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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, and thank you for reading through this - I'm heading out west in about 9 days, so I need to make sure I'm good to go.

I've read up on this and could not find the specific information I'm looking for...so I'm hoping a couple of you can give me some peace of mind.

I have a 98' 450s with 1670 miles / 240 hours, and I recently adjusted the valves to the 0.006"/0.15mm clearance. I purchased the quad about 3 years ago, and did a complete baseline maintenance job on it. The only job I ever was questionable about was the valve adjustment - and this is why:

(I make sure it's set at TDC first - just to be clear) Once you loosen the valve adjustment nut and insert the feeler gauge...there is an initial stopping point, and then the upper valve arm (forgive me for not using proper terminology) moves a little bit upwards and allows the 0.006" feeler gauge in. I then turn the set screw until I feel a slight pull, and then tighten the nut and then recheck. Every time I recheck, that initial stopping point is there (like it's too tight initially), and then it opens up a little bit and allows the feeler between. I move the feeler gauge around and feel that slight pull and assume it's good.

The reason I'm concerned - there is a light tinny sounding ticking noise at idle, and when I'm up in 4th and 5th gear, it sounds a lot louder and more pronounced. Granted, this has been there (as far as I can remember) since I've bought it. But, it strikes me as abnormal though, and I want to make sure that I adjusted the valves properly, and they're not too tight.

The question - is that initial stopping point/resistance when you insert the feeler gauge normal? I backed it out so that wasn't there, but then it was opened up to around 0.009/0.01" to feel any pull on the gauge. My guess is that I'm worrying too much about it, and I should just ride it and have fun, but I want to bring it up and make sure I'm not doing something really stupid.

Thanks again for your time reading through this - any feedback is very much appreciated.
 

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Great forum - I'll figure something else out - thanks.
i just joined this forum yesterday so sorry i didn't see your post. i would say you are doing it right. the only thing that comes to mind is if you adjusted it on TDC overlap not TDC compression. you should just feel a lite drag on the gauge and most if not all manufactures give you a + or - .001. i was told by an old timer tech. that you will always have some noise coming from the valve train with those screw and lock nut type and some noise is better then no noise. you would always rather a lose valve train then a tight one. i hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello - thank you for the reply - this is very helpful. I checked both 'TDC' positions to determine actual TDC - the first time the valves were shut, and I couldn't get the feeler gauge in there, so then I turned it one more time and the gauge went in - hence, TDC - correct? After some extensive YouTube research I learned that the valve arm on top is always resting on the valve (hence the initial resistance), and it's never truly open where there is an open gap, but when it's at TDC that upper arm is able to rise up a little bit (the 0.006" clearance needed). Please correct that statement if I'm wrong. So I think I'm good? The gauge had some resistance on it after adjustment, so I believe it's right where it needs to be.

Ever since I bought it, the rig had some very light top-end chatter, and after my first valve adjustment 200 miles ago it has remained pretty much the same. I've read a lot of posts about guys tearing their quads apart to find the cause of the noise, and some just seem to never find it. I've also checked the manifold bolts, and manifold cover bolts (one was loose, but that was not the culprit), and everything else around the top of the engine was nice an snug.

Thanks for your reply!
 
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