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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'm new to this forum. I bought a '95 foreman 400 last summer and have been very happy with it. I graduated from a 1985 big red 250 atc es.

Last fall the oil light would come on the odd time and I didn't think much of it. It came on this spring and stayed on. I changed the oil and the light would not go out. Since then it has been very intermittent. I have read much about these symptoms on this forum and have learned a lot, thanks to all. I double checked that the oil filter was in properly, the oil cooler is not plugged, and all fused are ok. I grounded the blue wire that goes to the thermosensor to the frame with varying results. At times the fan and oil light come on, at others neither come on. The oil light came on today when I turned the key on and would not go off. I unplugged the blue thermosensor wire and the light stayed on!! I put power to the blue wire off the fan. It worked the fan. All wiring seems solid and connections I looked at were clean and good. I tried to test the fan control unit but my skills with my ohm meter are limited. I am afraid to run the bike for fear of a severe overheat. I'd like to get a fix on my own if possible to save some cash. The Honda shop charges an arm and a leg for service. Is my problem the thermosensor, fan control unit, or wiring? Please help so I can get back to enjoying my bike.

Thanks in advance,

Giggler
 

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it sound like your fan control unit is going out. I am not aware of a method to check the fan control other than what you have already done. maybe HondaMechanic will chim in and give us his thoughs if a test procedure is available.
 

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Test procedure to test wires to fan control.
Disconnect two connectors from control and check for loose pins, corrosion or damaged wires.
Test 1 Meter on Rx1000 between blue wire and ground 9500-10,500ohms.
Test 2 Meter on Rx1 between sky blue wire and ground should show continuity.
Test 3 Meter on Rx1 between green wire and ground should show continuity.
Test 4 Voltmeter between white/black and ground should read 13.0-13.2 volts (battery voltage) with ignition on.
Repeat with blue/red and ground and pink and ground. Should read 13.0-13.2 v each time.

If all wires test correctly, replace the cooling fan control unit.

the sky blue wire is the one in the 4 wire connector.

Got this procedure from Clymer service manual. Hope it helps.
 
G

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks

Thanks for the info guys. I'll test the fan control wires this weekend and order a new control unit next week if necessary.

Mike
 

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did you give it a good hosing down? presure wash? i had same issue and found that water was getting into the wiring on the controll unit or the same plugs u checked to see if fan was working . try cleaning that up with wd-40 and then try if light goes out make it harder for water to get in there
 

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do you know if this is the same test procedure for a 2000 450es?? thanksQUOTE ("H4":34ezyctk)
Test procedure to test wires to fan control.
Disconnect two connectors from control and check for loose pins, corrosion or damaged wires.
Test 1 Meter on Rx1000 between blue wire and ground 9500-10,500ohms.
Test 2 Meter on Rx1 between sky blue wire and ground should show continuity.
Test 3 Meter on Rx1 between green wire and ground should show continuity.
Test 4 Voltmeter between white/black and ground should read 13.0-13.2 volts (battery voltage) with ignition on.
Repeat with blue/red and ground and pink and ground. Should read 13.0-13.2 v each time.

If all wires test correctly, replace the cooling fan control unit.

the sky blue wire is the one in the 4 wire connector.

Got this procedure from Clymer service manual. Hope it helps.
 

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What is your battery voltage(measured at the battery)?
 
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