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Discussion Starter #42
So took both jugs and pistons to get them looked at. He said the piston and jug look pretty worn but the scoring doesn't look like anything but normal wear. I told him about sand or whatever could be inside the engine but he said the scoring should be deeper, just surface on the jug and piston. I took 4 pages from the SM with all the specs he needs and will take a look Monday. If it is OK and just needs a hone and the piston is OK we will just put new rings on it.


But he had doubts that will be the case. So they will do the smallest bore on the extra jug that it needs, only thing is they are gonna want to put a new piston in, neither one I have. I think thats a good idea myself at this stage. So should know Monday where we are at.


As far as the head goes, I talked to the mechanic who worked on it last winter and he said he replaced no parts, just lapped. So I will be replacing the valve parts, he did say the guides were good tho. I will get the Shindy valves, thanks for letting me know about them....
 

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Discussion Starter #45
So here's what's going on with my engine problem. Things have changed abit, the 2 jugs and pistons are over at the shop. He called today and said before he makes a decision on the jugs he would like to have a new piston. We decided to get another 1mm oversize for two reasons. The old piston is pretty worn and wants a new one to check the original jug, it may work, just a hone. If not he will bore the extra jug to fit the 1mm new piston. I ordered a Wiseco, got the piston kit and a top end gasket kit for $117 shipped.



Now the update, I had concerns about the rod end where the wrist pin fits, there is a slight bit of wobble. While out taking a look at that issue, I noticed the rod had quite alot of wiggle sideways. I compared it to my spare engine and that had very little. So I had my mechanic friend out Sunday to take a look and he said he would not use it that way. So I have a couple options, neither one I wanted to do. Option one is to split it open to replace to crank and who knows what else. After looking at the SM I have concerns about doing this, first the transmission has to be removed to get the crank out and second it says I need a hydraulic press to remove the crank and balancer. Sounds beyond my capability. So second option I have seen bottom half engine assemblies for sale. I am looking at this one, just want to talk to the seller with some questions.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Forem...8081%7Ciid%3A1


I will have to pull my engine which I am working on, and remove front and rear covers and assemblies to swap over. Any ideas on what I am thinking??
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I have an issue removing the engine. There is a step to remove the reverse control cable end from the lever. It looks similar to removing the throttle cable from the carb but I can't figure it out. Can I just remove the reverse stopper arm marked with OUT by the bolt??
 

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I take the cable off the back of the motor. 10mm bolt or nut, take it off, pull the arm off. The hole in the arm is D shaped so it just slides off once you remove the bolt/nut, and then will only go back on properly indexed.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I take the cable off the back of the motor. 10mm bolt or nut, take it off, pull the arm off. The hole in the arm is D shaped so it just slides off once you remove the bolt/nut, and then will only go back on properly indexed.

Thanks figured it was the easier way to go. The last thing before I get the engine out...
 

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And don't do like I did and put it back on with the OUT stamped on it facing inward, it won't work lol. Make sure when ya put it back on you can read OUT or you'll never get it on. I felt like an idiot, but the more I do the more I learn! Knowledge is power ?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So I did order the bottom core from PSN and should be here tomorrow or Tuesday. Gonna remove the front and rear cases from my engine and transfer everything over. The piston kit came in and over at the shop, they will double check the first jug and if not ok will bore the spare jug. Then put the new valve parts in the head amd put her all together.


Did get the engine removed yesterday little bit of a challenge. Had to figure out how to tip to slide out the left side. Thinking lining up the rear drive might be a task.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
So a few things have changed since my last post. The bottom core was delivered and after taking a look at it I found the connecting rod had some wobble to it. I measured and it was .025" and the SM says that is about the max allowed. I called PSN and talked to their parts man and described what I had found. He said pack it up and send back for a full refund. They had another one listed on Ebay and I asked if they would measure that one for connecting rod wobble before I ordered that one. I have not heard from them but have since decided to build up my spare engine. The crank on that one has hardly any wobble and the wrist pin fit is tight so why not use that and build around it? I already had the spare engine split so I started today scraping gaskets and cleaning up both halves of the split. I will be working on the front and rear covers tomorrow. I bought a couple cans of Gunk and some brushes and went at it, they came out pretty good. All but one of the bearings are in very good shape and spin free both directions after I blew the water away and oiled them. I messed up 1 of the bearings myself so I will need to order that one. Posted a couple pics of the halves...
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I need to replace a few bearings, the ones with access on the back should be easy to pop out. I have 2 with no back access, what is the easiest way to pop these out? I'm sure there is a tool for that but doubt I have one, one is the small bearing on the front cover where the shift motor attaches. Thanks....
 

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I need to replace a few bearings, the ones with access on the back should be easy to pop out. I have 2 with no back access, what is the easiest way to pop these out? I'm sure there is a tool for that but doubt I have one, one is the small bearing on the front cover where the shift motor attaches. Thanks....
I heat chainsaw cases to 300° in a oven and the bearings will fall out as they cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Any updates?
Yes sorry I haven't posted much lately. I ordered gasket and oil seal kits, a few bearings, all valve parts, and other oddball things. Got my bored jug back, they installed the rings on it and marked where to put them on top of the new piston. My parts finished coming in last week and I just started rebuilding today. I have been busy with other summer projects and jobs. I had torn apart and split my spare engine and am pretty much gonna use most of it to rebuild. From the looks of things I believe it has quite a few less hours than the engine I removed. The crank has no wobble and the wrist pin hole is tight compared to my removed engine. The split front and back and covers are much cleaner than the other. So my removed engine pretty much is going to be my spare now. I got the crank, balancer, and tranny parts installed today in the rear split. I lined up the lines on the crank and balancer and am making sure I can turn the drum thru the gears watching the tranny movement. Hope to finish putting the splits together tomorrow then start with all the other parts under the covers. So that's where I am...
 

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Discussion Starter #57
new update:

Fun times, went out this morning and my put together rear half had fallen off the box I set it on last night. Crank and balancer still good, reverse idler gear assembly still together, main shaft pretty much together, but everything slid off the countershaft in a pile of gears and parts! Gotta get the SM breakout to see if I can get it back together, very disgusted with myself today. Thought I had done a great job getting things assembled, will try again.....
 

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Discussion Starter #58
So got everything cleaned up and put back together. Put all the trans parts in but when rotating the drum the middle fork seemed to be binding. So took another look at the break out and found a gear was upside down. This time the drum spun and went thru the gears better. So then I was ready to put the front case on but just wasn't sure about the crank alignment. It was wrong see pic!! So got some help to figure it out and this time got it installed and aligned correctly, see pic. Got the trans installed again and the split is no longer split! So tomorrow start with the parts that were removed to split the engine. Will not set a speed record putting back together but hope to do it right...
 

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Discussion Starter #59
So front and back assembled looks like its piston time. I don't have a compression tool for the rings how do you guys do this and how many hands does it take?
 
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