List of materials:
-Roughly 3-5' of 6" pvc
-2-6" pvc caps
-2-6" pvc straight couplings(can use one but we'll get to that later)
-pvc glue and paint of your choice
-2-part epoxy, can probably use some type of silicone
-1/2" drill bit, 1/8" drill bit, and one a little bit smaller, can't remember exact size
-toggle switch along with an assortment of wire connectors
-anywhere from 2-6 feet of wire to run your power and grounds, length varies with battery placement on different fourwheelers
-hose clamps big enough to go around the pipe and racks, or some other method of thing them down, zip ties or rachet straps
-a small hose clamp(1"-1 1/2") and a 1/4"x20x1 1/2" bolt to mount the remote
-short piece of 2x4 or 2x6
-an inline fuse (optional)
First measure and cut your pipe, the main piece on mine was 11 1/2"-12" long, that is on a 2015 Rubicon. I did one on a 2013 Grizzly 700 and it was more around 13" long. It all depends on the size of your rack and how you want it to sit.
The easiest way to get an accurate measurement I found was to have someone hold the cap and the coupling where you want it(dont make them too long to where you won't be able to open a drybox or something). Then measure from the raised stop on the inside of the cap to the raised stop on the inside of the coupling, that's gonna be your measurement for your long piece.
Obviously cut them both the same length.
Next you'll cut two small pieces roughly 2-3" long. These pieces will go in the other side of the coupling. This is what you will drill your speakers to.
After all your pieces are cut glue the caps and couplings to your long piece, stand them both straight up and push them together. Standing them side-by-side is the easiest way to get them the exact same length. Then put your small pieces into the other side of the couplings. Make sure they're flush with the edge of the coupling.
Now's the easiest time to throw a couple coats of paint on.
After dry, we're gonna drill the holes for your wires to come out of the pipes.
With this particular setup the amp is gonna be mounted in one tube with a speaker and the other one is just going to have a speaker.
It doesn't matter what side the amp goes on, I put mine on the right side, just because that's the side the toggle switch is on. On my buddies Grizzly we put it on the left side because not only was his switch on that side, his battery was right there beside it. Its all about how much wire you want to run, and in turn hide.
Before we drill holes, we need to make the blocks to mount the amp on. This isn't necessary, but I wanted something solid and raised on the inside for the amp to sit on. Not screwed to the pipe itself or even worse just bouncing around in there.
Take a 2x4 or 2x6, doesn't have to be long. Take a short piece of pipe and lay it on top of the wood, trace out a half moon. I used a jigsaw to cut it, you can use a sawzall too. You don't want it too tall or it will make moving the wires around inside the pipe a pain in the ass. Attached is a picture of mine to give you an idea of how big to make it.
After you cut the blocks, mount the amp on them and then measure where to drill your holes. I only did one for each block. I just used regular wood screws but I countersunk the holes to keep it flush.
Next you'll drill the big hole on the pipe the amp goes in, I think I used a 1/2" bit and wollered it out long ways a little bit. The only reason you have to make it that big is to fit the connector for the Bluetooth remote through it. If you use a different amp it may be different.
On the other tube you'll drill a hole just big enough for the two speaker wires to fit through, less than an 1/8".
The only other thing left to drill is the 4 holes you mount each speaker to. I think I used a 1/8" bit as well on this. The pipe I used was like schedule 80 I think, most pipe you get from Lowe's is schedule 40, the 80 is just thicker. So where you drill your holes may be a little different.
After that it's just wiring everything up, it's pretty simple, the amp I'm listing comes with dummy proof instructions.
You'll have a power, ground, remote, and Bluetooth remote wires coming out of the amp side along with your two small speaker wires going to the other pipe.
After you get all the wires pulled and amp fastened down, you'll have to seal up the holes. I used a 2-part epoxy from Tractor Supply, it takes roughly an hour for it to get nice and dry. I imagine you could use some type of silicone. I taped the wires up nice and tight to make a snug fit.
If your running a toggle switch:
-power and blue remote wire to the accessory post on switch
-ground from the amp to the frame
-ground from the switch to the frame
-and a power from the switch to the battery
-i also put an inline fuse in between the switch and the battery.
-obviously mount your switch
The amp has a fuse built in, but I put a little bit smaller one in the inline fuse just in case if one blew hopefully itd hit the one in the inline fuse instead of the amp. A lot easier to get to.
It may sound a little confusing but it's really easy. If you need any help with the wiring just let me know.
All in all I probably have $250 in this setup, mainly because the amp was so much, but I wanted Bluetooth and I wanted something that would last and hold up. A similar split tube setup runs anywhere from $400 on up from what I've seen.
Here's a rough price estimate, note that I didn't have to buy the pipe I already had it so don't forget to factor that in:
-Kenwood Bluetooth amp-$140(https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UTXQL74/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-Polk Audio 6.5" speakers-$65(https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-2 caps and 2 couplings-$47
The rest of the stuff is small and cheap, and you're likely to have some it sitting around.
This setup is loud and I love it, it sounds good and I LOVE the bluetooth, to **** with having to deal with an auxiliary cord.
-Roughly 3-5' of 6" pvc
-2-6" pvc caps
-2-6" pvc straight couplings(can use one but we'll get to that later)
-pvc glue and paint of your choice
-2-part epoxy, can probably use some type of silicone
-1/2" drill bit, 1/8" drill bit, and one a little bit smaller, can't remember exact size
-toggle switch along with an assortment of wire connectors
-anywhere from 2-6 feet of wire to run your power and grounds, length varies with battery placement on different fourwheelers
-hose clamps big enough to go around the pipe and racks, or some other method of thing them down, zip ties or rachet straps
-a small hose clamp(1"-1 1/2") and a 1/4"x20x1 1/2" bolt to mount the remote
-short piece of 2x4 or 2x6
-an inline fuse (optional)
First measure and cut your pipe, the main piece on mine was 11 1/2"-12" long, that is on a 2015 Rubicon. I did one on a 2013 Grizzly 700 and it was more around 13" long. It all depends on the size of your rack and how you want it to sit.
The easiest way to get an accurate measurement I found was to have someone hold the cap and the coupling where you want it(dont make them too long to where you won't be able to open a drybox or something). Then measure from the raised stop on the inside of the cap to the raised stop on the inside of the coupling, that's gonna be your measurement for your long piece.
Obviously cut them both the same length.
Next you'll cut two small pieces roughly 2-3" long. These pieces will go in the other side of the coupling. This is what you will drill your speakers to.
After all your pieces are cut glue the caps and couplings to your long piece, stand them both straight up and push them together. Standing them side-by-side is the easiest way to get them the exact same length. Then put your small pieces into the other side of the couplings. Make sure they're flush with the edge of the coupling.
Now's the easiest time to throw a couple coats of paint on.
After dry, we're gonna drill the holes for your wires to come out of the pipes.
With this particular setup the amp is gonna be mounted in one tube with a speaker and the other one is just going to have a speaker.
It doesn't matter what side the amp goes on, I put mine on the right side, just because that's the side the toggle switch is on. On my buddies Grizzly we put it on the left side because not only was his switch on that side, his battery was right there beside it. Its all about how much wire you want to run, and in turn hide.
Before we drill holes, we need to make the blocks to mount the amp on. This isn't necessary, but I wanted something solid and raised on the inside for the amp to sit on. Not screwed to the pipe itself or even worse just bouncing around in there.
Take a 2x4 or 2x6, doesn't have to be long. Take a short piece of pipe and lay it on top of the wood, trace out a half moon. I used a jigsaw to cut it, you can use a sawzall too. You don't want it too tall or it will make moving the wires around inside the pipe a pain in the ass. Attached is a picture of mine to give you an idea of how big to make it.
After you cut the blocks, mount the amp on them and then measure where to drill your holes. I only did one for each block. I just used regular wood screws but I countersunk the holes to keep it flush.
Next you'll drill the big hole on the pipe the amp goes in, I think I used a 1/2" bit and wollered it out long ways a little bit. The only reason you have to make it that big is to fit the connector for the Bluetooth remote through it. If you use a different amp it may be different.
On the other tube you'll drill a hole just big enough for the two speaker wires to fit through, less than an 1/8".
The only other thing left to drill is the 4 holes you mount each speaker to. I think I used a 1/8" bit as well on this. The pipe I used was like schedule 80 I think, most pipe you get from Lowe's is schedule 40, the 80 is just thicker. So where you drill your holes may be a little different.
After that it's just wiring everything up, it's pretty simple, the amp I'm listing comes with dummy proof instructions.
You'll have a power, ground, remote, and Bluetooth remote wires coming out of the amp side along with your two small speaker wires going to the other pipe.
After you get all the wires pulled and amp fastened down, you'll have to seal up the holes. I used a 2-part epoxy from Tractor Supply, it takes roughly an hour for it to get nice and dry. I imagine you could use some type of silicone. I taped the wires up nice and tight to make a snug fit.
If your running a toggle switch:
-power and blue remote wire to the accessory post on switch
-ground from the amp to the frame
-ground from the switch to the frame
-and a power from the switch to the battery
-i also put an inline fuse in between the switch and the battery.
-obviously mount your switch
The amp has a fuse built in, but I put a little bit smaller one in the inline fuse just in case if one blew hopefully itd hit the one in the inline fuse instead of the amp. A lot easier to get to.
It may sound a little confusing but it's really easy. If you need any help with the wiring just let me know.
All in all I probably have $250 in this setup, mainly because the amp was so much, but I wanted Bluetooth and I wanted something that would last and hold up. A similar split tube setup runs anywhere from $400 on up from what I've seen.
Here's a rough price estimate, note that I didn't have to buy the pipe I already had it so don't forget to factor that in:
-Kenwood Bluetooth amp-$140(https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UTXQL74/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-Polk Audio 6.5" speakers-$65(https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
-2 caps and 2 couplings-$47
The rest of the stuff is small and cheap, and you're likely to have some it sitting around.
This setup is loud and I love it, it sounds good and I LOVE the bluetooth, to **** with having to deal with an auxiliary cord.