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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

First, great site, great community. Thanks for having me.

I'm stumped by the big barrel-shaped 5 pin connector. How do you get it apart? I need to test the pulse generator continuity.... I think.

My '97 Foreman 400 came to me well-used. I adjusted the valves, tune-up, changed fluids and it ran like a top. Then the solenoid went out and I replaced it with a new generic car/truck solenoid and all was good for awhile. Then that solenoid shorted out (my bad wiring) at around the same time the starter wore out which was around the same time the small wires coming out of the solenoid burned up. But, she would start easy enough on the first pull of the rope so, who needs elec start? Then, and this is probably the worst part, it sat for a long time and, of course, wouldn't start so easy anymore. It's been sitting ever since; a few years now. Time to get her going again.

So far, I've replaced the solenoid with another new generic car/truck one (tests good), replaced the burned small wires there, new starter, new VRR, new coil, new battery, repaired the cracked wiring behind the ignition switch (all test good now, 12+V, 'on'), cleaned carb, and bypassed the kill switch. She turns over all day long but no spark.

These connectors can be a pain. I can't figure out the big barrel-shaped 5 pin to test the pulse generator.

More notes: I've tried fully-seating the new VRR but there's no solid >click< into the harness. If I push any harder, or go for more leverage w/channel-locks, something's gonna break. I have to assume it's fully seated. The 'neutral/reverse' and fan motor wires are currently disconnected but I wouldn't imagine that would hinder spark. Headlight works fine, wiring to the running lights is shot/missing but that never made a difference before.

Any advice on how to get into the 5 pin connector, or where to go next with this, is greatly appreciated.
 

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welcome to the forum !
well it sounds like you have a old war horse that just wont die ! that round 5 pin clip can be a PITA to take apart (you have to push and pull the tabs and pull at the same time )you almost need a 2nd set of hands !
if you need a manual just tell me ....i can pm you one
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I reconnected the neutral indicator wire thinking maybe it's connected to a switch (safety) so you don't accidentally start the engine in gear. Hit the starter and POOF more magic smoke seen billowing from various points in the wiring harness.

I think I've narrowed it down to the G/R (green/red stripe) wire which I see now also connects to the starter solenoid, the neutral/reverse switch, the ICM, and a diode somewhere up front.

Jim Beam and I are gonna take a li'l break on the rocks then commence the tracing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I've traced the wire to the diode which also tests good. I would think that indicates the source of the problem is either the neutral switch at the transmission or the solenoid.

Does anyone know if it's ok to use a generic 12V 4 post solenoid/relay? Everyone I've talked to says it's just an on/off switch and shouldn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Found a comment online about checking the stator: check for continuity between the stator pins (which I believe connect to the 3 yellow wires in the 5p connector out of the engine case). Check 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 and should be little/no resistance. Then check each of those to the negative battery terminal; should be full resistance. I hope I understood that correctly. Anyway, my 3 wires check out like the mechanic suggested which should mean the stator is ok. If so, I think that only leaves the ICM/CDI.

I think I found 3 possible part numbers for replacement: 30410-HM7-010, 30410-HM7-003 (replaces -010), and 30410-HN0-A01.

Anyone have recent experience replacing their ICM/CDI? Recommendations?
 

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You should have continuity between the 3 yellow wires and none to ground. The pulse generator part is what you want to test for ignition though. FYI green is ground on these machines. Most likely you didn't hurt anything with the coil though. The most common thing to go bad on these is the regulator/rectifier (you won't find that in the ign part of the manual either). The smoking harness part scares me a little on trying to guess what might be wrong. Light green/red stripe wire runs from the solenoid to the CDI unit and is a ground trigger so if that got powered at some point it's possible it shorted something in the CDI.

What you really need is a donor machine to swap some parts with and test stuff. That might not be possible so just go through all the checks in the service manual and see what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the response TooDeep. In fact, the light green/red stripe wire is the one that fried. And, wonder of wonders, I found a little disclaimer note that came with the generic solenoid (see previous posts here). It reads, "Do not use this solenoid with engine control computer...Will result in permanent damage to the computer/processor." I'm sure I read that when I hooked the first one up a few years ago and figured this machine didn't have a computer. Maybe the ICM/CDI is close enough to a computer and did get zapped. The lessons just keep on comin.

I suppose I'll order a new ICM/CDI and cross my fingers again. Any experience with Rick's Hot Shot CDI box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Plugged in the new CDI, hooked up the battery, confirmed neutral light is on, hit the starter, good cranking but, no sputter, no fire, no spark.

Could the new VRR have gotten fried before I put in the correct relay? I hope not but even if it did, I can't just keep fishing by replacing parts every few days. This is dang annoying. Seems like it has to be something simple. I noticed the oil light did not come on. Could that inhibit spark?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
She's alive. Turns out that generic relay DID fry all the ignition wiring. Found and replaced the breaks and she starts fine now. In getting to all that wiring, I've removed front and rear fenders. Found tons of dirt, wires that used to go to running lights, and a clean break through a cross tube between frame rails back up under the seat.

I want to clean up all the wiring. Anyone know of any issues/problems if I just remove all the non-essential wiring: running lights at least? I want to get it down to bare bones electrical, new wires for the important stuff and everything else... gone.
 
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