check/adjust valve clearance hot or cold - Honda Foreman Forums : Rubicon, Rincon, Rancher and Recon Forum
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default check/adjust valve clearance hot or cold

Should the valve clearance on a 06 trx 500 4x4 be checked/adjusted on a warm engine or cold engine.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cold engine.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I figured i might be doing it wrong, i have been doing it cold,it must be something else making the noise. It becomes louder when it's worm. It sounds like a timing chain noise but i know it doesn't have a timing chain,like a high rpm rattle, mostly when you come off the throttle after high rpm's.I have checked the valve clearence several times and it always seems right. Any ideas what to look at next, my bike has about 4 thousand miles, and the oil has always been changed right on time. Thanks for the response.
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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They do have a short timing chain on the front/lower side of the motor but they last for many miles. What clearance are you adjusting the tappets to? If your going .006 you might try .005 to see if it helps at all. It could be just the Honda rattle also, with the push rod/lifter style of engine they don't run quite as quiet as the over head cam ones did.
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I am setting it to 006, last time when i had it apart i started it up and let it run for about 3 to 5 minutes and adjusted them again to 006 the difference was very slight,i just checked compression today and it read between 45 -50,is there a simple way to see if the timing chain has stretched?
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Toodeep, I just want to ask your opinion and maybe help this guy get his stuff quiet at the same time.
Ive had my hands in many Honda ATVs over the years from the early ATC 90s to the well ?my now new to me 2004 Rubicon.
I have been thru some crazy crap with the ATC 350x heads and there non existant cam bearings and such.
But my question is?, Is the Honda,clymer, Haynes manual got it straight?
I mean for years Ive always followed all the procedures and my bikes always ticked when done and ive always chalked it to it being a Honda and dont worry about it.
Years ago I was totally into 4-trax 250Rs and my brother wanted to get into the hobby and bought a blown up 250x thinking it would keep up with me .LOL
Anyway he had unlimited funds and went bigbore with head and jug getting sent off ,bigger carb and of a powroll pipe and silencer.(If you wanna call it that?)
I assembled everything and for the life of me could not get it stop ticking when running and I had set the valves according to the manual. Then my chevy head buddy(Im a Fordguy) came over and adjusted the valves by hand and woolah !
Now every since then everytime I do valves I just tighten them by hand and havent had a prob ever.(make sure you tighten the locknut)lol
When I say hand tighten I mean just make sure everything is loose and tighten down until you feel resistance, once you feel resistance hold it there and tighten locknut.
I know its hillbilly but its worked for me.
TooDeep, Can you give me the pros and cons of this procedure? Cause everytime Ive tried to use feeler gauges its always ticked?
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I know every Honda I ever owned ticked, some worse than others. Maybe the gap in the lifters is to allow oil to get in between for a cushion. Who knows how them Japs think lol. I think its not just the lifters making noise but a combination of play in all the components in the crankcase. Just a guess
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingman View Post
Toodeep, I just want to ask your opinion and maybe help this guy get his stuff quiet at the same time.
Ive had my hands in many Honda ATVs over the years from the early ATC 90s to the well ?my now new to me 2004 Rubicon.
I have been thru some crazy crap with the ATC 350x heads and there non existant cam bearings and such.
But my question is?, Is the Honda,clymer, Haynes manual got it straight?
I mean for years Ive always followed all the procedures and my bikes always ticked when done and ive always chalked it to it being a Honda and dont worry about it.
Years ago I was totally into 4-trax 250Rs and my brother wanted to get into the hobby and bought a blown up 250x thinking it would keep up with me .LOL
Anyway he had unlimited funds and went bigbore with head and jug getting sent off ,bigger carb and of a powroll pipe and silencer.(If you wanna call it that?)
I assembled everything and for the life of me could not get it stop ticking when running and I had set the valves according to the manual. Then my chevy head buddy(Im a Fordguy) came over and adjusted the valves by hand and woolah !
Now every since then everytime I do valves I just tighten them by hand and havent had a prob ever.(make sure you tighten the locknut)lol
When I say hand tighten I mean just make sure everything is loose and tighten down until you feel resistance, once you feel resistance hold it there and tighten locknut.
I know its hillbilly but its worked for me.
TooDeep, Can you give me the pros and cons of this procedure? Cause everytime Ive tried to use feeler gauges its always ticked?
You say Hillbilly like its a bad thing.......LMAO

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Old 07-28-2010, 11:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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IMO, a tight valve tappet can hurt performance just like a loose one and might put extra wear on the cam/lifters from the tight clearance. The performance cams can give some good ticking even when they are adjusted to the specs and I have set them at .001-.002 tighter than recommended with no problems but never have tried any with no clearance to see the outcome over the years.
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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After checking my compression which turned out to be between 45 and50 psi i checked the clerance yet again,it was 005, one thing i noticed when i started it with the adjustment plugs off, there was a whole lot of oil pouring over the front assembly, but not as much on the rear. I wonder if that's got something to do with the ticking/timing chain type sound i am hearing. Now i don't know where to turn next, with my compression down 20% i am thinking about taking it all apart, i am thinking about going with a slightly bigger piston,i would like to get a little more/torque -horse power than stock without jepordizing dependability.Has anyone here tried going with a slightly bigger piston, and jug?Also is the repair manual from honda worth buying, over the years i have bought more crappy manuals put together by people who have perfect knuckles and smooth skin.

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