Yet another Oil thread... - Honda Foreman Forums : Rubicon, Rincon, Rancher and Recon Forum
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Yet another Oil thread...

I've searched a bunch of threads on here about oil, but I want to be sure about my situation. My "new to me" 2006 Foreman ES has 2000 miles about 400 hours on it. I just drained the oil for another repair, and I was curious about what may be the best oil to put back in it? I live in northern Mississippi so it's usually pretty warm. The previous owner used Honda oil and when I got it, I changed the oil using "Valvoline ATV 4 Stroke Oil. JASO MA. Meets or exceeds API services SF/SG/SJ. The description says (Wet clutch protection for high torque and smooth shifting) ".

Seems like synthetic is the way to go, however, with 2000 miles on the bike is it ok to change to synthetic? If so...any suggestions on brand and weight?

Mucho Thanko
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 10:50 PM
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i wouldn't go synthetic in a atv. imo. its not gonna protect or last longer than the non-syn

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 12:14 AM
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Synthetic is better and is great in air cooled engines. The thing about oil is that you can read about it all day, and get a hundred different opinions. You will get a ton of people telling you what synthetics they use. Myself and others here like Rotella T6 5w-40 for diesels which is also JASO MA certified. (I run it in my Jeep, Volvo, Foreman, 1500, and lawn mowers) It's a great oil. Others will say use amsoil or royal purple. It's all about preference really because they are pretty similar.


The biggest benefit of synthetics is higher heat resistance, which prevents breakdown. Conventional oils have long chemical chains that break down in high heat and pressure. This is key to air cooled foremans because they have both high heat, and the oil is used in the transmission which gives you that high pressure and shearing power. Synthetics do not need these chains to stay thick so they are far more superior. As you use your foreman, heat and pressure break that conventional 10w-30 down, it very quickly becomes more like 10w-20 or lower. You won't have that problem with synthetics.

Synthetics stay thin even when in below freezing temperatures (sounds counter productive, but it's all about oil film in the end), this will allow for faster cranking speeds and will help with cold starts, also enhancing overall flow of oil which drops your engine wear.

Synthetics maintain oil film for longer periods of time. So if your quad sits for weeks at a time, that means you have less starting wear for that short period of cranking with no oil pressure because of the preservation of oil film. This is minimal but still a benefit.

The additive packages are also higher in the diesel products which will help keep your engine insides clean. You can make your own synthetic blend without any issues as well. You could mix GN4 with T6 in any precentage combination you want and have a good blend to give a trasition period. This would be so you dont wash out too much gunk too quickly. Although I really wouldnt worry about that being an issue unless it was really abused.


I can explain oil weights too if interested.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 12:27 AM
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can you justify spending the money for synthetic oil on a quad with 2000 miles i cant .i can see if your a oils dealer trying to sell your product .but after over 25 years of working as a mechanic i dont realy see the difference if you change your oil when its due .just me ,i just hope i havent hurt the feelings of the people on this site with my rights of free speech

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, I very much appreciate all the information and opinions!

I've read that some people feel their quad shifts better with the synthetic? That is why I began heading down this path, chasing some shifting gremlins...any feedback on improved shifting?

Also, in my manual it says NOT to use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API 'energy conserving' service label. I noticed the Rotella T6 is API SM, SL, SH. Is it ok that it's SH as long as the 'energy conserving' label isn't on the bottle?

Thanks again, again.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Went to AZ shopping oil, and I came across Mobil 1 racing 4T 10w40 oil for four stroke motorcycles. Anyone use or have info on it? How's it compare to rotella?
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninedriver View Post
Hey guys, I very much appreciate all the information and opinions!

I've read that some people feel their quad shifts better with the synthetic? That is why I began heading down this path, chasing some shifting gremlins...any feedback on improved shifting?

Also, in my manual it says NOT to use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API 'energy conserving' service label. I noticed the Rotella T6 is API SM, SL, SH. Is it ok that it's SH as long as the 'energy conserving' label isn't on the bottle?

Thanks again, again.
The T6 Rotella is not energy conserving and is fine for the Foreman. I went with it for the cold protection/easier shifting during winter as I bought it for ice fishing; it also helps that I use the same oil in my car.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 08:12 PM
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rotella 15/40 dino

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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 08:36 PM
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Im running rotella t 15w-40 and havent ran into any problems.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 09:23 PM
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I should add that I am using the T6 5W40, I'm farther North.
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