Within about 50 miles, I was getting a bad popping coming from the swingarm area upon initial drivetrain loading. After reading up I realized the tires, clutch kit, and lift were probably all causing a ton of strain on the u joint. So after some reading I decided a 450 swingarm swap was what i needed. Plus the 28s were rubbing the plastic, and one day I'd like to have 30s on the bike so this would give me some additional clearance later. So I ordered parts based on what I read online. I bought a 450 Swingarm (used off ebay $50, part# 52100-HN0-670), 450 driveshaft ($50 new OEM Honda), 450 foot brake cable ($15 new OEM Honda), All Ballz SwingArm bearing kit (Part# 28-1056 02-04 tapered style bearings) and I bought a Moose Racing U joint for extra strength (part# 1205-0201). Here's the goods:
Close up comparison, Moose on top, OEM Honda 500 on the bottom:
Let's examine these joints a little closer. Moose overall width dimension: 2.112
Stock Honda piece is 2.021
Bearing cap O.D. on the Moose unit: 0.746
Bearing cap on the OEM unit: 0.667.
500 swingarm on the left, 450 arm on the right. I did a quick sand blast and repaint to it as some of the powdercoating has some rust.
Honda 500 DS 6.25 long, 450 DS is 8.75, so about 2.5 inches longer here also...meaning drive clearances should stay the same.
Back of the 500:
The swingarm must be cut and re-welded to do this swap correctly IMO. I snapped a pic of the cuts I made. The first bend with be the bring the passenger side of the arm closer to the centerline of the bike and the cut towards the bolt holes will be to straighten the arm back up so it will align with your bolt holes on your axle tubes.
Installation is the reverse of removal. And, a highlifter 2 inch lift will still work and put you back to basically the original height but with a much more favorable u joint working angle. I made no changes to their lift EXCEPT remaking the outer brackets because one was found to be broken (after 100 miles). I will be contacting them about this failure as it in unacceptable in my opinion.
I did originally file the OEM plastics some because the 28s were rubbing slightly, now, 30s will fit with room to spare:
Looks like your back is gonna get slightly dirtier.
Bad news is the foot brake cable for the 450 is exactly the same length as the 500 meaning it did not fit. The hand brake cable had no trouble reaching. Questions, comments........
If it were me id take the cable to the dealer and see what the have in stock to compare it too. Ie rear cable for a trx 300, rincon, rancher, 300ex, 400ex, etc to see if you can match up a longer one with the same connections on each end.
I would like to add, this combo DID have the u joint touching the inside of the DS tunnel. I even removed the swingarm to verify everything was splined/engaged correctly. I re-installed it, and drove it. It made a slight noise above 10mph, getting louder as speed increased. After 10 or so miles on the bike, it clearanced it self and is dead silent.
It's about 1/4" too wide in the back. Some say to use the bolts and tighten to bend it. I'm not taking that chance. Cutting and welding is the correct way IMO.
Lol, right......that will never happen. Regardless, I won't be installing another one. I've assembled all OEM parts, total bill was $285. Not just gotta install it all.
01ssredda4, GREAT write up. I just swapped my arm out, and cutting slots to allow for the bend is the ONLY way to do it correctly. heres my question.....I had a 2' lift already along w/ spacers. . Im going to run 30's and have a double gear reduction. Im going to weld a bracket directly to original mount, shouldn't I go back 3 inches and up atleast 2 to get me back to where i was before? Being that its a mudder, i don't need the thing to ride like a cadilllac, just want to have a good shock angle.
Its such a small change I dont think the shock angle is that critical at this point. Getting it somewhere back in the vicinity of stock should be fine. Your bracket will determine ride height also so make sure you factor that in when you make it.
Exactally the point I was getting at, that it might not have been the "garbage Moose u joint" so much as it clearanced it self causing a weak spot. Especially after looking back and seeing the U joint cross isn't broke, but the ears are broke off one yoke in almost the same spot..
Hmmm, there has to be something amiss here though. If it was a joint issue there has to be more people that has had this clearance issue too.
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