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Discussion Starter #1
I’m new - I’ve had a problem for some time and I’ve seen some posts but can’t get past this. 2000-350 foreman TE. Got it a year ago used. Would start in any gear so obviously modified. Recently went dead and after replacing solenoid and some other misc thing I come to this neutral switch “issue”. Previously the green light was always “on” now it is “off”. It appears I have no switch- it seems to have been removed- !!
What now? Approx where would it have been connected in the harness ? I’d add a new one but would rather just get this thing started. Jumping the solenoid it turns over ok. Use to run great. My first 4 wheels after many with 2. Hate to go back. - any help?
 

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Welcome to the forum. The modification just sounds like they grounded the neutral wire from the gear position switch. The position switch is internal on these and known to go bad. The connector would be on the right side of the machine, under the fender in front of the wheel area. Just look for a wire that looks out of place and going to a ground. Chances are it just came undone.
 

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If all your wiring checks out, then it's possible that the shift drum has a broken end. On the early 350's the part that is supported in the cases was prone to failure since they're too small. This was the part that also controlled the gear position switch. I repaired one or two back in the day. You needed to get an updated shift drum installed which required case splitting - a pretty big job. Those that failed still shifted ok but the neutral light didn't work and unless hot wired, the electric starter couldn't function.
 

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So to link what toodeep and spock said, most likely your shift drum broke, and a previous owner grounded the neutral wire to trick the machine to think it's in neutral, thus allowing it to start. That's why it would previously start in any gear.


So find that neutral wire, ground it, and you should be back in business.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies - i’ll Look more closely but I’m not finding that neutral wire. ( colour?) Toodeep is saying right side by wheel - can I assume that’s up high near the other connections? This is a huge pain - any chance that wire is closer to the fuse box or starter or solenoid ? ( I appreciate the help and patience). J
 

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It's in the group of connectors up high on the front side if the rear wheel. It's a light green wire with a red stripe. It runs to the ecm and to the starter solenoid since they both have to see neutral to work.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks again for getting me closer .... Im ok mechanically but the electrical components baffle me. Ive stripped the bike down to get a good look at things. There is definately nothing (no wire) near where the neutral switch is.
Ive attached a photo and pulled the fuse box in proximity of the harness at the top of right wheel
Is that the correct Lt Green w/red coming from the diode? (looks like someone poked it with a tester at some point) and is that it plugged in at the harness connections?
Im thinking someones former modifcation is gone bad but i cant see or understand where it may be.
What would anyone suggest at this stage; did i choose the correct wire; is a ground closer to the fuse box reccomended; something else?
 

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If you're sitting on the seat, facing forward, there is a square box mounted to the frame right under your right butt cheek (under the seat, of course).


That's your gear position switch.
 

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I had to go back to the original post. You have a 350 rancher 2x4 electric shift? It should have never shifted with the buttons if the neutral light was on all the time.

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Discussion Starter #10
toodeep, its a Foreman (Canada i think= rancher US) not an electric shift - its a foot shift only not 4x4 only 2wd

jeep69, i'll post a photo i dont see that if its suppose to be there i believe it was removed - D
 

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Okay, just checking with the te part. If you tap in a ground wire to the wire your upper arrow is pointing to you should be in buisness. Those wires should be in a loom with the main wiring harness though so let's hope they didn't cut it somewhere else.

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Discussion Starter #12
Toodeep - Instead of tying directly in to ground near the fuse box I peeled back what didn’t seem to look like factory protection. I discovered photo #1. Went a bit further to find two points where someone modified wiring - photo#2

From there at the lt. green/red I simply made a ground directly to the neg battery terminal. That caused the neutral light to come on when key was turned.

That was great to see - but I celebrated too soon.

When I then connected the permanent negative cable to the battery neg terminal (it wasnt connected previously) nothing worked for me. At that point I discovered I was blowing a fuse on the “lights” circuit (I did that a few times). With the neg battery terminal connected to ground and while jumping that lt. green/red to ground the light fuse blows.

What’s that telling me?
Any idea what’s up now or at least where to investigate further?
 

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Check the wiring ar the ecm and see if it looks damaged or if any modifications have been done there. It up under the front fender on the right side.

Those connectors you found would be honda connections in the harness. The canadian models are wired a little different than the ones in the states. The only way that green with red stripe wire should ever have power is if the diode is bad but even then only when the starter button is pushed. It shouldn't be blowing the light fuse. You need to find the modification that was done by the previous owner and that will help a lot.

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks.
I’ll keep trying and go to the ecm
The very first thing I changed out in this pursuit was the diode ( so I’m sure that’s good).
I’ll let u know. J
 

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Discussion Starter #15
this is all i got... photo
looked ugly then i peeled it back to find this was twisted up-all of it just goes to ground.

hate to junk this thing- it runs great bwhen it starts. J
 

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From the pictures I haven't seen anything yet for a reason the neutral light was on all the time. The canadian models have a meter on them, correct? If it does try unplugging it and see if it still blows fuses. It doesnt need the meter to operate, it just a display.

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Discussion Starter #17
You mean - unplug the meter ( screen) - it wasn’t working regardless. I’ll unplug it and try again - sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Toodeep
I the display (meter) leaving the ignition switch - got the same effect - dead short and blown fuse when I turn the key.
I’m intrigued-
Why is it that with no neg terminal connected to the battery I can obtain a “dim” neutral light with key off - key on I get proper brightness.
Doesn’t that mean that there is an active positive in the frame at all times - a short to the frame ( likely in the lighting circuit because that is what blows when I hook the beg battery up)?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got it!
Toodeep- thanks for staying with me on this -
I became convinced I had a light positive charge within the frame and so started peeling back loads of tape. I finally disconnected a couple of pairs and lost that lightlylit/dim neutral light until it went out.

Next I hooked all up as it should be and boom- a perfect start with everything working- I’m done!

A lot of reassembly but tons of gratification
I really really appreciate all the help - this has been great. Thanks a million South Dakota from a small town on the east coast shoreline of Canada.
Yes!
 
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