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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am really hoping someone here can help me out. I replaced the centrifugal clutch in my 500trx fa this last week, it was slipping pretty bad. I felt everything went smooth. I got the bike all put back together put the 3 quarts of oil in it, did not turn it on yet so I am assuming the case is still dry. I was reinstalling the shifter linkage and trying to find neutral so I could adjust and set the length of the linkage. When in neutral the bike moves free and no noise. When I put it into gear the bike still rolls free and I can hear what to my untrained ear is gears grinding. I am for one, hoping that I just need to start the bike and let the oil flow into the case. But the fact that it rolls so free when in gear has me concerned. I have only had this bike for a little while and to be honest I can't remember if it rolled free when in gear beforehand. Please let me know your thoughts, this is my snow pusher and the snow is coming. Thanks

And to be fair I am only a backyard monkey that wrenches, I am more concerned that if proceed I will damage things. I know enough to stop when I am questioning something vs just trucking ahead and hoping for the best, that was the 25 year old me, lol O what 10 years can teach you.
 

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Welcome to the forum. The transmission works off of oil pressure so you need to run it and then finish filling it with oil. They will grind some when pushing them in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Toodeep, Thank you so much. That is what I was hoping to hear. When I get off work I will give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ok, I got it started and filled with oil, the gears sound good and the free roll when in gear feels normal again. But now when I put into gear it lunges forward and stalls. The idle is nice and low, I'm guessing since I replaced the centrifugal clutch that something needs adjusting? Hopefully I did not miss something when inside. Any thoughts? Thanks again this is a huge help.

I am pretty sure I put the one way bearing in correct, I remember when I was doing it I stopped and double checked online what way it went. How could I check with out tearing everything apart? It jumps forward and dies right when I shift it into Drive.
 

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I hate to give bad news but it sounds like the one way clutch (bearing) is installed backwards. It's the one that sits inside the centrifugal clutch drum. It's free one way and locks the other (for engine braking) and if installed backwards it locks the clutch making it a direct drive.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Toodeep, thanks for your help. You learn more from your failures than your success's. At least I should be faster this time, lol. If you think that is what it is then I will be diving back in. From my frantic research on other types of bikes it was also leading me that conclusion. I guess I just did not want to accept it and I was pretty sure I put it in correct, at least I thought I did, but sounds like I didn't.

Is there anyway to "test" it before I tear into it, or did I pretty much test it all ready by just putting it into gear and watching the bike jump forward. Lol
 

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If you get a rolling start you'll probably be able to drive it until you slow enough to kill the motor. If it is that the clutch weights you replaced are doing nothing since that bearing locked the assembly together.

When working correctly, the crankshaft has to get at a certain speed (rpm) for the weights to overcome the spring tension and drive the outer hub thus moving the machine.

There's no adjustments besides the initializing of the system (electronic mostly) so that's about all I can think of. When you get the cover off make sure the drum will rotate freely in one direction. If its locked both ways it might be something else.

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Discussion Starter #8
Toodeep, I really appreciate your advice you have no idea how helpful it is. I luckily only have to work a half day tomorrow, so I will tackle it when I get home. The more I think about it the bearing said "outside" on one side, but I'm thinking I was looking at it backwards when the assembly was on my bench, not thinking of it being in the machine. I'll follow up when I get'er done. To hopefully leave a complete thread for the next rookie.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One way bearing was indeed installed backwards, what a rookie move. Flipped it over and got it reinstalled. Taking a dinner break before gasket scraping and reinstalling the cover and such. Thanks again for the help. I will make another post tomorrow once it's all back together and the gasket is dry and I filler back up with oil and take it for a test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Allright, got it all back together filled up with oil, and for the 1st 60 seconds of the ride it worked great, then I came to a stop and the speedometer was jumping all over yhe place sitting still. The I gave it gas and it felt like it was not wanting the shift into a higher range, I was in D2 mode. Then so I slowed down and speed up again and it felt like the clutch I just fix was slipping, high rev but not matching with speed. So I parked it said a few choice words had a beer and rode it again. Could not get it to do it again. Ran great, hauled ass no problem, no slipping, auto shift felt normal. But obviously I'm still wondering what was going on. Any ideas? Maybe a sensor of some kind? This is actually what the bike was doing that lead me to replace to clutch. Worked fine in ESP mode, but in d1 or d2 it would rev up and not match with speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Maybe angle sensor? I let it cool down and just went and tried it again. When in reverse all the D1, D2, ESP lights started flashing and it was acting like it was throttle limited. Turned key off and started up, flashing went away. When accelerating the revs were not matching the speed again. Very frustrated, just spent a week "fixing" this problem and now it's still doing the same thing. At least I have a new clutch now. Please help I'm about to lose my cool.
 

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Wow, this sounds familiar & not good! I also have a 2001 Rubicon with similar issues. Unfortunately these first years of the Hondamatic were known to fail. Very expensive and time consuming to repair....hope this isn't the case but it often ends with a new transmission (non-rebuildable) is required.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Spock, When you say yours is doing the same, have you had a diagnosis yet or are you looking for answers as well? The thing that has me holding onto hope is that in ESP it shifts great has plenty of power and does not feel like it's slipping at all. I would think if there was something catastrophic with the Hondamatic that would not be the case.
 

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Well, I'd say yours isn't as cut and dried as mine. This one wouldn't hardly go at all, really struggled to turn the wheels regardless of auto or ESP. Do you get any fault codes? Did you try to initialize the electrical system yet? Usually a bad angle sensor gives a signal and goes into a safe or "limp home" mode.
 

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Have you reinitialized the system? I would try that if not, listen and make sure the shift motor cycles smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Toodeep, did the video game reset and it runs great. Is this indicative of something that needs to be replaced or does its brain get scrambled every now and then like the rest of us?
 

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the older ruby's have a safe mode that you can limp back on, no power and reverse sputters. when you reinitialize it resets the computer to factory reset. The older Ruby's actually had an oil pump that the bypass would stick open when oil was cold and thick and when warmed up caused low oil pressure toasting the hondamatic. I have a 2001 that i replaced the oil pump a few years back with a new style and still runs like new. in my opinion they are one of the smoothest tranny's out there. I recommend using wet clutch rated synthetic oil in all the older ruby's, my opinion is that it really makes a difference. I do believe that using synthetic helps to keep the bypass from sticking open on the older style oil pumps.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Harig, Thanks for the information. I am so thankful to have gained access to this community. Do you have a recommendation on the "new style" oil pump? Would it be worth upgrading or should I monitor the bike and go from there. I rely on this machine to keep my driveway clear in the winter and I also use it to get me in the backcountry for berry picking and hunting. I don't mind upgrading or installing new parts if they are subject to fail.
 
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