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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok let me preface this by saying my bike was running like a top prior to a certain offroad shop just north of Hattiesburg putting a half-**** snorkel on it. Their work has been a disaster to say the least, but I have gotten most of that fixed at this point. The only real problem left is that the bike doesn't seem to run right. It runs fine until you hit the high RPMs - then it starts to miss or pop as you get close to the rev limiter.

I had the exhaust, K&N filter, and Dynojet kit installed by the Honda dealership last summer. It has run great ever since. They installed the 170 main jet from the Dynojet kit in it at that time.

Two weeks ago I had a snorkel installed at a shop that claimed to know what they were doing - they apparently did not, but now I can not get the bike to run correctly. They installed a 1.5" snorkel started with hard pipe at the airbox, then to flexpipe, and then back to hardpipe for the riser up thru the fender. The bike runs fine just cruising around, but as soon as you hammer on the throttle it starts to pop as you get close to the rev limiter. I don't ever remember even getting close to the rev limiter before - I don't know if it possible for the rev limiter to kick in earlier for some reason?

After pulling the plug the bike is running rich, so we backed the main down to 165 with little change, and then backed it down to the stock jet which was a 162. It seems to have improved slightly, but it is still popping and the rev limiter is still kicking in earlier than it used to (or at least it seems too).

Am I missing something? I had a guy much more knowledgeable with carbs than myself over tonight and he couldn't seem to get it dialed in correctly after working on it for three hours. Unfortunately he wasn't really familiar with tuning Honda utility ATVs (does mx bikes mostly) so he didn't really know how it should be running.

I definitely don't ever remember hitting the rev limiter that quick before - I can't remember ever bouncing off of it when I was hammering on the throttle before. Now it seems to getting there much sooner - like I lost some range between idle and rev limiter? Is that even possible?
 

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have u checked ur plug to see if ur running rich or lean? thats the 1st place to start
 

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You should be running a 2" snorkel. It sounds like the fuel air mixture screw is set wrong. Lots of issues. Pull the air box cover and see if it runs better. Just some quick thoughts.
 

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You should be running a 2" snorkel. It sounds like the fuel air mixture screw is set wrong. Lots of issues. Pull the air box cover and see if it runs better. Just some quick thoughts.
Right! There are alot of little things like that you can do. When I snorkled mine I didnt have to re-jet running 2" pipe but I probably could..... I just messed around with the way it takes in air and did some fine tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The plug was black - running rich. I didn't do the snorkel - a shop claiming they knew what they were doing did and unfortunately at this point I think I am stuck with a 1.5" snorkel because of how they cut the plastic and routed everything. They did a lot that I wasn't happy with - got black spray paint all over my plastics because they decided to paint everything AFTER it was installed on my bike; didn't use PVC glue on all the joints; my plastics were bulging bad and not fitting correctly because of how they routed the flexpipe. It has been a nightmare to say the least, but they won't return phone calls or deal with the problem so I'm out the $200 I paid them and whatever else I've spent to this point correcting what I could.

Is a 2" snorkel absolutely necessary? I was under the impression you could just do 1.5" all the way since you have to use 1.5" going into the airbox anyway? I will try and get some pictures loaded shortly.
 

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sounds like ur gonna need a 2" snorkel all the way. if ur running rich u need alot more air. ride with ur air box lid off for a few minutes and see if it makes any difference.
u can fit 2" into the air box. just gotta taper the end, lube it up and shove it in. u should know the procedure. lol

my snorkel cost me about 35 bucks installed. i made it all myself
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok just to be clear - are we talking about inside diameter or outside diameter on the tubing? What I am using right now is 1.5" inside diameter - outside diameter is right at 2". I just went and looked at 2" inside diameter tubing and it seems HUGE compared to all of the snorkles I see. I couldn't even find 2" inside diameter flex tube.
 

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Yes 2" inside
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There shouldn't be any change from just changing the riser to 2" correct? I need to go all the way back to the airbox with 2" ?
 

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yup
 

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I just ran 1.5" sch 80 on mine and i didnt have any problems what so ever. But im also a master plumber to. Didnt have to rejet or adjust the f/a screw at all. And just did the carb mod to with no prob. Guess i just got lucky so far. Got a feeling mines on the way though.
 

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I just ran 1.5" sch 80 on mine and i didnt have any problems what so ever. But im also a master plumber to. Didnt have to rejet or adjust the f/a screw at all. And just did the carb mod to with no prob. Guess i just got lucky so far. Got a feeling mines on the way though.
Does that mean you pride yourself in ******* quad mods?:)
 

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i didn't adjust mine much. i did the carb mod. i'm running 2" all the way to where the snorkel runs along the starter and then goto 1.5" into the air box. i'm also running the stock filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well after a second guy attempting to get it dialed in and failed it is now going back to the original Honda tech who tuned in initially for the K&N/HMF/Dynojets - if he can't get it tuned then it will be time to redo the snorkel from scratch...something I would rather not do.
 

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mine did the same thing that you are describing....changed needles so many times I dreamed about them **** things, adjusted screws to the point of no return....went from an 1-1/2" snorkle to a 2" all the way into the airbox.....she ran like a dream! 2" all the way, seal all of your joints, even if its just taking some silicone caulk and smearing it around all connections, and you should be fine. Also, seal your airbox too or you will suck in water.
I also have an exhaust, kn air filter, soooo more air out needed more air in! Snorkles are a can be a pain in the rear, but they are sooo much fun when ya get em running good and are able to go play in the water.

Keep us posted.
 

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Ok let me preface this by saying my bike was running like a top prior to a certain offroad shop just north of Hattiesburg putting a half-**** snorkel on it. Their work has been a disaster to say the least, but I have gotten most of that fixed at this point. The only real problem left is that the bike doesn't seem to run right. It runs fine until you hit the high RPMs - then it starts to miss or pop as you get close to the rev limiter.

I had the exhaust, K&N filter, and Dynojet kit installed by the Honda dealership last summer. It has run great ever since. They installed the 170 main jet from the Dynojet kit in it at that time.

Two weeks ago I had a snorkel installed at a shop that claimed to know what they were doing - they apparently did not, but now I can not get the bike to run correctly. They installed a 1.5" snorkel started with hard pipe at the airbox, then to flexpipe, and then back to hardpipe for the riser up thru the fender. The bike runs fine just cruising around, but as soon as you hammer on the throttle it starts to pop as you get close to the rev limiter. I don't ever remember even getting close to the rev limiter before - I don't know if it possible for the rev limiter to kick in earlier for some reason?

After pulling the plug the bike is running rich, so we backed the main down to 165 with little change, and then backed it down to the stock jet which was a 162. It seems to have improved slightly, but it is still popping and the rev limiter is still kicking in earlier than it used to (or at least it seems too).

Am I missing something? I had a guy much more knowledgeable with carbs than myself over tonight and he couldn't seem to get it dialed in correctly after working on it for three hours. Unfortunately he wasn't really familiar with tuning Honda utility ATVs (does mx bikes mostly) so he didn't really know how it should be running.

I definitely don't ever remember hitting the rev limiter that quick before - I can't remember ever bouncing off of it when I was hammering on the throttle before. Now it seems to getting there much sooner - like I lost some range between idle and rev limiter? Is that even possible?
I had the exact same problem with my daughters quad after snorkel. It is starving for air at high RPM (increased air demand). I discovered that flexible corrugated tubing was interfering with air flow. Just as corrugated creates turbulence for water flow to wash out sediment it also created turbulence in the air flow somehow affecting the speed at which the air flows. I took it off and it ran perfect. Replaced with exact same diameter smooth flexible pipe and problem was solved. I skipped physics, engineering and aerodynamics so I don’t quite understand the why but it clearly solved the problem.
 

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The solutions are very often far more simple than we imagined. You may indeed dial the fuel flow to match the air but you will be doing so at the cost of engine performance. I drove myself a bit mad about this very issue for two days. Partly because I couldn’t or rather wouldn’t believe that the engine was in fact starving for air.
 
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