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Heres a video of the clicking sound. The dash and not being able to change gears happened twice and key off then on solved it but the clicking sound is new. I had to pull the 40 amp fuse under the seat to get it to go away. I called the dealer before the clicking sound from this weekend and they said not being able to change gears with a dash is dirty oil. Oil changed by dealer at 100km, bike has about 700km now. I cant see it being an oil issue.
 

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LoL. Dirty oil. I think mine was a misshift either from sensor error, tight tolerance that will loosen up over time, or a weak shift motor. I took mine on another trip with about 5 hours of riding and it hasn't recreated. I am hoping its a thing of the past but I know where my manual shift lever is on the bike just in case.
 

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I got mine back after waiting 6 weeks for a back ordered part. I'm not sure what fixed it but here is what they did:
1st - replaced the Angle Sensor
2nd - replaced the shift motor
3rd - replaced the neutral safety switch
It seems to be working now but I'm not impressed!
 

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As a follow up to my video above, I took it to the local dealer this week and it showed 2 error codes...22-1 and 57-2.

They said that Honda Canada wont do anything on the first visit but if it happens again, Honda Canada has a 6 hour very detailed process that they want the dealers to do to capture data. They said Honda Canada does not have an official fix but they have been replacing sensors or even changed the main computer on one machine based on the feedback from Honda Canada after doing the 6 hour test.

I was also told that this transmission configuration has been in use since 2016 and they have not seen the problem on any machine except 2020 & 2021 models.

I must have been dreaming about the comment from the service guy about it being an oil issue. When I asked them about that today, nobody had heard anything about that.

So the test will come tomorrow as we are heading out for a leisurely ride. I did the same ride 3 weeks ago with no issue.
 

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I got mine back and the shop said that they pulled a code from the computer:

57-2 GEAR POSITION MALFUNCTION (JUMPS OUT OF GEAR)

They cleared the code and did an inspection of the TP Sensor and harness and said it showed it was ok. Then they rode it for 20-30 minutes and the code didn't recreate. Then they called corporate honda's tech and they said basically to ride it and see if it breaks again.

I did take it to wisconsin over the weekend and rode it on the trails for about 10 hours between two days and didn't have any issues. I can only assume TP Sensor is throttle position sensor and am not sure why they didn't investigate the shift angle sensor. I picked up one of those to have on hand and if it happens again I will swap it out and see what happens.

I also have the 2020 Rubicon Deluxe. Bought it New about 6 months ago,I have about 125 miles on it now. I am also experiencing the same problems with the shifting process hanging up. It has happened about 5 times now.
I do not use the auto shift feature. I drive in tight and technical terrain and I think it is way too busy, constantly shifting up and down, I only manual shift with the buttons. ( It always shifts down to first automatically as I slow down).
The first time It hung up I limped it home in 2nd gear fearing a no go if I shut it off. I was stopped for a few minutes idling still engaged in first gear. I went to take off and I think it was stuck in second gear, as It bogged taking off I was able to drive about 12mph. Then I realized the negative sign blinking on the dash and the gear indicator wasn't working. The shift buttons weren't working. The Auto Shift would not work either.

I have now learned if I shut it off, wait a few seconds, then turn the key on, I hear several shifting clicks ( usually 2 or 3) take place then after a moment, the indicator lights back up with the gear it was currently in when I stopped. I have never seen any blinking or codes displayed. I then shift into neutral, then first, then take off. It happens randomly with no rhythm to the cause. Every time it has happened It seems to be when I am in second gear. Happens roughly an hour inbetween events.

I just visited my Selling dealer ( Well known, very large Powersports Dealer ) and they are nearly out of business. I can't believe their showroom was empty. It used to have about 200 new machines on display, now they only have a few used junky units.. I travelled an hour to a competing Large Dealer and same story. All due to this Corona virus, and I will not leave my machine with the any of them right now.

I'm going to keep an eye out on the forums and see if anybody has success with an answer. Meanwhile, I am going to see if I can figure it out myself.

Any replies will be appreciated.
 

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Hello, my 2020 Rubicon DCT has had shift issues as well. It has happened at least 15 times while upshifting in ESP mode to me in the first 150 miles and thrown a code of 5 long blinks followed by 7 quick blinks or a code of 2 long blinks followed by 7 quick blinks. Also I have had issues when shifting between reverse and 1st gear or 1st gear to reverse gear where it will make 3 or 4 attempts to shift into gear, then defaults to neutral instead. Then you have to try again. Only one time ever has it thrown an error when coasting to a stop while in Auto mode as it was downshifting, same code 5 long blinks followed by 7 quick blinks. Each time I was stuck in whatever gear it threw the code at and had the same issues with keying off then on and getting the noises as it attempts to get you back to neutral.

The thing I began to realize is all issues occurred when I had dropped throttle to upshift in ESP mode (as the owners manual states to do), or when the vehicle was at idle to shift between reverse and 1st gear, or in the one case coasting to a stop - in other words all low RPM situations. Seems to me like there is a correlation between low engine RPM causing possible low voltage to the shift motor or maybe a weak shift motor. I would think stator output would follow engine RPM. Seems like the shifts sound weaker when idling or dropping the throttle between shifts then when constantly on the throttle when in Auto mode. It got me thinking, what would happen if I tried upshifting in ESP mode without dropping the throttle between shifts? It doesn't drop throttle in Auto mode so why would it need to in ESP mode? Sure enough, it has not thrown another code while doing this in 200+ more miles. The issue with shifting between 1st and reverse is still there but I believe the weak shift at idle (again low RPM situation) is the problem. It doesn't throw a code for this, it just doesn't complete the shift, so you have to initiate it another time or two....kind of annoying. The problem must have followed the new reverse system since this seems to affect 2020-2021 models. I really hope Honda is working on a campaign to fix this for everybody. It's obviously not happening to just one or two machines. My history of good luck with Hondas goes way back and I expect this one to be no different. They rarely have issues and Honda has always made it right when a rare issue like this has came up in my experience.
 

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Hello, my 2020 Rubicon DCT has had shift issues as well. It has happened at least 15 times while upshifting in ESP mode to me in the first 150 miles and thrown a code of 5 long blinks followed by 7 quick blinks or a code of 2 long blinks followed by 7 quick blinks. Also I have had issues when shifting between reverse and 1st gear or 1st gear to reverse gear where it will make 3 or 4 attempts to shift into gear, then defaults to neutral instead. Then you have to try again. Only one time ever has it thrown an error when coasting to a stop while in Auto mode as it was downshifting, same code 5 long blinks followed by 7 quick blinks. Each time I was stuck in whatever gear it threw the code at and had the same issues with keying off then on and getting the noises as it attempts to get you back to neutral.

The thing I began to realize is all issues occurred when I had dropped throttle to upshift in ESP mode (as the owners manual states to do), or when the vehicle was at idle to shift between reverse and 1st gear, or in the one case coasting to a stop - in other words all low RPM situations. Seems to me like there is a correlation between low engine RPM causing possible low voltage to the shift motor or maybe a weak shift motor. I would think stator output would follow engine RPM. Seems like the shifts sound weaker when idling or dropping the throttle between shifts then when constantly on the throttle when in Auto mode. It got me thinking, what would happen if I tried upshifting in ESP mode without dropping the throttle between shifts? It doesn't drop throttle in Auto mode so why would it need to in ESP mode? Sure enough, it has not thrown another code while doing this in 200+ more miles. The issue with shifting between 1st and reverse is still there but I believe the weak shift at idle (again low RPM situation) is the problem. It doesn't throw a code for this, it just doesn't complete the shift, so you have to initiate it another time or two....kind of annoying. The problem must have followed the new reverse system since this seems to affect 2020-2021 models. I really hope Honda is working on a campaign to fix this for everybody. It's obviously not happening to just one or two machines. My history of good luck with Hondas goes way back and I expect this one to be no different. They rarely have issues and Honda has always made it right when a rare issue like this has came up in my experience.
Upland, First let me say Thank You for taking the time to write such a detailed description. I have read and re read it several times to absorb what you describe. I would like to add some information regarding my issue.
My Rubi shifts into and out of reverse flawlessly. It has never given me an issue with that. Some of the trails I drive on are tight and difficult trails and I use reverse quite frequently.

I haven't been able to pin down a particular scenario as to when it happens. Each time the circumstances were different for me.

One time I was driving in third gear and stopped to talk to someone. I did not downshift from 3rd, and I sat still idling for a few minutes, when I took off it was stuck in 2nd gear and wouldn't shift down or up and apparently the computer did not shift to 1st when I stopped. The shift indicator was blank and blinking a dash symbol. I limped it home in 2nd gear.
Another time while in 3rd gear I was climbing a long steep hill, midway up while under a load, I let off the throttle slightly and tried to downshift and nothing happened, I think it was stuck in 3rd gear ( the gear indicator was blinking with a dash symbol so, I did not know what gear I was actually in ) causing me to bog down and stop. I had to cycle the key off and on, I could hear some clicking then restarted the engine and the problem was gone. I had to shift into low range and put it into 4wd to get the momentum I needed to continue up the hill.
It was a dangerous situation and kind of annoyed me as it could have ended badly.
I too have noticed it shifts better without changing the throttle postion. I just change gears when I need to and it seems much smoother.
I will keep you guys posted as I continue riding. Thanks to all who take the time to reply. Maybe we can find some common ground here.
 

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badzook, although some of your shifting issues differ slightly from mine, I think it all comes from a common cause. I haven't had the issue with mine not downshifting all the way to 1st gear while stopped like you, but I will say I've payed close attention to it and mine sounds like it's barely completing those downshifts when I am stopped. There might be just a slight difference in friction of components between yours and mine. The noise of the shift motor sounds way too weak in my opinion or at least in comparison to my previous Honda ATV. The shift motor on that one sounded way more solid when actuating and that one was 22 yrs old and still going strong! Granted it was a different transmission altogether than these DCT's. But in any case if the shift dogs don't have the power to pull out of one gear pocket and align and properly lock into the next gear pocket whether upshifting or downshifting, it's likely going to throw an error code since a full shift sequence was not completed. Then you see the dash mark on the gear position indicator and associated code blinks. My guess is if you key off and key back on and the shift drum is not in the proper location (due to the incomplete shift) the PGM-FI tells it to get that thing into neutral asap and the repeated sound (like on the scottfillmore video) is the shifter pawl trying to grab the shift drum but it can't because it's stuck in between gear positions. Some have had luck rolling the machine ahead which may be enough to get the shift drum to snap into a gear so the pawl can grab it on the next key on attempt but I'm guessing the DCT clutches are released at this time so this doesn't always work since there would be no torque to transmit through the clutch pack.
 

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Try rocking it when shifting down or into reverse, same as you have to do on a foot shift....
The gearing is the same just weak electronics shifting instead of a manual shift
 

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badzook, although some of your shifting issues differ slightly from mine, I think it all comes from a common cause. I haven't had the issue with mine not downshifting all the way to 1st gear while stopped like you, but I will say I've payed close attention to it and mine sounds like it's barely completing those downshifts when I am stopped. There might be just a slight difference in friction of components between yours and mine. The noise of the shift motor sounds way too weak in my opinion or at least in comparison to my previous Honda ATV. The shift motor on that one sounded way more solid when actuating and that one was 22 yrs old and still going strong! Granted it was a different transmission altogether than these DCT's. But in any case if the shift dogs don't have the power to pull out of one gear pocket and align and properly lock into the next gear pocket whether upshifting or downshifting, it's likely going to throw an error code since a full shift sequence was not completed. Then you see the dash mark on the gear position indicator and associated code blinks. My guess is if you key off and key back on and the shift drum is not in the proper location (due to the incomplete shift) the PGM-FI tells it to get that thing into neutral asap and the repeated sound (like on the scottfillmore video) is the shifter pawl trying to grab the shift drum but it can't because it's stuck in between gear positions. Some have had luck rolling the machine ahead which may be enough to get the shift drum to snap into a gear so the pawl can grab it on the next key on attempt but I'm guessing the DCT clutches are released at this time so this doesn't always work since there would be no torque to transmit through the clutch pack.
That is a very clear explanation of what you suspect might be happening. It makes complete sense as you would do the same thing with a standard shift. Next Time, I will try the rocking idea before turning it off and recycling the key.

I have been riding dirt bikes and quads for over fourty years, Tecate, Wolverine, Mojave, KLR 250, IT 250 etc etc. All were standard shift except the Wollverine that was a semi automatic. I have literally worn all of those machines out to the point where they weren't worth fixing.

This Rubicon is the first electric shift I have ever owned, I really like it and as I get older it makes sense for me. I love Hondas Reliability and am not really too concerned about it. I am wondering if I am shifting improperly and thinking maybe I just need to get used to it ?? I only have 125 miles on it and this just started happening at just over 90 mi.

I like that you have had such good luck with the older Honda. That is really impressive. I really hope this machine will last me that long.

Thank You and the others for taking the time to share your input and give suggestions.

I will report again as my mileage goes up.
 

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hi im new to this we bought a new honda trx 520 foreman last year oct 19 where in uk after about 50 hours it started going wrong getting stuck in gear missing gears dealer couldn't find anything wrong then got a lot worse by aug took it back to dealer in aug they took all gearbox in bits and found out the selecter fingers where rubbbing on gears its taken 3 months to get parts got it back today been round farm looking sheep when you get to some rough going it started missing gears again not joking could have cried. dealer says honda realise their is a problem with them but havn't been able to sort it we've run honda's for last 30 years thinking of changing breeds really really hate this bike
 
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