CV Boot Replacement

24658 Views 14 Replies 12 Participants Last post by martdog420, Aug 7, 2010

Robb

Discussion Starter · Feb 14, 2007

These pictures and write up was sent to me by: Eric - Yooperforeman.

Thanks for the great work!

I took some pictures while replacing a c.v. boot on a 2003 Rancher.This procedure should be the same for any 4x4 Honda model.
Picture 1 shows the right wheel tunrned outward and the leaking C.V. boot:

Picture 2 shows the wheel removed and the hub nut.Remove the cotterpin and use a 22MM socket to remove the hub nut:

Picture 3 demonstrates where to strike with a hammer to separate the knuckle from the ball joints after removing the cotterpins and use a 17MM wrench to remove the balljoint nuts.

Picture 4 shows the knuckle separated from both balljoints.I didn't separate the outer tierod,I used a bungee to hang the brake ass'y. out of the way:

Picture 5 demonstrate using a prybay to "pop" the inner c.v. from the differential:

Picture 6 demonstrates using a hammer and punch to release the outer c.v. from the shaft.(I already cut the boot off with a knife to take a better
picture):

Picture 7: I was trying to show how the new boot clamps need to be installed.You must fold the clamp over and then bend the tabs over the strap.

I hope this helps someone.If there are any questions,I'd be glad to answer them. Yooperforeman.

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Yooperforeman

· #2 · Feb 14, 2007

Thanks for posting that Robb.I'd like to add something.When re-installing the upper balljoint cotterpin,pay attention when bending over the cotterpins,I can see if one bent it the wrong way the cotterpin might catch the boot and tear it.
I'd like to do some more HOW-TO's soon.I'll send them to you.

mudder fudder

· #3 · Apr 11, 2007

Just to add a little something to this, if you want to be a little quicker and possibly a little easier, instead of trying to seperate the knuckle from loose the ball joint, just remove the 2 bolts from the A-Arm at the frame. The A Arm will come loose and no hammer hitting is necessary. Just did this this past Friday. I changed my factory axles out to Gorilla Axles and this was the easiest way. It took less than an hour on each side. This included changing the shocks and brakes! Just an idea! But the pictures are accurate as well!

IDigem1

· #4 · Sep 25, 2007

Another addition,,, good article by the way , but i do not even separate the upper , just the lower , and tie the whole assy up and out of the way!!

bowz

· #5 · Oct 9, 2007

beautifull how to post! i will be using it

bowz

PistonHed

· #6 · Nov 3, 2007

Mudder Fudder that works great much eaiser than trying to break the ball joints loose.I had to take the lower bolt out of my shock to get enough room to get the axle out.I am having to replace wheel bearings.Mine rusted up must have gotten water in there some how.The end of the CV joint is rusted where it rides on the seals any ideas on how to repair this and is that most likely where the water got in?

dirty4man

· #7 · Nov 3, 2007

PistonHed as long as the surface is not pitted or grooved to bad, just use some lite grit sand paper to clean up the mating surface.

PistonHed

· #8 · Nov 5, 2007

Thanks for the help I cleaned it up. Went and got the moose bearing kit you guys were talking about on another post worked great looks like a better product than OEM. Just got to get the brakes back in shape they look real bad.

bad97foreman

· #9 · Apr 11, 2008

they must have changed things between 97 and 03 cause i didnt use a prybar on mine it had a split ring holding it in(figured that out after getting all the grease out of the way) and mine had a snap ring holding the bearing on, just removed it and slide the bearing off. good post though, great pics.

myfly

· #10 · Apr 29, 2008

Having a time getting upper balljoint to separate , am i gonna need a separater or is there another trick?? Need to replace the wheel bearings

thanks

Yooperforeman

· #11 · Apr 29, 2008

You also could unbolt the shock and then unbolt the upper control arm from the frame.

myfly

· #12 · Apr 30, 2008

My god that just seemed too easy, thanks!! i know what ill be doing the next time.

wendell

· #13 · Jul 3, 2009

QUOTE (Robb @ Feb 13 2007, 10:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=61474

These pictures and write up was sent to me by: Eric - Yooperforeman.

Thanks for the great work!

I took some pictures while replacing a c.v. boot on a 2003 Rancher.This procedure should be the same for any 4x4 Honda model.
Picture 1 shows the right wheel tunrned outward and the leaking C.V. boot:

Picture 2 shows the wheel removed and the hub nut.Remove the cotterpin and use a 22MM socket to remove the hub nut:

Picture 3 demonstrates where to strike with a hammer to separate the knuckle from the ball joints after removing the cotterpins and use a 17MM wrench to remove the balljoint nuts.

Picture 4 shows the knuckle separated from both balljoints.I didn't separate the outer tierod,I used a bungee to hang the brake ass'y. out of the way:

Picture 5 demonstrate using a prybay to "pop" the inner c.v. from the differential:

Picture 6 demonstrates using a hammer and punch to release the outer c.v. from the shaft.(I already cut the boot off with a knife to take a better
picture):

Picture 7: I was trying to show how the new boot clamps need to be installed.You must fold the clamp over and then bend the tabs over the strap.

I hope this helps someone.If there are any questions,I'd be glad to answer them. Yooperforeman.

keityc

· #14 · Aug 7, 2010

I tried to open pics but would not open

martdog420

· #15 · Aug 7, 2010

keityc said:
I tried to open pics but would not open

search utube.... there are a lot of videos on this topic. I found out one day by typing in "broken polaris" (was makin fun of a buddys atv) and I was surprised what came up.

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