I was thinking I can just rob the clutch plates from my junker old foreman so I can start riding it because the clutch is slipping so bad I can barely ride it. But if I can get a gear reduction out of this...this might be something I might try and switch both clutches or something. Because if I can get a gr and not have to pay anything for it that would be AMAZING
The clutch disk would be the same BUT you would be short one from the Foreman. If you have one decent one left form the 420 that would get you going. I would have to look at the gearing again, the 450 is probably the same as the 420. I never needed a GR so I don't pay close attention to that stuff.. lol
how can I tell if a clutch plate is good or not? And what if I bought a gear reduction for a foreman? Because they're a he!!uva lot cheaper than the ones for the rancher
ok so I got my new clutch disks in and was putting them in fiber steal, fiber steal and was thinking, Should I coat them in oil? I remember in a video of someone doing a rebuild said "they should have oil all over them" so should I coat the in oil? Or does it do it itself naturally? Just wanted to make sure I get this right because I DO NOT want to have to go back into the motor again.
Yes you should coat or soak them in oil before installing them.
See if som1please point me in the rite directiion please ...i have a 2007 honda trx420 Fe 4x4 es ...looking for a bottom end rebuild kit but only finding it for a 2012-2013...i seen some1 state that a 2012 crank will fit a 2008 ... sayn 2007-2011 are the same ...t.i.a
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