Inexpensive exhaust silencers - Honda Foreman Forums : Rubicon, Rincon, Rancher and Recon Forum

pls1911 · 02-05-2012, 09:39 AM

Attachments show very easy and extremly effective silencers fabricated from inexpensive, readily available parts.

Total cost for the pipe type with baffle was about $15.
The muffler type was maybe $35 (the muffler was about $28 from SummitRacing) and as shown is simply tacked together for the fit check.

Only the 2" femail "receiver" is tacked to the stock muffler for either unit. Everything else is removable in five minutes.

What a profound sound reduction! The big 500's thumpers bark is changed to a gentle, whispered wuff wuff wuff .

Intended for woods and trails use, not for racing of high speed runs. I'd want to change from a stock muffler for those activities anyway.

Droptime209 · 02-05-2012, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pls1911

Attachments show very easy and extremly effective silencers fabricated from inexpensive, readily available parts.

Total cost for the pipe type with baffle was about $15.
The muffler type was maybe $35 (the muffler was about $28 from SummitRacing) and as shown is simply tacked together for the fit check.

Only the 2" femail "receiver" is tacked to the stock muffler for either unit. Everything else is removable in five minutes.

What a profound sound reduction! The big 500's thumpers bark is changed to a gentle, whispered wuff wuff wuff .

Intended for woods and trails use, not for racing of high speed runs. I'd want to change from a stock muffler for those activities anyway.

Hey nice find can u place some links to where I can find the parts to either get the exhoust type or make the pipe kind? I can't find it at the summit racing site. Thanx

pls1911 · 02-05-2012, 12:57 PM

Summit Sacing
Dynomax Performance 41947 - Walker Exhaust Pipe Connectors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Walker exhaust connector:
2" exhaust connector 12" long Part Number: WLK-41947
$3.56 each.... (buy 3)

J.C. Whitney
Biker's Choice Bikers Choice Exhaust Pipe Baffles - JCWhitney

Exhaust Pipe Baffle Style- 2"
SKU #: 1JA 886590 Mfr #: 71955H4
$7.99 (one needed per machine)

Step 1: Cut off 2.5" of the female end of one of the connectors, deburr
Step 2: Tack the cut off ring to the cleaned exhaust pipe end; this provides a receiver for the muffler assembly.
Step 3: measure 3" of the remaining connector pipe, mark and cut hough at 45 degrees.
Step 4: rotate the mating cut surfaces to make the 90 degree bend and weld.
Step 5: repeat step 4 but at 90 dgrees to the first, and at the desired finish level below the rear light. Be sure to leave about a 2" "nipple" for the second connector pipe female end to slide over.
Step 6: insert the 2" pipe baffle into the second 2" connector pipe after you remove the little bolt and nut it comes with.. It will be a nice snug fit.
Step 7: From the female end of the third pipe, make up another 90 degree slip on piece per step 4.
Step 8: fit pieces together on the bike and align to your taste. I'd leave the first piece (top insert to the muffler) a tight slip fir , secured with a PK screw; tack weld the rest in place as you go. I pointed the final piece to the ground, as the rough dirt surface does not reflect sound well.
At this point you can finish the welding make iprofessional looking or leave it rough and functional)

Step 9: get a piece of scrap strap , or 1/8 x 3/4 strap ($3 at Home depot) and an insulated 3/4 or 1" rubber insulated steel electrical clamp ($2 at depot) measure, cut to length and rill a .25" hole at one end.
Step 10: secure strap to the bike frame where it's convenient (probably the the right of the rear light) and rotate to contact and support the silence pipe. Weld it to the pipe, securing the muffler to the frame.
Step 11: Clean it up ( degrease it too, wipe it down with acetone or lacquer thinner), paint it flat black with high heat paint.

Step 12: Ride silently through the woods....well, a WHOLE LOT less noisy.
You'll hear engine and suspension sounds and tire noise you never heard before, and be very pleased at how quiet your are when just loafing around... No more back huffing on decelleration either.

You have duplicated a single Harley 2" drag pipe, baffled to be street legal;
and it breaths better than the little 3/4" hole from Honda's stock muffler that feeds it.
Total cost? About $25 bucks and an hour or so labor.

pls1911 · 02-05-2012, 01:16 PM

Muffler version used similar set up for attachment, but used a couple of step reducers to go from 2" pipe to 1 3/8" as can be seen in the photo.
Summit link for the Walker muffler :
Walker Exhaust 22022 - Walker Tractor Mufflers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Today it's $25.89

Droptime209 · 02-05-2012, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pls1911

Summit Sacing
Dynomax Performance 41947 - Walker Exhaust Pipe Connectors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Walker exhaust connector:
2" exhaust connector 12" long Part Number: WLK-41947
$3.56 each.... (buy 3)

J.C. Whitney
Biker's Choice Bikers Choice Exhaust Pipe Baffles - JCWhitney

Exhaust Pipe Baffle Style- 2"
SKU #: 1JA 886590 Mfr #: 71955H4
$7.99 (one needed per machine)

Step 1: Cut off 2.5" of the female end of one of the connectors, deburr
Step 2: Tack the cut off ring to the cleaned exhaust pipe end; this provides a receiver for the muffler assembly.
Step 3: measure 3" of the remaining connector pipe, mark and cut hough at 45 degrees.
Step 4: rotate the mating cut surfaces to make the 90 degree bend and weld.
Step 5: repeat step 4 but at 90 dgrees to the first, and at the desired finish level below the rear light. Be sure to leave about a 2" "nipple" for the second connector pipe female end to slide over.
Step 6: insert the 2" pipe baffle into the second 2" connector pipe after you remove the little bolt and nut it comes with.. It will be a nice snug fit.
Step 7: From the female end of the third pipe, make up another 90 degree slip on piece per step 4.
Step 8: fit pieces together on the bike and align to your taste. I'd leave the first piece (top insert to the muffler) a tight slip fir , secured with a PK screw; tack weld the rest in place as you go. I pointed the final piece to the ground, as the rough dirt surface does not reflect sound well.
At this point you can finish the welding make iprofessional looking or leave it rough and functional)

Step 9: get a piece of scrap strap , or 1/8 x 3/4 strap ($3 at Home depot) and an insulated 3/4 or 1" rubber insulated steel electrical clamp ($2 at depot) measure, cut to length and rill a .25" hole at one end.
Step 10: secure strap to the bike frame where it's convenient (probably the the right of the rear light) and rotate to contact and support the silence pipe. Weld it to the pipe, securing the muffler to the frame.
Step 11: Clean it up ( degrease it too, wipe it down with acetone or lacquer thinner), paint it flat black with high heat paint.

Step 12: Ride silently through the woods....well, a WHOLE LOT less noisy.
You'll hear engine and suspension sounds and tire noise you never heard before, and be very pleased at how quiet your are when just loafing around... No more back huffing on decelleration either.

You have duplicated a single Harley 2" drag pipe, baffled to be street legal;
and it breaths better than the little 3/4" hole from Honda's stock muffler that feeds it.
Total cost? About $25 bucks and an hour or so labor.

Awesome write up.

Droptime209 · 02-05-2012, 05:33 PM

Have you noticed any affects on performance? Which one works better the pipe set up or the tractor muffler?

NC Rebel · 02-05-2012, 06:50 PM

Good article. I see all of you have Foremans, with a little change in the plumbing, do you think this will work with a Rincon? Thanks

Droptime209 · 02-05-2012, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NC Rebel

Good article. I see all of you have Foremans, with a little change in the plumbing, do you think this will work with a Rincon? Thanks

I can't think of any reason y it wouldn't work with any bike as long as u have something to attach the muffler to IMO.

pls1911 · 02-06-2012, 12:22 AM

Either set up should work fine for any motor up to 800 cc when operated at less than High RPM racing applications.
I've not noticed any change in performance, but I don't race utility ATVs anywhere, and enjoy being able to nearly drive up to wildlife. Low end pull is just as gutsy and strong as ever, just much more quiet.
As stated before, the pipe and baffle set up is the same dimensions as a single baffled drag pipe (of two) from a Harley big twin, 900 though 1500 cc's, so it should breath plenty for 500 though 750 cc single cylinder motors (half the volume, half the pipes, you know?) .
Either set up should easily pass more volume than the tiny stock muffler hole that feeds it.

On top end, performance would be better with a race tuned open pipe, but I don't run utilty ATV's there. I run mine like tractors, at low to moderate RPM, and enjoy the quiet.. you can actually hear your suspension and shocks working, until the wind in your ears block it. Yes it still jumps like a scaulded cat when you crank it up and runs through the gears. Top end with these additions? Who knows?.. someplace way over 50 an that gets hear quick!!
If one is concerned about increased backpressure (over stock?? HAH! I don't think so...), the pipe baffles can be opened a bit before installation. On the muffler, a long drill through the center baffled core could put an additional (and larger) hole 3/8", or 7/16" ... maybe as big as 1/2" in the downstream side of the internal intake stack which is 90 degrees offset to the muffler core. The "Silent Runner" producers do this to their unit when it's specified for high altitude use, with no difference in sound dampening.
I may go ahead and do it to mine, though I 'll not likely notice any changes, inasmuch as the sound and flow still passes through 12" of very confused flow and baffle arrangement. I'll let you know if it makes any tangible difference.
Also, a turn down spout on the down stream pipe tip directs the remaining sound to the ground, which should buy you a decibel, perhaps two.

pls1911 · 02-06-2012, 12:30 AM

AS far as "which one works better?", I'd say from a sound reduction point of view, it's about a toss up.
The muffler set up but is a little more expensive, but has fewer fab parts, so may be slightly faster to get worked up and installed.
The pipe and baffle set up lets you practice your fab skills a little more, has more pieces and is a bit less expensive, but sounds about the same.
AS cheap as they are, make 'em both and choose the one you like... sell the other one to a riding buddy.

02-05-2012, 09:39 AM	#1 (permalink)
pls1911 Honda Addict Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW Posts: 100	Inexpensive exhaust silencers Attachments show very easy and extremly effective silencers fabricated from inexpensive, readily available parts. Total cost for the pipe type with baffle was about $15. The muffler type was maybe $35 (the muffler was about $28 from SummitRacing) and as shown is simply tacked together for the fit check. Only the 2" femail "receiver" is tacked to the stock muffler for either unit. Everything else is removable in five minutes. What a profound sound reduction! The big 500's thumpers bark is changed to a gentle, whispered wuff wuff wuff . Intended for woods and trails use, not for racing of high speed runs. I'd want to change from a stock muffler for those activities anyway. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Paul ------------- 2012 foreman (2) es, power steering Stock wheels and tires 26x10x12 B-Horns when stock tires are replaced Warn xt2500 winch (1) w/Warn mounts Warn 54" snow plow, w/Warn mounts Three different silencers for stock exhaust under $20 (why pay $150 for silent rider?) 1963 Sportster, '55 K Frame. Metal work, good wrench, engineer. Last edited by pls1911; 02-05-2012 at 09:43 AM. Reason: spl

02-05-2012, 12:57 PM	#3 (permalink)
pls1911 Honda Addict Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW Posts: 100	Pipe type $25 silencer parts source listing, and assembly steps Summit Sacing Dynomax Performance 41947 - Walker Exhaust Pipe Connectors - Overview - SummitRacing.com Walker exhaust connector: 2" exhaust connector 12" long Part Number: WLK-41947 $3.56 each.... (buy 3) J.C. Whitney Biker's Choice Bikers Choice Exhaust Pipe Baffles - JCWhitney Exhaust Pipe Baffle Style- 2" SKU #: 1JA 886590 Mfr #: 71955H4 $7.99 (one needed per machine) Step 1: Cut off 2.5" of the female end of one of the connectors, deburr Step 2: Tack the cut off ring to the cleaned exhaust pipe end; this provides a receiver for the muffler assembly. Step 3: measure 3" of the remaining connector pipe, mark and cut hough at 45 degrees. Step 4: rotate the mating cut surfaces to make the 90 degree bend and weld. Step 5: repeat step 4 but at 90 dgrees to the first, and at the desired finish level below the rear light. Be sure to leave about a 2" "nipple" for the second connector pipe female end to slide over. Step 6: insert the 2" pipe baffle into the second 2" connector pipe after you remove the little bolt and nut it comes with.. It will be a nice snug fit. Step 7: From the female end of the third pipe, make up another 90 degree slip on piece per step 4. Step 8: fit pieces together on the bike and align to your taste. I'd leave the first piece (top insert to the muffler) a tight slip fir , secured with a PK screw; tack weld the rest in place as you go. I pointed the final piece to the ground, as the rough dirt surface does not reflect sound well. At this point you can finish the welding make iprofessional looking or leave it rough and functional) Step 9: get a piece of scrap strap , or 1/8 x 3/4 strap ($3 at Home depot) and an insulated 3/4 or 1" rubber insulated steel electrical clamp ($2 at depot) measure, cut to length and rill a .25" hole at one end. Step 10: secure strap to the bike frame where it's convenient (probably the the right of the rear light) and rotate to contact and support the silence pipe. Weld it to the pipe, securing the muffler to the frame. Step 11: Clean it up ( degrease it too, wipe it down with acetone or lacquer thinner), paint it flat black with high heat paint. Step 12: Ride silently through the woods....well, a WHOLE LOT less noisy. You'll hear engine and suspension sounds and tire noise you never heard before, and be very pleased at how quiet your are when just loafing around... No more back huffing on decelleration either. You have duplicated a single Harley 2" drag pipe, baffled to be street legal; and it breaths better than the little 3/4" hole from Honda's stock muffler that feeds it. Total cost? About $25 bucks and an hour or so labor. __________________ Paul ------------- 2012 foreman (2) es, power steering Stock wheels and tires 26x10x12 B-Horns when stock tires are replaced Warn xt2500 winch (1) w/Warn mounts Warn 54" snow plow, w/Warn mounts Three different silencers for stock exhaust under $20 (why pay $150 for silent rider?) 1963 Sportster, '55 K Frame. Metal work, good wrench, engineer.

02-05-2012, 01:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
pls1911 Honda Addict Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW Posts: 100	Muffler version used similar set up for attachment, but used a couple of step reducers to go from 2" pipe to 1 3/8" as can be seen in the photo. Summit link for the Walker muffler : Walker Exhaust 22022 - Walker Tractor Mufflers - Overview - SummitRacing.com Today it's $25.89 __________________ Paul ------------- 2012 foreman (2) es, power steering Stock wheels and tires 26x10x12 B-Horns when stock tires are replaced Warn xt2500 winch (1) w/Warn mounts Warn 54" snow plow, w/Warn mounts Three different silencers for stock exhaust under $20 (why pay $150 for silent rider?) 1963 Sportster, '55 K Frame. Metal work, good wrench, engineer.

02-05-2012, 05:33 PM	#6 (permalink)
Droptime209 Honda Addict Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 202	Have you noticed any affects on performance? Which one works better the pipe set up or the tractor muffler? __________________ 2012 Formen Dupli-Color BED ARMOR W/ Kevlar coated F&R racks WARN WINCH Front mounted tow hook. 2" Custome snorkel AP full skid plate w/ stick guards 6 1/2" sterio tube caps (wydglide set up) Coming soon 27X10x12 swap lites all 4 corners

02-05-2012, 06:50 PM	#7 (permalink)
NC Rebel Honda Rider Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Fuquay-Varina Posts: 7	Silencer Good article. I see all of you have Foremans, with a little change in the plumbing, do you think this will work with a Rincon? Thanks

02-06-2012, 12:22 AM	#9 (permalink)
pls1911 Honda Addict Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW Posts: 100	Either set up should work fine for any motor up to 800 cc when operated at less than High RPM racing applications. I've not noticed any change in performance, but I don't race utility ATVs anywhere, and enjoy being able to nearly drive up to wildlife. Low end pull is just as gutsy and strong as ever, just much more quiet. As stated before, the pipe and baffle set up is the same dimensions as a single baffled drag pipe (of two) from a Harley big twin, 900 though 1500 cc's, so it should breath plenty for 500 though 750 cc single cylinder motors (half the volume, half the pipes, you know?) . Either set up should easily pass more volume than the tiny stock muffler hole that feeds it. On top end, performance would be better with a race tuned open pipe, but I don't run utilty ATV's there. I run mine like tractors, at low to moderate RPM, and enjoy the quiet.. you can actually hear your suspension and shocks working, until the wind in your ears block it. Yes it still jumps like a scaulded cat when you crank it up and runs through the gears. Top end with these additions? Who knows?.. someplace way over 50 an that gets hear quick!! If one is concerned about increased backpressure (over stock?? HAH! I don't think so...), the pipe baffles can be opened a bit before installation. On the muffler, a long drill through the center baffled core could put an additional (and larger) hole 3/8", or 7/16" ... maybe as big as 1/2" in the downstream side of the internal intake stack which is 90 degrees offset to the muffler core. The "Silent Runner" producers do this to their unit when it's specified for high altitude use, with no difference in sound dampening. I may go ahead and do it to mine, though I 'll not likely notice any changes, inasmuch as the sound and flow still passes through 12" of very confused flow and baffle arrangement. I'll let you know if it makes any tangible difference. Also, a turn down spout on the down stream pipe tip directs the remaining sound to the ground, which should buy you a decibel, perhaps two. __________________ Paul ------------- 2012 foreman (2) es, power steering Stock wheels and tires 26x10x12 B-Horns when stock tires are replaced Warn xt2500 winch (1) w/Warn mounts Warn 54" snow plow, w/Warn mounts Three different silencers for stock exhaust under $20 (why pay $150 for silent rider?) 1963 Sportster, '55 K Frame. Metal work, good wrench, engineer.

02-06-2012, 12:30 AM	#10 (permalink)
pls1911 Honda Addict Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW Posts: 100	AS far as "which one works better?", I'd say from a sound reduction point of view, it's about a toss up. The muffler set up but is a little more expensive, but has fewer fab parts, so may be slightly faster to get worked up and installed. The pipe and baffle set up lets you practice your fab skills a little more, has more pieces and is a bit less expensive, but sounds about the same. AS cheap as they are, make 'em both and choose the one you like... sell the other one to a riding buddy. __________________ Paul ------------- 2012 foreman (2) es, power steering Stock wheels and tires 26x10x12 B-Horns when stock tires are replaced Warn xt2500 winch (1) w/Warn mounts Warn 54" snow plow, w/Warn mounts Three different silencers for stock exhaust under $20 (why pay $150 for silent rider?) 1963 Sportster, '55 K Frame. Metal work, good wrench, engineer.

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Honda Foreman Forum Advertisement