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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
Total new guy here with my first ATV....

I've come into possession of a Rancher ES 4x4. I've poked all over this thing in the garage (albeit somewhat dark) and can't find any identification as to what specific year/model I have. Can one of you point me to where this information might be located so I can start with some informed questions?

I know off the top of my head it's ??about?? a 2003 4x4 with an ESP electronic shift. I have a small fuel leak from what I presume to be a carb overflow tube (stuck float?) as well as a somewhat difficult time shifting from 1st to Reverse or vice-versa without shutting it off first. Needs a thorough cleaning and figure out a small oil oil leak location. Other than these items, it's filthy dirty as it was a ranch vehicle it's entire life.

Certainly looking forward to this next adventure, and with your help hope to get it going.

Thx-
~m
 

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Welcome to the forum.


I'm going to need to see a pic of the M38A1......
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Welcome to the forum.


I'm going to need to see a pic of the M38A1......
lol... It's a 1953 model my Dad and I restored 20+ years ago... This pic was taken a couple weeks ago.



On the ATV question, is there an ID plate or tag somewhere which has a VIN or specific model information? Motorcycles have 'em on the front frame assembly, and I can't find anything on this one. But it might just be covered in dirt/mud.....
 

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Where the front bumper bolts to the frame there is a plate with the vin number on it.

I would start with cleaning the carb and adjusting the clutch. If the idle is set high it can give shifting problems as well.

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Discussion Starter #5
Where the front bumper bolts to the frame there is a plate with the vin number on it.

I would start with cleaning the carb and adjusting the clutch. If the idle is set high it can give shifting problems as well.

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Thank you! I'll check for that VIN plate this evening. Probably can't get to the carb until the weekend however. This is an electronic shift model. Are the internals for this much like a standard clutch/plate assembly, or is this a totally different beast?
 

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Same as manual shift atvs but has a few sensors and a motor so you can shift with buttons. To rule out mechanical problems there is a shaft sticking out the left side of the motor you can put a toll on and shift it manually.

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lol... It's a 1953 model my Dad and I restored 20+ years ago... This pic was taken a couple weeks ago.



On the ATV question, is there an ID plate or tag somewhere which has a VIN or specific model information? Motorcycles have 'em on the front frame assembly, and I can't find anything on this one. But it might just be covered in dirt/mud.....
Very nice! Love it. You just need an M100 to pull behind it and an M2 on a pedestal
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well, it's been awhile....

It's a 2003 TRX350FE according to the sticker on the front sub-frame.

I gave it a good scrub and it looks ok.

My list looks like this so far:
1. Battery status. When I got it, I was told the battery was almost new. The battery certainly had juice to start it everytime I tried for the first couple months. Sitting all this time now however, it's not so new so it's on the charger and we'll see if that can be resurrected. Battery Tender Jr on order as a good measure for either this battery or a replacement.

2. The carb needs to be rebuilt or at minimum cleaned. If I leave the petcock "ON", I get a fuel drip, so I'm guessing the float is probably stuck open. A good cleaning hopefully will take care of this. If not, is there a preferred replacement "plug&play" carb people use to swap out the stocker? Turning the petcock "OFF" stops the drip.

3. Airbox has either oil or fuel in the bottom of it. Haven't stuck my finger in there yet. Are these an oil bath airbox or is that fluid (either one) not supposed to be there? And if not, what's a good cause of why it's there?

4. Shifting was what I'd call somewhat problematic when I first got it. I'm thinking I just want to get it running dependably first then address this aspect.

5. Tires are shot so I'll need a full set. At the moment it's got Bridgestone Dirt Hooks. I've tried to find those again but am not having much luck. Any suggestions on a tire that's about the same profile as these? This will be used primarily on a 26 acre mostly grassy field for landscape maintenance. Nothing super aggressive is required.

6. The choke cable is not affixed well on the little holding bracket on the left barset. Need to figure out how that's affixed and address it.

7. Rear stop/tail light lens is broken so that'll need replacement.

Any thoughts on my project questions would be much appreciated.
 

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Well, it's been awhile....

It's a 2003 TRX350FE according to the sticker on the front sub-frame.

I gave it a good scrub and it looks ok.

My list looks like this so far:
1. Battery status. When I got it, I was told the battery was almost new. The battery certainly had juice to start it everytime I tried for the first couple months. Sitting all this time now however, it's not so new so it's on the charger and we'll see if that can be resurrected. Battery Tender Jr on order as a good measure for either this battery or a replacement.

2. The carb needs to be rebuilt or at minimum cleaned. If I leave the petcock "ON", I get a fuel drip, so I'm guessing the float is probably stuck open. A good cleaning hopefully will take care of this. If not, is there a preferred replacement "plug&play" carb people use to swap out the stocker? Turning the petcock "OFF" stops the drip.

3. Airbox has either oil or fuel in the bottom of it. Haven't stuck my finger in there yet. Are these an oil bath airbox or is that fluid (either one) not supposed to be there? And if not, what's a good cause of why it's there?

4. Shifting was what I'd call somewhat problematic when I first got it. I'm thinking I just want to get it running dependably first then address this aspect.

5. Tires are shot so I'll need a full set. At the moment it's got Bridgestone Dirt Hooks. I've tried to find those again but am not having much luck. Any suggestions on a tire that's about the same profile as these? This will be used primarily on a 26 acre mostly grassy field for landscape maintenance. Nothing super aggressive is required.

6. The choke cable is not affixed well on the little holding bracket on the left barset. Need to figure out how that's affixed and address it.

7. Rear stop/tail light lens is broken so that'll need replacement.

Any thoughts on my project questions would be much appreciated.


The 350's were horrible about carb floats not sealing. Aftermarket carbs are a crapshoot, and the overwhelming majority of them are crap. I would rebuild the one you have. I took a small dremel polishing stone and polished the seat in mine and it stopped leaking.


Airbox probably has fuel in it. Make sure the carb didn't overflow a bunch of gas into your crankcase.


Shifting on an ES can be iffy battery, clutch adjustment, or you might need to remove the shift motor on the front of the engine and clean the old grease out of the gears under it, and then replace it. The grease gets old and gummy and can cause shifting issues. If you're not sure the battery is good, replace it. The ES bikes need a good battery to shift.


Choke cable is probably broken. They break where they attach to the handlebar bracket. New ones are under $10 so just replace it.


I rebuilt a 350 for my kid. There are some bolt on upgrades using factory parts from other bikes that are worth doing if you're going to be riding it much. Disc brakes from a 420 Rancher and selectable 4wd using a front diff from a 400AT Rancher.


I would look for a set of stock Foreman takeoffs on your local craigslist or Facebook marketplace. People sell new factory wheels and tires for $100-200 all the time when they buy a new bike, because they want fancy wheels and mud tires, and if you get Foreman wheels they will be 12" wheels and finding tires in the future will be much easier
 

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I have 2007 rancher AT 400 4x4 . The gear position display goes from showing 2nd. Gear to - - and blinks 5 times. It is intermittent.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The 350's were horrible about carb floats not sealing. Aftermarket carbs are a crapshoot, and the overwhelming majority of them are crap. I would rebuild the one you have. I took a small dremel polishing stone and polished the seat in mine and it stopped leaking.

I rebuilt it and guess what? Still has a stuck float. Argh....... No different after rebuild than when I got it. You mentioned aftermarket carbs as a crapshoot - the factory carb from Honda is about $350 locally, would that be the next best option? Not really interested in messing with this one again and it takes so dang long to get it in/out I really want to do this just one more time. Any aftermarket carb links/references that are reliable would be appreciated.


Airbox probably has fuel in it. Make sure the carb didn't overflow a bunch of gas into your crankcase.

Oil/filter change was next on the list.... I suppose I can do that cold to eliminate the possibility of "if" fuel made it to the crankcase I'd eliminate that potential issue. I know there wasn't any hydrolock since the overflow tube was clear and it drained all over my garage floor.


Shifting on an ES can be iffy battery, clutch adjustment, or you might need to remove the shift motor on the front of the engine and clean the old grease out of the gears under it, and then replace it. The grease gets old and gummy and can cause shifting issues. If you're not sure the battery is good, replace it. The ES bikes need a good battery to shift.

Thanks for the pointers here


Choke cable is probably broken. They break where they attach to the handlebar bracket. New ones are under $10 so just replace it.

Got the factory replacement, but like above, sheesh - just to get all the covers off looks to be a pain in the rear


I rebuilt a 350 for my kid. There are some bolt on upgrades using factory parts from other bikes that are worth doing if you're going to be riding it much. Disc brakes from a 420 Rancher and selectable 4wd using a front diff from a 400AT Rancher.


I would look for a set of stock Foreman takeoffs on your local craigslist or Facebook marketplace. People sell new factory wheels and tires for $100-200 all the time when they buy a new bike, because they want fancy wheels and mud tires, and if you get Foreman wheels they will be 12" wheels and finding tires in the future will be much easier

Great idea! Thanks.
Comments in RED above. This poor little thing just sits in the tractor barn looking all sad and lonely.... Just need to allocate time to get back on it to get it operational.
 
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