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07 Rubicon Error Code 4/TPS Replacement Help

25K views 30 replies 5 participants last post by  Rincon05 
#1 ·
Hello. I'm new here so bear with me...

I have a 07 Rubicon (TRX500FGA)

A little background on how this problem occurred. Long story short, I was riding a little too hard and the front end slammed down pretty hard coming off of a hill. The atv threw error code 5 at me which, as I understand, is the angle sensor system/control motor lock. Apparently the problem corrected itself and I now no longer get code 5 anymore, even after performing code retrieval and erasing codes, redoing the process. The carburettor was pulled and cleaned a while back and now I get error code 4 (tps voltage out of specified value) on my display. I pulled the TPS from the carb and cleaned it as well as its' connectors and dielectric greased everything, still flashing code 4.

I purchased a new TPS and spacer set from Partzilla and it should be arriving sometime in the next week. I have a service manual and know pretty well how to replace the sensor and perform the initial set procedure, but I'm confused about the part of adjusting the sensor resistance. Is this completely necessary or since it's a new oem part will it be fine to just install and perform the initial set procedure? If not, how do I go about making the adjustment? The manual doesn't really go into detail at all on this process so I feel I should know how to do this, however, I'm a novice with this stuff lol.

Also, any other input on my problem is completely welcome and encouraged.
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to the forum.

As I understand it the TPS is held by two screws (tamper proof IIRC) and you position the sensor, and it can be moved around a bit to get the proper position to give you the proper readings, then you tighten down the bolts holding it in that position.

I had a TPS code on a Foreman that ended up being the connector not making good contact. The TPS code would flash, but the TPS checked out fine on my ohm meter. I cleaned all the connections and greased them, and swapped two different ECU's in place before it stopped. Then the original ECU and the new ECU would both work fine, not throwing the code. I think I had some slight corrosion up in the connector on the ECU on that particular pin and removing and reinstalling ECU's cleaned up the pin and socket enough for it to make a good connection. Hasn't throw an error code since, and that was about 3-4 years ago.

Did you check the readings on your TPS that's on there now?
 
#3 ·
I haven't checked the sensor. I'm at work at the moment, but I will check and update whenever I get home. My problem is how exactly are you supposed to separate the actual sensor from the spacer, as I would assume you have to do to adjust it? The bolts connecting them appear to have no head, so no way of removing them?
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
So I checked the resistance of the sensor terminals and it read around 5 kΩ which is within the service manuals recommended range of 4-6. Voltage of the wire harness connector terminals was around 5 volts which is within the recommended 4.7-5.3 volt range.

When measuring resistance of the TPS terminals while operating the throttle lever (step 3 on page 24-18), I got readings around 2 kΩ when fully close and around 7.5 kΩ when fully open which is way off. Service manual says it should go from 0.5 to 4.0-6.0 kΩ.

So bad sensor or should adjustments be made somewhere else? Should I replace the sensor when the new one comes in or should I suspect something else is causing the problem? I don't have time to pull the front fender off and check ECM connections, but I plan on doing that sometime this weekend if weather will permit me to do so.

BTW, sorry for all the questions.. I'm still learning this machine and its mysterious ways.
 
#11 ·
I wish that was true Rich. I have enough work lined up to keep me busy for 3 months, if I had all parts on hand and nothing else came in. My calendar is always booked 3 weeks out and I actually try to turn work away. Everyone still brings them in and waits for them, job security I guess but I'm ready for a break. My shop is still only 90% completed.

But ya, bring it up. I have the parts on hand for it...
 
#12 ·
Got info on the TPS recall Toodeep?

What all models did it cover?

I've got an 07 in my yard that throws different codes from time to time, but the guy just turns the key off and back on and it will do fine again for awhile (I put new tie rods on it and an HID in his pod light for him, was going to grease all the connections to see if it helped). I think his threw a 5 and a 6 last time we rode.
 
#14 ·
Sweet. I'll run his vin and see if it's been done.

Thanks!
 
#15 ·
A little update on the status of my problem/frustration with the dealer. Scheduled a maintenance appointment and was told it would be ready to take home the same day. Get to the dealership, sign in and get everything unloaded. Wait for about 2 hours only for someone to come out at closing time and tell me they couldn't work on it because they had to order the parts :rant

So guess I'll be "patiently" awaiting a phone call. Good things to those who wait I suppose..
 
#16 ·
What parts did they order? Be interesting to see if they just throw parts at the problem or if the new parts fix it.
 
#17 ·
Not sure exactly. They're only only doing the recall and it states that the dealer will "modify" the TPS wiring harness and install a new TPS and water stop. So I'm assuming they're ordering either the TPS, the water stop, or both..

Hopefully replacing the TPS will fix my problem, but if not I plan on pulling the front fender and cleaning the connections on the ECM, as you stated earlier. I'd rather do as much as I possibly can on my own, however. Not big on paying $75/hour labor fees from the dealership....

You'd think fas large as the dealer is they would have these parts on hand. Granted, it has been 8 years since the recall was issued so I understand why they wouldn't. Maybe it won't take an outrageously long time to hear back from them.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Got a call from the dealer today. Said they had finished the recall but it still didn't fix my problem...

Not sure what to do at this point. Really don't want to pay dealer labor prices to have it fixed, but at this point I'm desperate. I guess I will go pick it up and take a look at the ecm connections and check for continuity in the wiring. I'd really like to fix this problem myself and save the hassle at the expense of my own free time.

Any suggestions on anything else to look at?

Edit: Called back and told them to dig further into it and get an estimate. Hopefully this will give me some insight further into the problem.
 
#19 ·
Well I took apart the connections on that 07 I had in my yard and cleaned and greased the crap out of all the plugs. We went on a VERY wet ride last Saturday and his Rubi didn't throw a code all day.

Electrical problems at $100/hour will get real expensive real fast. I'd try cleaning all your connections and greasing them before I paid a shop anything. That needs to be done anyway.
 
#20 ·
I agree. I told them to look into it just so I could get some input on their opinion of what is wrong.

I plan on doing that as soon as I get it back in my possession. I dread having to disassemble everything.. But it's a pretty day and I get off work at noon. Now if I can just make heads or tails of the ecm connections in the service manual...
 
#21 ·
It's not too hard. Take the fenders off, which is a PITA, but not hard, just time consuming.

Unplug every plug you see on the thing, get some CRC contact cleaner and spray down in the plugs, and then put a gob of dialectic grease in the female end and plug it in. Some people say to only grease around the edge of the plug but I gob the crap in there.
 
#23 ·
No, not if you have the key off while you're doing it. I'd probably do it when I was through given all your issues though. Can't hurt.
 
#24 ·
So to update this. Finally got my machine back after painstakingly dealing with the Honda dealership for 2 weeks (will never step foot back in that place).

Picked it up yesterday and it was no longer throwing any codes. Test drove it around the lot and it was running fine! Took it home and changed the oil/filter, rode around the house and it seemed to be performing how it should be.

Maybe the new sensor/wiring harness fixed my problem? I'd still like to tear into it and clean all of those connections really good, especially on the ecu, but honestly I really don't want to take the chance of messing something up again. Especially since it's finally running right for the first time in years..

I guess if it's not broke, don't fix it?
 
#25 ·
If you are bored, adding a little dialectic grease to the connections won't hurt anything.

What did the dealership do that supposedly fixed the problem?
 
#26 ·
They actually didn't do anything besides fix the recall. Not sure if it was just the sensor or wiring harness or what.

Took it on a pretty nice/wet ride yesterday on the Mississippi river and it performed flawlessly. Whatever it was seems to have worked itself out after the sensor was replaced. For now anyway...
 
#27 ·
Glad you got it fixed! So if it was the recall it didn't cost you anything? Even better!
 
#28 ·
UPDATE: After a few non-intense rides I'm starting to have trouble again.. Turned the key on and it was flashing the same code again. Cycled the key on and off a few times and it went away. Started it up and took it riding, about 30 minutes in my temp light comes on and it starts throwing code 4 again, this time for good.

Limped home and tore the thing apart. Unplugged the ECM connector and thoroughly cleaned with contact cleaner, dielectric greased, still throwing code 4. Cleaned the plug going to the TPS and the new wiring harness the dealer installed. Checked resistance at the TPS and voltage through all the wiring, everything is perfectly within spec.

Have no idea where to go from this point. REALLY refuse to go back to the dealer. Service is awful there. All I can think of is either something got way too hot, there's an opening in a wire somewhere, or the ECM is bad. Maybe a bad battery? I've had no problems out of it though..

I would like to point out that the new wiring harness installed by the dealer looks totally different. There's a small box that the wiring runs through before it hits the TPS. Looks sort of like a fuse/relay. I'll post pics when I get home, just curious as to what this could be.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
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