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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I carefully read King of the Ozarks how-to on adjusting Foreman 500 valves and prepared myself for my first adjustment. His directions were simple and clear. I adjusted the valves to .006 and put everything back together. I gave it a press on the start button and the valves ping very very load now. I don't know what could be wrong. I was able to find the stamped "T" mark on the crank. It seems like the valves have a very wide gap now but I am certain I used a .006 feeler guage.

Can someone explain how the feeler guage should feel when I insert it? Will I be able to put a .005 or a .007 feeler guage in after I have tightend everything down? I plan on riding this weekend, so could anyone give me a tip on what I need to do? Thanks.
 

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i would say that there is a chance that when you lined up the timing mark, that although you were at top dead center, it was at the end of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake down stroke. remember, there are 4 strokes of the piston in that engine. 2 up and 2 down to complete the full cycle. the best way to find the right place is to remove the valve cover for the intake valve(the one closest to the carb) and roll the engine over(spark plug out makes it easier) until the intake valve depresses. when the rocker arm comes back up, watch for the T mark and this is where you want to be to adjust the valves. this puts the cam shaft on the heel at the rockers. in theory, if the valves are adjusted correctly for .006", a .005" feeler gauge would not go in without some difficulty. the .006" feeler gauge should have a light to moderate drag as it slides between the rocker adjuster and the valve. it is very helpful if an experienced mechanic can show you the first time because they are "feeler" gauges. it also helps considerably if the gauge is prebent or is curved to fit better. this prevents binding and giving a false "feel"
 

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After I set the valves at .006" on my 500 I wasn't happy with the way it sounded either.I did check the clearance before I adjusted them and I couldn't get a .004" in there.I don't think the factory sets them at .006".I went at it a second time and set them to a snug .005".Much better now.I'm positive it was at TDC of the compression stroke and I bent the end of my feeler gauge to get in there easier.Kinda worried me too.I ran the engine before I put all the plastics back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1. intake (induction) stroke
2. compression stroke
3. power (combustion) stroke
4. exhaust stroke

Is the Top Dead Center when the animation changes compression stroke to the power stroke? When the spark plug fires?
<a href="http://www.cs.sbcc.cc.ca.us/~physics/fl" target="_blank">http://www.cs.sbcc.cc.ca.us/~physics/fl ... troke.html</a>

QUOTE ("shooterman":2k9f6tam)
i would say that there is a chance that when you lined up the timing mark, that although you were at top dead center, it was at the end of the exhaust stroke/beginning of the intake down stroke.
After looking at the provided link and reading what you said, I think you are correct. I can remember I watched the exhaust valve move, then I closely watched for the intake valve start to move and found "T" on the flywheel. But, now I think that I did adjust on the wrong stroke. Also, do you guys think the "T" on the flywheel is difficult to see? And, is there anythine else stamped on the flywheel? I could have sworn I saw an "F" also, but my eyes could have been playing tricks on me. It was getting late and my flashlight batteries were starting to get drained.

Thanks again guys for all your help. This forum has great info and great members. I gotta get my atv put back together, I've got some trails to hit.
 

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I saw a "f" too.....not sure what that's for.
 

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i cannot say for sure about the foreman because i have not investigated so far but the "f" mark should preceed the t mark by a few degrees of flywheel rotation. this is probably the timing mark for the sparkplug. one way to find out for sure is to hook up an inductive timing light and at idle you should clearly see the "f" with each strobe.
 

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Yes,I remember seeing the "f" before the "t" when turning the engine over with the pull handle.So,LORCUX,did you end up at .006" valve lash or did you set them on the tight side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE ("plumcuda":xippog9c)
Yes,I remember seeing the "f" before the "t" when turning the engine over with the pull handle.So,LORCUX,did you end up at .006" valve lash or did you set them on the tight side?
I put them a little on the tight side, not much though. I'll run it this weekend and see how it does. First attempt at my valves was just a pure mistake: adjusting on the wrong stroke. This time it was a breeze. Honda dealership wanted $52 to do a valve adjustment. Now, I guess I just need to spend the $50 or so on a Helm Inc. shop manual!
 
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