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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I just joined cause I really need some help here. I just bought a 2007 Foreman 500 FM that needed to be bored out and new piston, rings, etc. I did all of that and replaced valve guide seals then put it all back together and it cranked up and there is this rattle sound and it smelled like burning metal. Then it started smoking a lil. Any clues as to what might be causing this? Any info would be much appreciated.
 

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welcome to the forum. did you check the ring end gap be for installing and did you stagger them when installing? how's the piston to cylinder clearance
 

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Make sure you set your valves after you got it all back together too, they will be out of whack. Why was the bike smoking to begin with? If it had ever had trash (water, mud, sand) in the motor then it is best to clean the bottom end out really well and replace the oil coolers before doing the top end rebuild. If not, your time will be wasted, as it will soon be smoking again.
 

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Thanks guys. I did stagger the piston rings, and clearance checked out. I'm not sure about setting the valves properly though. I ran the engine more and it stopped smoking all together. The noise is the only thing there now. Can someone explain how to properly seat the valves? Thank yall for all yalls help.
 

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Put your engine at TDC (top dead center). Do this by removing the timing cover off the right side of the engine. It is a little allen head cap you remove so you can see the timing mark as the engine spins over. Pull your pull chord and roll you engine over until the 'T' mark is in the middle of the window. Now your engine is at TDC.

However, it can be at TDC on the compression stroke or the power stroke. You want it on the compression stroke (I believe) so that your valves are loose and not tight. Pull your valve adjustment caps at the top of the motor. (this requires removing fuel tank). and wiggle the valve rockers. If they have play in them then you are good to go. If they are super tight then roll the engine over to TDC one more time.

Use a feeler gauge and set the valves to .006 clearance between the rocker and the valve. if you aren't sure exactly how to do it using the little set screw and nut then I would suggest getting a good manual. it covers it pretty well and a manual is always good to have. It's pretty simple though. Loosen the nut and adjust the setting with a screw driver. Get the clearance where you want it and tighten the nut back up.

Hope this helps, although it will probably just confuse you. get you a good manual and it will be much easier. Your valves will probably still tap a little bit once they are adjustment correctly, most hondas do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok I appreciate it. I will do that as soon as I can. So even though the valves may still tap some.. This isnt bad for the engine over time?
 

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I don't think so. It's fairly common with our old honda engines. They get old and wore in and get that infamous "honda tap". I got rid of my tap by adjusting the valves. But it eventually came back. I probably need to go in and do it again.

You can also run a little thicker oil to help with it. Some people will jump all over me for telling you that. It is recommended that you only run the Honda wet clutch oil and a specific weight. But I've ran 15w40 and 20w50 in mine to help with the valve tap and help the engine run cooler. My engine is full of Rotella 15w40 right now.
 
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