Bleeding brakes - Honda Foreman Forums : Rubicon, Rincon, Rancher and Recon Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Bleeding brakes

GF has a 2007 Honda atv, not sure of model.


Front brakes take a few squeezes to get it to engage. Am I right that it likely is air in the lines? Is bleeding the brakes as simple as it is on a car? If the bleed screw is seized, would a propane torch have enough heat to loosen it?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 08:05 AM
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Could be low on fluid, same as a car. Aint sure about the torch.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Could be low on fluid, same as a car. Aint sure about the torch.

The handle bar reservoir was full.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:04 AM
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Bleeding would be your next option, usually the case when you have to pump it, next step would be a hose collapsing.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:21 AM
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How are your bearings? If your bearings wear, the rotor wobbles back and forth, pushing the caliper piston in, and then you have to pump brakes to get the caliper tight against the pad again.
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2005 Foreman Rubicon Camo
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeepwm69 View Post
How are your bearings? If your bearings wear, the rotor wobbles back and forth, pushing the caliper piston in, and then you have to pump brakes to get the caliper tight against the pad again.

Bearings are good. Even if it sites for a week, they still need to be pumped to get them to apply. I moved it a few days ago, and if I go out now, the brake will still need to be pumped.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 04:00 PM
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Try zip tying the brake lever back for a day or two. See if it still requires pumping. If so you probably need a new master cylinder. Buy a used OEM one on ebay.

2005 Foreman Rubicon Camo
Perfex, 27" Mudbugs
Heated grips and Thumb , HID's
5K Viper Max winch

2009 Foreman 500FM Green
Perfex with HL springs
27" Execs on Rubicon rims
Heated Grips and Thumb, HID's
4K Viper Max winch

2006 Foreman 500FM Green
28" Mugbugs, stretched, Perfex, HLsprings
3K Superwinch winch

2009 475 Rancher AT Tan
26" Mudbugs on Rincon rims
Warn winch. Foreman pod light with HID, SRA gear reduction
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeepwm69 View Post
Try zip tying the brake lever back for a day or two. See if it still requires pumping. If so you probably need a new master cylinder. Buy a used OEM one on ebay.

If after doing that, it needs pumping, why would the master cylinder be the issue?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 12:10 PM
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If the zip tie trick works, that means you simply had air in your lines that needed to be bled out. This is most likely the problem. Getting all the air out can be a PITA, and any air in there will give you a spongy lever or require pumping.


If you know there's no air in the system, and you have to pump the brakes., the seals in the master cylinder could be going bad and allowing pressure to back into the cylinder.


99% of the time on these things you just need to properly bleed the brakes.

2005 Foreman Rubicon Camo
Perfex, 27" Mudbugs
Heated grips and Thumb , HID's
5K Viper Max winch

2009 Foreman 500FM Green
Perfex with HL springs
27" Execs on Rubicon rims
Heated Grips and Thumb, HID's
4K Viper Max winch

2006 Foreman 500FM Green
28" Mugbugs, stretched, Perfex, HLsprings
3K Superwinch winch

2009 475 Rancher AT Tan
26" Mudbugs on Rincon rims
Warn winch. Foreman pod light with HID, SRA gear reduction
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwm69 View Post
If the zip tie trick works, that means you simply had air in your lines that needed to be bled out. This is most likely the problem. Getting all the air out can be a PITA, and any air in there will give you a spongy lever or require pumping.


If you know there's no air in the system, and you have to pump the brakes., the seals in the master cylinder could be going bad and allowing pressure to back into the cylinder.


99% of the time on these things you just need to properly bleed the brakes.

So, Why not just bleed the brakes?
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