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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First a quick back ground. I have a 2006 Foreman ES and felt it was shifting a bit too hard. I decided to adjust the clutch, and found the clutch adjustment bolt to be VERY difficult to turn. I attempted to turn it until I felt resistance, but I basically had resistance the whole time. After struggling with it for a while, I managed to turn it counterclockwise until it stopped then came back a quarter turn. I then started the quad and shifted it into gear and it wouldn't move. I figured I had over adjusted the clutch bolt. I went to adjust it further, again with much resistance, and then one of the tips broke off the bolt:angry:. I couldn't adjust it, and my quad wouldn't move. So, I pulled off the front case cover to replace the clutch adjusting bolt. I didn't notice anything out of place while I had it apart, so I installed the new clutch adjusting bolt and put it back together. This time, the adjusting bolt turned nice and smooth. I turned it counterclockwise until I met resistance and then backed it off a quarter turn. I filled the quad with oil and started it up.

I shifted from N to first gear using the ES button. It indicates 1 on the readout and I can feel the bike kind of lurch like its going into gear. I give it some throttle and NOTHING:rant. I shifted down to Rev and same result, nothing. Sooooo......help??!! Please...
 

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Dude how many miles on that thing ,why you ask ,the clutch might need to be replaced... an I would have chanced oil than ran it a bit than adjusted it ??? just saying it might be to for out with not having the oil gone at first....
 

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I don't know what could have happened, but the clutch must be disengaged. I would back the screw out a little and see if it will engage and pull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It has 2000 miles on it. I had changed the oil recently, and it was running fine. I just felt it was shifted a bit hard which is why I figured I'd just adjust the clutch. I probably should have left well enough alone. Too late. Anyway, like I said earlier, the clutch adjusting bolt was all but frozen. I basically turned it fully clockwise until it stopped, then back counterclockwise till it stopped. It was VERY hard to turn. I then backed it off a quarter turn and...nothing. I'm wondering if I overadjusted it one way or another??? The adjusting bolt spins smoothly now in both directions. I just turned it counterclockwise until it stopped then back a quarter turn.
I have tried backing it out further and even tightening it further...still nothing! It's acting like the clutch isn't engaging at all?? I could pull the cover back off but I'm not even sure what to check?? Any other thoughts...anyone...
 

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Something must be pushing in on the center of the clutch, causing it to be disengaged, but I don't know what it would be if it's not the adjusting bolt and adjusting plate that pushes the ball retainer into the lifter cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I pull it back apart how should I check it. Another words, should the clutch spin, can the plate be miss aligned... You mentioned something pushing on the clutch thats keeping it disengaged. Can you better explain how its supposed to function properly? (adjusting bolt, ball retainer, lifting cam, etc). Thanks..
 

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If I pull it back apart how should I check it. Another words, should the clutch spin, can the plate be miss aligned... You mentioned something pushing on the clutch thats keeping it disengaged. Can you better explain how its supposed to function properly? (adjusting bolt, ball retainer, lifting cam, etc). Thanks..
When the shift motor turns the shift linkage, it moves the clutch lever which moves the lifter cam. When the lifter cam moves, the balls in the ball retainer come up out of the grooves (recesses) in the lifter cam. When this happens, the lifter cam pushes in on the bearing in the center of the clutch. This, in turn, counteracts the pressure of the clutch springs and disengages the clutch. At this point, the springs won't be holding the discs and plates tightly together, so the clutch is disengaged.

When it shifts into gear completely, the clutch lever and the lifter cam will move back into their original position and the balls in the ball retainer will fall back down into the grooves in the lifter cam, which will let the center of the clutch come back out, putting pressure on the clutch discs and plates. At this point the clutch will be engaged and the ATV should pull.

If the clutch free play adjusting screw were to be adjusted wrong or put in wrong, somehow, and the adjusting plate were to be putting inward pressure on the ball retainer and lifter cam, it would be pushing in on the clutch and would cause the clutch to be disengaged and the ATV wouldn't pull.

When you adjust the adjusting screw, the adjusting plate moves in toward the clutch and this adjustment is what determines how far the clutch disengages. For example, if the plate goes in too far toward the clutch, it can cause the clutch to be partially disengaged or even fully disengaged, even when in gear. If the adjusting plate isn't adjusted out toward the clutch enough, then the linkage won't move enough to completely disengage the clutch properly.

I hope you can understand the way it works from what I've described, but I'm not very good at explaining things. This is one of those things that's hard to explain how it works, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Helmut,
Thanks A LOT for the explanation, I think you did quite well, and that helps me a bunch. I'll open it back up, hopefully tomorrow, and give it a look see.

Another question, when I pull the front case cover, again, will I be able to spin the clutch assembly? Another words, what should be spinning freely so I'll know if something is stuck.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh yeah, would you mind explaining how the centrifigal clutch works with the regular clutch pack? At least that's what I think I'm looking at....
 

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When you get the cover off, you probably won't be able to turn the clutch, because the clutch should be engaged and the gear on the back of the clutch will be meshed with the gear on the drum of the centrifugal clutch and it will also try to turn the gears inside the transmission. You may be able to turn it in one direction if it's in neutral, but it will only turn in that one direction because of the one-way bearing inside the centrifugal clutch, it will try to turn the engine over in one direction.

Unless you had the clutch off, I don't think the clutch could be causing the problem. I believe it's something to do with the adjusting screw or the adjusting plate.
 

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Give just a minute and I will answer the question about the centrifugal clutch.
 

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The centrifugal clutch basically works just like the small centrifugal clutches that go-carts and chainsaws have, except they're made a little different and are a little bigger on ATV engines. At idle, the center of the centrifugal clutch turns, but it's not engaged with the outer drum of the centrifugal clutch. When the engine speed goes above idle, the weights/shoes overcome the spring pressure and are slung out against the outer shell or drum of the centrifugal clutch. At this point the outer drum is engaged and locked and turns with the center part of the clutch. The outer drum has a gear that is meshed with the gear on the back of the "change" clutch basket, so the clutch basket will start to turn at this point. If the change clutch is engaged, then the ATV will start to pull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
EXCELLENT explanation, again much thanks.:bowdown:

You mentioned since I didn't have the clutch off, that you're guessing it's a problem with the adjusting screw and/or plate. That makes sense to me. Since I just replaced the bolt, is there a proper way to make an initial adjustment or zero point with the adjusting bolt and plate? Or would it hurt if I turned the adjusting screw clockwise until the stop?
 

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EXCELLENT explanation, again much thanks.:bowdown:

You mentioned since I didn't have the clutch off, that you're guessing it's a problem with the adjusting screw and/or plate. That makes sense to me. Since I just replaced the bolt, is there a proper way to make an initial adjustment or zero point with the adjusting bolt and plate? Or would it hurt if I turned the adjusting screw clockwise until the stop?
Yeah, you could try turning it all the way clockwise and then turn it counterclockwise until you feel resistance. Then, turn it clockwise 1/4 turn.
 

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Helmut, you are on it! I gotta give you props for posting all those details to help another member like this.

ninedriver - good luck getting that adjustment just right tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
O.K guys, an update. I pulled the front case cover, again. I can't seem to find anything wrong or broken. Here's what is happening:

The atv is in Neutral, I can spin the "change clutch" counterclockwise which inturn spins the centrifugal clutch outer drum clockwise. I cannot spin the change clutch clockwise. I believe this is normal per your (Helmut) explanation with the atv being in Neutral.

The change clutch discs/plates are loose...not engaged or squeezed together. Is this normal? Again, the atv is in Neutral so I'm thinking that's ok.

Thought...is it possible that while using the ES shift buttons maybe the atv wasn't shifting into a gear completely? It did indicate a different gear on the display...i.e. I down shifted to Rev and 'R' showed up on display. Same as when I upshifted..'N' , then '1', then '2'. Does the display coincide with the actual gear position via the transmission or does it receive it's position elsewhere? (maybe a low battery?)

Also, can I use the manual shift selector with the front case off? If so, if I shift into first gear, would the clutch discs/plates be compressed?

I'm grasping here....
 

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The change clutch discs/plates are loose...not engaged or squeezed together. Is this normal? Again, the atv is in Neutral so I'm thinking that's ok.
OK, this must be your problem. With the crankcase cover off, the clutch should be engaged. In other words, the springs should be holding the clutch discs tightly together. It doesn't matter what gear it's in, with the crankcase cover off, the clutch should be engaged and the discs should be held tightly together by the spring pressure of the clutch springs.

Since you didn't take the clutch apart, I don't what would have caused this. Maybe you turned the adjusting screw too far and it pushed the center of the clutch in too far and somehow one of the discs or plates got hung. Just a guess, but that's all I can figure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK...cool, we're on to something (actually, you're on to something...I'm just along for the ride)

I think your assesment of turning the adjustment screw too far is right on.

So, how to remedy my situation... Should I remove the 4 bolts and lifter plate? Or is there something I need to pry loose or realign? You mentioned the center of the clutch being pushed in too far, any idea on how to unpush it?
 

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You'll probably have to unbolt and remove the 4 springs and the lifter plate and the big nut that holds the clutch center on and remove the clutch center and clutch discs and plates and then reinstall everything.

When you put everything back together make sure the clutch discs are tight. It's real easy for one of the plates to get hung in the clutch basket and get in a bind. If this happens, the discs won't be tight and you will have the same problem that you have now.
 

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When you remove the 4 springs, if you hear something "pop", you might not have to take the rest of the clutch apart. Just put the springs and lifter plate back on and tighten them back down and see if the clutch discs are tight. If not, you will have to take the clutch discs all the way out.

When tightening the 4 springs back down, make sure you tighten in a crisscross pattern and tighten the bolts in 2 or 3 steps, don't tighten each bolt all the way down at once.
 
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