You can use a clamp on the brake line, right after it leaves the master cylinder to test it. With the line clamped so that no fluid can pass by, the master cylinder can be tested. If pressure builds, the problem isn't the mc and occurs somewhere down line. Have you attempted to adjust the brake shoes themselves (ie. inside the drums)?That must be done first before looking for trouble elsewhere.
01 Rubicon How do I know if my master cylinder is bad
I can pump the brake for hours and keep bleeding the brakes. I know there is no air in the lines. I can do about 5-10 quick pumps and I'll have pressure for about 5 seconds then it looses pressure again. I don't know how to tell what part is causing the malfunction.
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You can use a clamp on the brake line, right after it leaves the master cylinder to test it. With the line clamped so that no fluid can pass by, the master cylinder can be tested. If pressure builds, the problem isn't the mc and occurs somewhere down line. Have you attempted to adjust the brake shoes themselves (ie. inside the drums)?That must be done first before looking for trouble elsewhere.
No, I did not adjust the shoes. I couldn't find anything in the user manual for the tolerances on those shoes.
I just went out and clamped the line. It does hold pressure. I'll have to take a look around. Something must be leaking somewhere.No, I did not adjust the shoes. I couldn't find anything in the user manual for the tolerances on those shoes.
I doubt there's a problem with the hydraulics - you first need to adjust the brake shoes. All that is required is you jack the quad up in the air so that the front wheels can be turned. Then it isn't necessary but I usually take the wheels off and remove the red caps that are on the drums. This gives you access to the adjusters (aka "star wheels") that are connected to the slave cylinders. These have arrows on them that direct you how to tighten them. With a flat blade screwdriver you can turn them in that direction until they stop - this will apply the brakes so then turn them back 2 or 3 clicks to get clearance. There are two of them per wheel - 180 degrees apart. Repeat this process until the wheel turns ok with a little drag. If you cannot turn the adjusters easily, it will be necessary to remove the drums & get things apart to clean them up. You can forget about looking for leaks for now - these systems rarely give trouble. Once the adjustment is complete on both wheels, you should feel normal pressure at the mc/lever.
Thank you.I doubt there's a problem with the hydraulics - you first need to adjust the brake shoes. All that is required is you jack the quad up in the air so that the front wheels can be turned. Then it isn't necessary but I usually take the wheels off and remove the red caps that are on the drums. This gives you access to the adjusters (aka "star wheels") that are connected to the slave cylinders. These have arrows on them that direct you how to tighten them. With a flat blade screwdriver you can turn them in that direction until they stop - this will apply the brakes so then turn them back 2 or 3 clicks to get clearance. There are two of them per wheel - 180 degrees apart. Repeat this process until the wheel turns ok with a little drag. If you cannot turn the adjusters easily, it will be necessary to remove the drums & get things apart to clean them up. You can forget about looking for leaks for now - these systems rarely give trouble. Once the adjustment is complete on both wheels, you should feel normal pressure at the mc/lever.
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