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Oil drain plug size

69K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  toodeep  
#1 ·
Oil drain plug is a 12MM right? Anyone know the thread count? (hoping someone here has an extra laying around).

After reading about the problems with the plug breaking the block, I think I'm going to try to put a fumoto valve on my 09 500FM
 
#3 ·
Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Let us know when you do that project and also if you can find one. I would be interested in doing the same thing if its possible.
 
#5 ·
A piggyback drain plug would work also if you was worried about over-torquing it. It would have to be modified a touch to completely drain the motor because of the drain design.
 
#6 ·
I haven't even looked for my drain plug yet; don't know what it looks like.

I've used these valves for several years now on my vehicles. I used to pay people to change my oil, then one of them stripped he plug on my 93 Accord and said "yeah, those things just wear out".

Done all my basic maint myself since, as much to keep some mouth breather from tearing up my stuff as to save money.

Anyhow, is the drain on the Foreman in a tight spot or is it a nice easy flat spot? Looks like Fumoto makes a 12-1.5 that is part number F109. I need to look at my Foreman and see if there is room for a valve. Fumoto makes an extension too, but on an ATV you don't want something hanging down any further than absolutely necessary.
 
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#7 ·
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#9 ·
To FINALLY follow up on this, to this point I never used a fumoto valve. I have just been careful when changing my oil and haven't had any problem with the stock drain plug.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago when I split the cases on the wife's 420AT and I discovered that the idiot who had it before me was obviously not so careful. Found a busted off bung.

I looked and that part of the case was about $150, so I decided to go with a fumoto valve. It did require about 5 mins of dremel work, but I ended up with about $25 in this instead of $150 in a new case bit.

Am going to use blue loctite to put this in the case, and will let yall know how it goes. Will use a clip to ensure that the valve isn't flipped open while offroad, and since it never has to come out again, shouldn't be a problem with the minimal threads that are left.
 

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#11 ·
Well the bike is still in project mode. It holds oil fine, and drains oil fine (I slightly overfilled the bike when I added oil).

Still trying to get the thing to shift right so I haven't put any riding time on it yet. The skid will cover everything so I don't see any reason that it won't be fine.

I will say I picked up an 08 Rancher that had a busted bung and the bottom of the case was wallowed out so much that it wouldn't even hold a Fumoto. Had to replace the case on that one.

On the 09 AT I put this Fumoto on, the bung was busted but the case threads were still good so it was plenty strong to hold the Fumoto. I used blue loctite on the threads so it shouldn't go anywhere.
 
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#21 ·
@toodeep, what about a 350 Rancher case? Think it's thick enough to helicoil or tap it out to a 14mm?


Have one torn down. Trying to decide whether to just buy a used case or try to fix this one and perhaps make it stronger with a helicoil.
 
#17 ·
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/standard-fumoto-engine-oil-drain-valves

I'd do what Toodeep said if the case is thick enough to tap. On these 420's the case is really thin and wouldn't hold up for more than a couple of oil changes if you only had the case threaded and not the upper threaded part (that breaks off).

I've run these on all my on-pavement vehicles for probably 10 years now. They make oil changes quick and easy, and they are a high quality brass ball valve. Lot of the farmers around here started using them on their tractors and they use those metal clips to keep debris from catching the lever and possibly flipping it open.

There wasn't enough room to put the circlip on the one on this 420AT, so I just put a zip tie around the valve. It sits down in a channel on the valve, holding the lever closed (which is spring loaded and sits down in a notch when closed anyway). With the skid plate in place it should be 100% protected so the zip tie is just extra insurance.
 
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#19 ·
Just to update this, been running the 420AT for a bit now. No problems with the Fumoto thus far. Have changed the oil once since the rebuild and it went smoothly. It did hang down a hair past the factory plastic skid plate so I stuck a small piece of wood between the bottom of the engine and the skid to push the skid down about 1/4" and keep it from being pushed up so the Fumoto valve is completely up in there with no hang down.

I think it's going to work fine. I guess if I came down on a cypress knee or something similar just right where it went straight up into the oil drain hole in the skid it might catch on the fumoto, but if I do that it would probably break stuff anyway.
 
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#20 ·
Sounds good. How about avoiding the contact risks by welding a small protective plate/shielded edge/sleeve device on the skid tray below the oil drain point. No more concern with regards a small overhang ref the drain valve location.