CV Boot Replacement - Honda Foreman Forums : Rubicon, Rincon, Rancher and Recon Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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CV Boot Replacement

These pictures and write up was sent to me by: Eric - Yooperforeman.

Thanks for the great work!

I took some pictures while replacing a c.v. boot on a 2003 Rancher.This procedure should be the same for any 4x4 Honda model.
Picture 1 shows the right wheel tunrned outward and the leaking C.V. boot:

Picture 2 shows the wheel removed and the hub nut.Remove the cotterpin and use a 22MM socket to remove the hub nut:

Picture 3 demonstrates where to strike with a hammer to separate the knuckle from the ball joints after removing the cotterpins and use a 17MM wrench to remove the balljoint nuts.

Picture 4 shows the knuckle separated from both balljoints.I didn't separate the outer tierod,I used a bungee to hang the brake ass'y. out of the way:

Picture 5 demonstrate using a prybay to "pop" the inner c.v. from the differential:

Picture 6 demonstrates using a hammer and punch to release the outer c.v. from the shaft.(I already cut the boot off with a knife to take a better

Picture 7: I was trying to show how the new boot clamps need to be installed.You must fold the clamp over and then bend the tabs over the strap.

I hope this helps someone.If there are any questions,I'd be glad to answer them. Yooperforeman.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 07:16 AM
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Thanks for posting that Robb.I'd like to add something.When re-installing the upper balljoint cotterpin,pay attention when bending over the cotterpins,I can see if one bent it the wrong way the cotterpin might catch the boot and tear it.
I'd like to do some more HOW-TO's soon.I'll send them to you.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-11-2007, 01:54 PM
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Just to add a little something to this, if you want to be a little quicker and possibly a little easier, instead of trying to seperate the knuckle from loose the ball joint, just remove the 2 bolts from the A-Arm at the frame. The A Arm will come loose and no hammer hitting is necessary. Just did this this past Friday. I changed my factory axles out to Gorilla Axles and this was the easiest way. It took less than an hour on each side. This included changing the shocks and brakes! Just an idea! But the pictures are accurate as well!

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-25-2007, 05:07 PM
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Another addition,,, good article by the way , but i do not even separate the upper , just the lower , and tie the whole assy up and out of the way!!

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-09-2007, 05:10 PM
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beautifull how to post! i will be using it


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2007, 12:01 AM
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Mudder Fudder that works great much eaiser than trying to break the ball joints loose.I had to take the lower bolt out of my shock to get enough room to get the axle out.I am having to replace wheel bearings.Mine rusted up must have gotten water in there some how.The end of the CV joint is rusted where it rides on the seals any ideas on how to repair this and is that most likely where the water got in?

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-03-2007, 12:40 AM
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PistonHed as long as the surface is not pitted or grooved to bad, just use some lite grit sand paper to clean up the mating surface.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-05-2007, 05:06 PM
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Thanks for the help I cleaned it up. Went and got the moose bearing kit you guys were talking about on another post worked great looks like a better product than OEM. Just got to get the brakes back in shape they look real bad.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-11-2008, 07:13 AM
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they must have changed things between 97 and 03 cause i didnt use a prybar on mine it had a split ring holding it in(figured that out after getting all the grease out of the way) and mine had a snap ring holding the bearing on, just removed it and slide the bearing off. good post though, great pics.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-29-2008, 03:08 PM
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Having a time getting upper balljoint to separate , am i gonna need a separater or is there another trick?? Need to replace the wheel bearings


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