both the HL kit and the xtreme kit on our bikes rattle, there is no clips to hold the pads in place like on a car. They just set in the mounts and are able to move around. As soon as I get a chance I am going to try to fab up some type of mount clip.
disc brake noise
when my disc brakes clack w/ every turn of the tire what is makeing that noise
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well when you do that put some pictures on your website so i can make mine or ill fab up something
sorry i forgot to say thanks
yeah mine do that as well and i have the hl kit...i can hear it sometimes but i just ignore it anymore...
if I'm not mistaken there is a sealed plunger in them and are able to set up and hold a slite positive pressure on the caliber to keep the pads snug to the rotor and eliminating the rattling. But I would think the pads would wear out pretty quick. There are similar devices used in the industrial field mounted on pressure gauges to keep them from getting plugged or contaminated.
I am not a 100% sure, but thats what they look like to me.
I am not a 100% sure, but thats what they look like to me.
I just got my Xtreme kit and am installing tomorrow. I wonder if a set of thin lite springs between the pads would be enough to keep pressure off and stop from rattling? Maybe I'll give it a shot during install.
there's enough room on the plunger side, but on the outside there is no room at all. A spring might work, but if it is to stiff the pads will be shot in no time.
I know, gotta look for the perfect spring, and make sure it wont rust away. But I was thinking to put the spring in between the pads, one on each side to keep them pressed away from the rotor. On a car the clips hold the pads away from the rotor and only the force of the piston is what holds it to the rotor. I'm thinking that maybe it will just be enough to keep it from rattling. Again, I gotta find a thin, small, stainless or non-steel rustproof spring. Thats going to be hard enough, then to have it actually work may be too much to ask. We'll see, I'm going to look in the morning and see if I can find anything.
QUOTE ("modman")
Are you guys sure the noise you are hearing is the brakes? Bad outer CV joints will make a clattering noise when the wheels are turned.
At any rate I would not use any thing that kept the disk brakes applied while I was riding. Disk Brakes are not designed to run that way. Cars use such a valve on Drum Brakes but it is not strong enough to cause the brake shoes to drag on the drum. It is designed to keep a slight pressure against the return springs. Since disks dont have a return spring they dont work well with that type of set up.
The pads and rotors will wear out quickly, and the brakes will fade due to overheating. you will loose power because you are riding around with the brakes on all the time.What you guys think of a small residual pressure line valve instead?
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Wilwood - 950-260-1874 17.99.
Are you guys sure the noise you are hearing is the brakes? Bad outer CV joints will make a clattering noise when the wheels are turned.
At any rate I would not use any thing that kept the disk brakes applied while I was riding. Disk Brakes are not designed to run that way. Cars use such a valve on Drum Brakes but it is not strong enough to cause the brake shoes to drag on the drum. It is designed to keep a slight pressure against the return springs. Since disks dont have a return spring they dont work well with that type of set up.
QUOTE ("Sparkey":5xuu6kyw)
From the wilwood website:
WILWOOD RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVES:
These in-line pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel in both disc and drum brake systems. The two pound valve is used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers and fluid drain back occurs from gravity and vibration, thereby causing excessive caliper piston retraction and a longer brake pedal stroke. The minimal two pound residual pressure prevents fluid from flowing back without causing the brakes to drag. With drum brakes, a ten pound valve is used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums. Residual Pressure Valves are made from billet aluminum and color coded for easy identification. Ideal for drag racing, street rod and many off road applications.
Here is what wilwood brakes has to say about it. I already ordered 2lb one for this project. I will post my results once we get the motor back in this project and some miles on it. What I am not sure is where the rattle is coming from. Is it the gap between the pads and the rotors or is it the caliper mount itself? I have yet to install these so I am behind some of you at the moment. I have to say I was not all that impressed with the rotors when I took them out of the box. 2lbs may be too much pressure and cause them to drag all the time. Thicker pads or a thicker rotor may be in order as well. We shall see.At any rate I would not use any thing that kept the disk brakes applied while I was riding. Disk Brakes are not designed to run that way. Cars use such a valve on Drum Brakes but it is not strong enough to cause the brake shoes to drag on the drum. It is designed to keep a slight pressure against the return springs. Since disks dont have a return spring they dont work well with that type of set up.
From the wilwood website:
WILWOOD RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVES:
These in-line pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel in both disc and drum brake systems. The two pound valve is used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers and fluid drain back occurs from gravity and vibration, thereby causing excessive caliper piston retraction and a longer brake pedal stroke. The minimal two pound residual pressure prevents fluid from flowing back without causing the brakes to drag. With drum brakes, a ten pound valve is used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums. Residual Pressure Valves are made from billet aluminum and color coded for easy identification. Ideal for drag racing, street rod and many off road applications.
Well I put them in and used a lite spring as I described. This does not keep the pads on the rotor, it keeps them off the rotor. The spring goes between the pads on the posts. There is no problem as the brakes work fine, the spring is not that strong. First off the springs I got are steel and will rust so I will be taking them off rather soon, If they work I will look for stainless or something else. Second I have one concern about them, I am worried about mud or something caking in them and holding the pads out so no brakes? this is unlikely but something I'll be watching. Also there is a concern that it may not be as good when the pads wear down. Anyway at the moment they look like they will work.
post some pics with the spring installed and keep us posted on how it works
I'll get some pics asap. I rode this weekend and brakes worked great. I kept checking them and at least what I am able to see it looked fine. I was in plenty of mud and no issues at all, I let it dry up overnite friday and sat I got on it and everything worked fine. Now heres a new issue, and I'm not convinced I'm right about whats making this noise. When I am going downhill during engine braking I started getting what sounds like a loud grinding and it sounds like its coming from the warn 424 shaft. Now I had the 424 on the last time I was out and never heard this noise, the only thing I've done is the brakes. So if anyone understands what noise I'm talking about and has a different opinion I'd love to hear it? I did what I could to pinpoint the noise and it sounds like the shaft but I could be wrong. If its the brakes then the spring isn't working. Also the noise is sporadic, it doesn't always happen, maybe 60% of the time.
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