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I don't know what could have happened, but the clutch must be disengaged. I would back the screw out a little and see if it will engage and pull.
 

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Something must be pushing in on the center of the clutch, causing it to be disengaged, but I don't know what it would be if it's not the adjusting bolt and adjusting plate that pushes the ball retainer into the lifter cam.
 

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If I pull it back apart how should I check it. Another words, should the clutch spin, can the plate be miss aligned... You mentioned something pushing on the clutch thats keeping it disengaged. Can you better explain how its supposed to function properly? (adjusting bolt, ball retainer, lifting cam, etc). Thanks..
When the shift motor turns the shift linkage, it moves the clutch lever which moves the lifter cam. When the lifter cam moves, the balls in the ball retainer come up out of the grooves (recesses) in the lifter cam. When this happens, the lifter cam pushes in on the bearing in the center of the clutch. This, in turn, counteracts the pressure of the clutch springs and disengages the clutch. At this point, the springs won't be holding the discs and plates tightly together, so the clutch is disengaged.

When it shifts into gear completely, the clutch lever and the lifter cam will move back into their original position and the balls in the ball retainer will fall back down into the grooves in the lifter cam, which will let the center of the clutch come back out, putting pressure on the clutch discs and plates. At this point the clutch will be engaged and the ATV should pull.

If the clutch free play adjusting screw were to be adjusted wrong or put in wrong, somehow, and the adjusting plate were to be putting inward pressure on the ball retainer and lifter cam, it would be pushing in on the clutch and would cause the clutch to be disengaged and the ATV wouldn't pull.

When you adjust the adjusting screw, the adjusting plate moves in toward the clutch and this adjustment is what determines how far the clutch disengages. For example, if the plate goes in too far toward the clutch, it can cause the clutch to be partially disengaged or even fully disengaged, even when in gear. If the adjusting plate isn't adjusted out toward the clutch enough, then the linkage won't move enough to completely disengage the clutch properly.

I hope you can understand the way it works from what I've described, but I'm not very good at explaining things. This is one of those things that's hard to explain how it works, anyway.
 

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When you get the cover off, you probably won't be able to turn the clutch, because the clutch should be engaged and the gear on the back of the clutch will be meshed with the gear on the drum of the centrifugal clutch and it will also try to turn the gears inside the transmission. You may be able to turn it in one direction if it's in neutral, but it will only turn in that one direction because of the one-way bearing inside the centrifugal clutch, it will try to turn the engine over in one direction.

Unless you had the clutch off, I don't think the clutch could be causing the problem. I believe it's something to do with the adjusting screw or the adjusting plate.
 

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The centrifugal clutch basically works just like the small centrifugal clutches that go-carts and chainsaws have, except they're made a little different and are a little bigger on ATV engines. At idle, the center of the centrifugal clutch turns, but it's not engaged with the outer drum of the centrifugal clutch. When the engine speed goes above idle, the weights/shoes overcome the spring pressure and are slung out against the outer shell or drum of the centrifugal clutch. At this point the outer drum is engaged and locked and turns with the center part of the clutch. The outer drum has a gear that is meshed with the gear on the back of the "change" clutch basket, so the clutch basket will start to turn at this point. If the change clutch is engaged, then the ATV will start to pull.
 

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EXCELLENT explanation, again much thanks.:bowdown:

You mentioned since I didn't have the clutch off, that you're guessing it's a problem with the adjusting screw and/or plate. That makes sense to me. Since I just replaced the bolt, is there a proper way to make an initial adjustment or zero point with the adjusting bolt and plate? Or would it hurt if I turned the adjusting screw clockwise until the stop?
Yeah, you could try turning it all the way clockwise and then turn it counterclockwise until you feel resistance. Then, turn it clockwise 1/4 turn.
 

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The change clutch discs/plates are loose...not engaged or squeezed together. Is this normal? Again, the atv is in Neutral so I'm thinking that's ok.
OK, this must be your problem. With the crankcase cover off, the clutch should be engaged. In other words, the springs should be holding the clutch discs tightly together. It doesn't matter what gear it's in, with the crankcase cover off, the clutch should be engaged and the discs should be held tightly together by the spring pressure of the clutch springs.

Since you didn't take the clutch apart, I don't what would have caused this. Maybe you turned the adjusting screw too far and it pushed the center of the clutch in too far and somehow one of the discs or plates got hung. Just a guess, but that's all I can figure.
 

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You'll probably have to unbolt and remove the 4 springs and the lifter plate and the big nut that holds the clutch center on and remove the clutch center and clutch discs and plates and then reinstall everything.

When you put everything back together make sure the clutch discs are tight. It's real easy for one of the plates to get hung in the clutch basket and get in a bind. If this happens, the discs won't be tight and you will have the same problem that you have now.
 

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When you remove the 4 springs, if you hear something "pop", you might not have to take the rest of the clutch apart. Just put the springs and lifter plate back on and tighten them back down and see if the clutch discs are tight. If not, you will have to take the clutch discs all the way out.

When tightening the 4 springs back down, make sure you tighten in a crisscross pattern and tighten the bolts in 2 or 3 steps, don't tighten each bolt all the way down at once.
 

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You will have to remove the centrifugal clutch to get the clutch discs out of the change clutch. There's a special tool to hold the clutches while loosening the nuts, but if you have an air impact wrench, you might not need it. If you have an impact wrench, you should be able to hold the clutches with your hand and loosen with the impact wrench. Be sure to wear gloves.
 

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You could try removing the 4 bolts that hold the springs on first, before removing the centrifugal clutch. You might have to remove some of the bolts and then turn the clutch to get to the others. I don't know if you can get the 4 bolts, springs, and lifter plate off without removing the centrifugal clutch or not, but you could try. If you can take them off and put them back on and see if the clutch discs are tight. If they are you won't have to remove the centrifugal clutch. If they're still not tight, you will have to remove the centrifugal clutch to get the discs out.
 

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Will do, thanks again. Maybe I'll get lucky. Also, just to make sure I'm clear, the atv is in Neutral. Even with it in Neutral, the clutch plates/discs should be tight/engaged...right?
Yes, with the crankcase cover off, the clutch discs should be tight/engaged. The crankcase cover has to be on and the lifter cam, ball retainer, and adjusting plate has to be in place before the clutch can disengage. Those are the parts that disengages the clutch.

Neutral is accomplished by disengagement of gears inside the transmission.
 

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Also, when tightening the 4 bolts that hold the lifter plate and springs, don't overtighten them as they will break easily. They torque at 9 ft-lbs.
 
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