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-   Honda Rancher 350, 400 & 420 (https://www.hondaforeman.com/146-honda-rancher-350-400-420/)
-   -   Rancher foot brake stuck (https://www.hondaforeman.com/146-honda-rancher-350-400-420/165937-rancher-foot-brake-stuck.html)

KeystoneMud 06-01-2019 09:04 PM

Rancher foot brake stuck
 
1 Attachment(s)
Just put new rear shoes on and both hand and foot cables are loose. The foot brake has never worked. Soaking over night with wd40. Hit with hammer. Used car Jack to try to lift it then release pressure and step on it. It will move just a few degrees .

Wilbur 06-01-2019 11:30 PM

You need to remove it, clean it and grease it. Take the plastic off where the rear brake rod inserts into the frame by the rear swing arm, don't bang on it with a hammer as it is softer than it looks. Grab you a battery cleaner and use the round wire brush on the end to clean the hole. Put wire brush on drill and clean the rear break pedal rod where it inserts into the frame. Get them nice and shiny and really clean then put grease on them and reinstall. Do the same thing on the rear brake drum where the rod goes into the brake hub. If you use some bearing grease it should last a while.
Don't forget to clean the brake pedal rod with a wire brush also.

KeystoneMud 06-02-2019 12:05 PM

"Wilbur" That sounds like a plan but after removing the cotter pin i cant get it to slide off. It's like the rust has it seized up. And ideas like using a bearing puller?

mrbb 06-02-2019 12:31 PM

keep spraying, /soaking it and moving it, it will come off sooner or later,
they get like this from lack of service, no pm's on it, same can happen to rear bake assembly at wheel too!
need to be removed now and then and cleaned, greased/lubed!
to prevent repeating again!

Wilbur 06-02-2019 12:43 PM

A bearing puller should work okay, it does have a flat washer behind the cotter key that needs to be removed.
I had the same thing happen on mine, I had to use a long flat headed screwdriver to pry and work it like MRBB said. Just don't hit it with a hammer, I did while I was prying on it and it did flatten it out a tiny bit but lucky it was in a non essential area. You're most likely going to have to do the same thing on the rear brake hub also if the pedal is that bad if you want it to be 100%. It took me about 4-6 hours to do it but after doing it once, I could do it in 2 hours next time. Have patience, it should last a long time and you won't have to do it again. It's a lot easier if you take the plastic off on the bottom around the right foot peg and easy to do.

Moccasin Ranger 06-02-2019 02:13 PM

Need something better than WD. A good penetrating oil or just brake fluid and trans fluid mix. White vinegar is better than WD for breaking rust.



If there's no rubber/plastic to deal with, alternate heat, oil, soak time, heat, pulling, until it gives up.

KeystoneMud 06-02-2019 03:14 PM

Thanks everyone. I have white vinegar and a heat gun. I will try that.

Wilbur 06-02-2019 11:17 PM

I used light weight oil in an old time squirt gun can. I picked up a gallon of ibm lightweight oil a long while back that works great in this can. If you move the brake lever up and down while prying it out, then it should free up or you have one of the worst one's I have ever heard of.

jeepwm69 06-03-2019 10:41 AM

Aerokroil and heat. Work it back and forth and it will gradually loosen up enough to come off.


I drilled a hole in the last one I had off, added a grease zerk to the foot pedal.

Wilbur 06-03-2019 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepwm69 (Post 3183033)
Aerokroil and heat. Work it back and forth and it will gradually loosen up enough to come off.


I drilled a hole in the last one I had off, added a grease zerk to the foot pedal.


That's a dang good idea!


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