Honda Foreman Forums banner

1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My machine developed a problem a couple days ago. While running, it makes an internal chattering noise in the transmission area. It fades at higher RPM. Oil is full. It does shift using the buttons in ESP mode. I get 11 blinks from retrieving the problem code which points to the ECM motor which does seem like where the noise is coming from. I intend to change the oil next to see if there is debris in it. Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Further info. Blocked it up and ran it. Chatters in all gear selections, even in reverse. There is a noticeable clunk every 4 to 5 wheel rotations. Drained the oil and it was clean. No debris in the filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I did all the wiring checks for blink code 11. No findings. Erased codes and nothing came back. I have a shift motor shipping in, though I'm not confident this is the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
I went through similar troubles with my 2001 Rubicon and it ended up requiring a new Hondamatic. It is tough to diagnose these since there's a lot of electrical components involved, but any time there's abnormal sounds it's usually mechanical. The auto is only sold as a complete unit and would be expensive. You'd also need to replace the oil pump since this is what usually caused the failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response. Yeah, I'm eyes wide open to the possibility it being the whole unit. I've taken the shift motor out and started it up. It goes into gear fine and spins the wheels without any chatter. However this is on jacks, not actually ground operation. The motor has some drag when spinning the spline by hand. I hope it was slipping causing the chatter or the drive splines are worn. I need to read up better on what it does exactly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I installed a motor I got from the local salvage yard. No change. Slim chance it has the same problem as my motor. I expect a new cheap Chinese motor to arrive next week. If that doesn't work thinking about getting the tranny rebuilt or part out the machine. It's almost 20 years old. Part out is idea is winning so far.

I read in older threads in the forum that there are shops that exchange for rebuilt tyrannies. Does anyone know if there are shops still offering this service?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I installed the new Chinese motor. No joy. I checked oil pressure and it was good. Removed the oil PRV. Checked oil pressure again and it was zero. Tells me that the valve is working right. Had the owner from a local ATV shop observe what it does on jacks. Same problem. Chatters and worse in the lower rpm range when the motor swash plate should be at greater angles. Still clunks every 5-6 wheel rotations.

I located to brand new 2012 built tranny in Kotzebue for $1000. I put the Rubicon up for sale as is because I don't want to commit the time to it in the summer and want to use the money as a down payment for a new model. Got 2 hits so far. 1 a scammer, the other, a real person didn't seem to have the level of mechanical skill to handle it so talked him out of it. I'll keep it posted through today. Will probably get up early tomorrow Saturday and start tearing into it. Still on the fence about fixing or part out.

For those of you looking a tranny rebuilder: Honda Rubicon 500 01-14 Hondamatic Rebuilt Transmission

I talked to them. $900 to rebuild your unit. Two week turn around time and free shipping back and forth in the states only. I live near Anchorage so the new post 2005 unit in Kotz is the better deal for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Got some interest buying as is but they couldn't commit to my price. A couple people called and expressed what a shame it would be to part it out since it has such low miles. Convinced me to keep it.

Divin down to the bottom:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
You know, I felt the same way about the one I have. There isn't much demand for the parts that are left without a transmission so I'm rebuilding mine. I purchased all new parts to do so but unfortunately they are sitting south of the border at my son's place waiting for the travel restrictions to end....likely be a winter project by the looks of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'm deep into it and have almost got to separating the crank case halves. Was having fits trying to get the primary clutch and recoil drive nuts off, then my buddy lent me his impact driver. The clutch needs a special outer thread puller I need to figure out.

So far I see no damage or metal in the lower case wells. All sub-tranny gears look good which helps confirm the problem is the hondamatic.

@spock, awesome handle and I'm a fan. You live in Canada?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
You bet, alive and well in the Cariboo, B.C.
Great place to off road ride, we have it going on year round!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
We're neighbors, I live near Anchorage though probably 1500 miles apart. 😁 I love BC, beautiful area.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,231 Posts
I'd love to see pics as you tear it down. I've torn down a lot of Hondas, but not a Rubicon....yet. Have a 2012 I bought a few weeks ago that "doesn't pull" Haven't torn into it yet to see if it's maybe the oil pump chain (fingers crossed) or if the Hondamatic is shot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,231 Posts
This board isn't seeing the traffic it used to. Most of us moved over to www.atvhonda.com due to some unpopular changes the owners here made. If you need a factory service manual you can download one for free here in PDF format.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
There's one tip about changing a Rubicon auto transmission I can offer. Once the engine is removed from the frame, the top end will have to be stripped off so you can split the cases of course. What you don't need to do is remove the flywheel and sub transmission from the rear of the crankcases. The first time I did one I was following the shop manual but this turned out to be unnecessary. The cases can be separated while leaving the rear alone - just need to locate all the bolts that is. A clutch puller is required to get things apart on the front end, that's about it. Hey Tim-ANC, I live beside hwy. 97 which is the main route to go north/south - usually I see traffic from the states heading to Alaska (I assume) but none of that this year...going to be hard on the tourism industry, that's for sure. Would love to go to the far north once things are normal again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Mr Spock, yes wondered the exact same thing about rear crank case cover and sub-tranny when just going for the hondamatic. But I'm disciplined to follow the manual. Tore it off to be sure the sub-tranny gears weren't my problem They are good so i don't need to worry about that.

Only trip up so far was getting the the clutch off with the special puller. I didn't want to wait for one to ship in. So, had to take the engine to a Honda dealer 25 miles away. Took them 90 seconds to pop it and charged me half hour of labor. Oh well, high riding season and I want this operational within 2 weeks.

I drove the AlCan a couple times. Probably blazed right passed you. Both occasions, was **** bent on getting home as fast as possible. No time to enjoy things regrettably.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,231 Posts
That's cheating. You gotta manhandle it and throw your back out!
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top