Honda Foreman Forums banner

2006 Foreman S Transmission Problem

34K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  jeepwm69 
#1 ·
Greetings to all on this forum! My first post here, and I'm really hoping someone has encountered the problem I'm having and knows of a fix. I've spent 5 or 6 hours online today looking for an answer. . . with no luck yet including at this forum. I'm going to add as much info as I can to this post, so please bear with me.

I purchased a used 2006 Foreman S TRX500FM6 from a private party back in November, 2008 with about 5700 miles on it. I bought it with no owners or service manual. I brought it home and rode it a little bit until we got snow, and then stored it in the garage for the winter. Only ran it in the snow once in the late spring, and that basically in the driveway and really just to get a feel for it.

Not long after I bought it, I noticed that the machine sometimes had trouble shifting from Reverse to neutral and, although less often, also had trouble shifting from from 1st to neutral. Felt like the lever would bind up and not complete the motion- like it was "sticking" or something. I tried to not bang on the pedal too hard, and just keep "coaxing" it until it would shift- which it always eventually did.

This past weekend, I had a trailer hooked up to this Foreman and was hauling firewood. I've been doing this off and on for the past several weeks without anything unusual happening. Anyway, the tongue of the trailer got hung up on a little hump in the trail, so I put the ATV in reverse to back up a little and get a run at the incline, then shifted to 1st and pulled forward. I didn't get the trailer free, so I repeated this several times. In the course of trying to free the trailer, I noticed the transmission was starting to act up again and was having trouble getting from Reverse to 1st. In 3 or 4 attempts at "rocking" the trailer free, I had the "sticky lever", trouble- shifting problem, and noticed that once or twice the machine actually appeared to skip neutral and went straight from 1st to Reverse. Finally the machine wound up in 1st and would not shift down to neutral or Reverse again.

I shifted up to 2nd to confirm that the transmission was working at all, and it shifted up just fine but still would not shift back down. I then thought maybe I had to go up to 5th to sort of "realign" things, but once in 5th it still would not shift down. I eventually had to just shut the machine off and take stock.

I then towed the Foreman back to my garage to get a better look at things. I tried rocking it back and forth while shifting down, and after 20 minutes of trying did get it to shift from 5th to 4th. I have not been able to get it to shift down any further, though, and I can't turn the engine over since it's not in neutral. The shift lever is still acting like it should- clicks when pressed and returns to center when released. It's not "dangling" or anything like that. I haven't tried shifting up again, since it took so much work to get it down to 4th in the first place.

I also want to mention that while I was poking around the left side of the motor, I discovered a small rubber hose with a brown or black plastic cup hanging down to the bottom plate. I'm not sure what it is, it smells of gas but does not seem to be leaking it. It comes from the bottom of the first part that the fuel line enters after leaving the gas tank- something mounted high and behind the engine. The plastic cap on the end is a little busted up. Can anyone tell me what that hose is and if it's supposed to connect anywhere? I searched for quite a while and didn't find any obvious connection point.

Obviously my first question is, does anyone know anything about this issue? Is there a way that I'm overlooking to get the machine to shift back to neutral? I would like to be able to turn the engine over to see if the linkage is just stuck or something. Is there a way to get the engine started while it's in gear?

My other question is regarding a service manual. I like to work with Haynes manuals, but they don't seem to offer one that covers this model. I've seen links to other manuals here, but am wondering if Haynes has one since I'm used to working with them.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can't seem to find anyone who's seen a Foreman do this, and am starting to worry that there's a major problem here. Thanks in advance. . . .
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Wow,
First off... Welcome to the forum,

I think the small rubber hose with the gas smell is just the carb over flow drain line,
normal , no problem.

The shift problem from Rev. to N and from N to 1st gear is a common problem if your engine idle speed is set too high.
try lowering the idle speed using the black thumb screw on side of carb and see if it helps.
maybe you will get lucky..
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the welcome, Desert Dawg. Sorry for the long first- time post but didn't want to leave out any necessary info.

The idle setting may be the issue, but as of now the machine is stuck in 4th gear and won't shift down- so I can't turn the engine over at all. The primary task right now is to get it back to neutral so I can get the engine started.

Thanks for the tip on the dangling hose. Someone else also mentioned that it was probably the carb overflow, so I'll quit worrying about that one now.

MN
 
#4 ·
That 05 and newer foreman will start in 4th gear,, or any gear for that matter...

a little Info.............. ha

Turn the ign key on and pull back and hold the right side handlebar ( front) brake handle.
while holding back on this handle hit the start button, it should turn over and start for you.
try it .
 
#5 ·
Nope, just ran out and tried it and it didn't turn over. It has only started in neutral as long as I've had it, and I've experimented with that before. I've shut it off in gear a few times before and had to tap down to neutral to get it to turn over. Thanks, though.

MN
 
#7 ·
The gearshift plate itself could be broke or maybe even the gearshift arm. Try working the shifter by hand, if it's working proper you should feel it trying to engauge, there is going to be some resistance on it from the spring so dont get the two confused.

The clutch cover has to come off to inspect shift plate, the shifter will spring back into place even with the plate being broke. But if the shift arm is broken the shifter will just hand down.

Heres a link with a parts finder, just type in you bike info and it show you every part on the bike. Once you have your info in and it brings up the parts finder, just seach under gearshift drum and it will show you the parts I am talking about.
http://www.polarispartspitstop.com/
 
#8 ·
Thanks m & D4; input's helping right now.

Checked out the exploded parts view a few days ago. The pedal is operating very much as it did before, so I don't think its the shift arm. I think I'm hearing the trans trying to engage. It still settles in the middle after up or down action. I hadn't thought of the plate, though. I could really use a repair manual, to get a better picture and some terminology. If you've got a recommendation it would help a lot.

The previous owner told me specifically that the machine would only start in neutral, and I have found that to be true so far. I'm also a little confused about how the transmission would be able to work intermitently- like "shift every so often" when I managed to get it from 5 to 4. I am considering the high mileage, though, and am braced for the worse end of the deal, I guess. I'm fairly able when it comes to the old '80s 'yota 22-RE, but these things are clearly different. I really appreciate any ideas that you might have. Thanks again,

MN
 
#9 ·
I am getting close to the end of my knowledge base on your problem.
Here are a couple more things you might try. BTW That mileage is not considered
over the limit too high, Its a HONDA. Its justs gettin broke in ... lol

Pull the pull start rope and see if the engine turns over, it should even in gear.
if not, might have a starter locked up in or a froze up engine.

How is the engine oil level ? Tyranny lubes by engine oil.

Jack up rear end of bike and make sure its in 2 wheel drive, see if you can turn the rear tire at all, might be some torque on them. reason it will not shift.

Finally try the start in gear procedure again ... key on, right brake handle back, and this time use the pull rope starter, ( by pass the starter button system.)

good luck...............
 
#10 ·
Hey Dawg, good morning.

Okay, I checked the oil level first. Oil is a light brown color, not milky or muddy. Wheeler's been sitting level overnight, so the cold level on the stick reads above the max marker when first removed. When wiped and dipped back in (without threading the cap) it reads dead- on max level.

Jacked up the back end and set the switch for 2WD. Rear wheels turn freely clockwise (to the right/reverse) and turn counterclockwise (left/forward) with some resistance that seems in line with being in 4th gear, ie. there's resistance as the piston turns then free until the next stroke. I can smell gas running through the carb when I do this or roll the machine forward.

Tied the right brake handle down, turned the key and set the switch to "run". Tried the rope starter both with and without choke. The engine turns, but will not turn over. The only thing I noticed is that there's a "ping" sound as the recoil starter finishes its stroke. . . as in "<pull> chug-chug ping". Not sure if that's normal as I haven't ever had to use the recoil starter. It doesn't sound menacing, though.

It's sad to say, but I'm feeling a little better that I'm not the only one who's perplexed by this. Of course, that doesn't really take the sting out of a downed Foreman though, either!

Another question re: the previous posts: If I pull that clutch cover off should I expect to see oil. . . meaning should I drain first or have a pan handy?

MN
 
#11 ·
man I missed alot of this post, I seem to skim over things being at work.

another way to try to start it is by jumping the starter relay under the seat. by doing this it will eliminate a starter problem if it turns over. Yes oil will come out if the bike is sitting on all four wheels. if you stand it up on the back rack then no need to drain the oil, plus it's easier to work on because everything will be shoulder high.

QUOTE
I had the "sticky lever", trouble- shifting problem,
this problem may of been cause from the clutches not being adjusted proper. If they are too loose the shifting parts on top of the clutch pack can be pushed out of place given you the same problems you listed above. Which still requires you to remove the front cover for inspection.
 
#12 ·
Thanks Dirty4Man, appreciated. I'm pretty new to these vehicles, can you give me a rundown on jumping the starter relay? Also, any thoughts on why it's not starting now and/or if I should even be trying to start it in its current condition?

Thanks for the tips and insight!

MN
 
#13 ·
you can either ground out the small green wire going to the relay or just jump accross the two big terminals on top of the relay.

Have you checked all the fuses under the seat? There is a fuse block and main fuse behind the block.
 
#14 ·
Okay, checked the fuses. The only one that's burned out is the ACC, it's been out since I bought the machine.

I'm probably going to sounds like a moron here, but is the starter relay in the next to and back opposite of the battery? Looks a little like a tranformer? Thanks again,

MN
 
#15 ·
no stupid question here, just the ones you dont ask.

Honda calls it a relay, but it is a solonoid similiar to what you have in a old car or truck. Just follow the positive cable from the battery, it goes to one side of it and the other goes straight to the starter. By jumping it your just bypassing all the safety devises.

I not sure on the 500's but on the old foreman 400/450's they have a main 30 amp fuse behind the fuse block in a black rubber boot. This is what feels the ignition switch and they where known for coroding and causing problems.
 
#16 ·
Thanks again, D4M. Looked for that booted 30 Amp fuse. but found nothing resembling that behind or near the fuse block.

Ran a jumper across the selonoid and got the engine to turn. Thanks much for that one, BTW! The engine sounds very similar to normal operation, with the exception of it not turning over and running on its own. I tried with and w/out choke, key on, run switch in on position, right and left brakes applied, and even gave it a touch of gas from the throttle but it just wouldn't take. There's obviously something going on between the battery and starter, but I'm even more perplexed at why it won't turn over when that is bypassed. I need a manual for sure; you folks here like the Helm's manuals, right?

MN
 
#18 ·
Try pulling back on both brake levers right and left, mine wont turn over in gear unless you pull both brake levers cause theres a switch on both levers. Try it you'll like it.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the tip, Kipes, but no- go. When turned on and with both brake levers applied the start button does nothing- does not even turn the engine. Tried the previous with the foot brake applied, too. With E- Brake applied to the left handle and right brake handle applied the recoil starter turns the engine but it does not fire. With the E- Brake applied to the left handle and the right break handle applied, jumping the solenoid turns the engine but it will not fire. Tried all of these before, but just tried them again to be absolutely sure.

The engine's turning and I can smell gas, I think it's just not getting a spark. There's some "safety" feature that is still in operation, and I have no idea what it could be. Thanks again for trying,

MN
 
#21 ·
Thanks Foreman5, I've already explored that and the switch looks fine.

I've got it narrowed down to what some call a "neutral sensor safety switch", which apparently is involved in lighting that neutral light on the display- no neutral light, no spark. Some have suggested that I could jumper over the coil to get a spark from the plug, but no one who's suggested it says that they would actually recommend it, and I don't like the idea well enough myself to try it.

Machine's going to the local Wrench later on today. I have only wanted to get it started to see if that would free up the transmission, but it is very likely that there is a serious issue in there and that starting the engine would only serve to prove that point. At this point, I'm seriously hoping for a relatively "minor" situation under the front cover- spring, bearing, gearshift plate, etc. There's a chance that there's a problem with the shift forks, too, which will mean opening the block.

The biggest problem that I have at the moment (besides spending hundreds of dollars getting this machine running again) is that I've been trying to figure out what's wrong without having access to a good service manual- a question that I have posed to this forum 2 or 3 times now without so much as a hint at an answer. I won't profess to being a "master mechanic" or anything like that, but my Haynes manuals and my wits have kept many used vehicles running for the past 15 years and I know that I could at least be walking into the repair shop with a much greater understanding if I had even gotten 1 day with a manual before taking it in. Now maybe some (understandably) thought that I was requesting a manual for free, but I wasn't and never meant to imply such a thing. I was simply asking for a recommendation. I'll admit that it's been a little frustrating.

I would also like to add that I live way back in the woods of northern MN, and I rely very heavily on my tools and machinery for some pretty basic things like hunting, heat, gardening/farming/etc. I don't abuse my machinery because I need it; I don't go bogging with this thing or come flying off of hills looking to catch air. My idea of a joy ride on my Foreman is taking a 10 mph cruise around the property to choose which popple trees have to be felled before they bust on their own and take out a nice pine or maple. Before buying an ATV, I did my research and specifically chose the Honda Foreman for its reported reliability- and the manual shift for its reported repairability. And although I am far from being willing to condemn a manufacturer or its product line based on this specific experience, I'm sure folks can understand that- so far- I'm in no position to issue a glowing recommendation for the Honda Foreman. I assume that I will be able to do so in time- once I have cleared this hurdle. But so far I have been shocked at how little technical information is available for these machines on the web- as have been others in my area here that have been trying to lend a hand with this problem. And as reliable as the '06 Foreman may be, I find it impossible to believe that no one else has ever encountered this problem. That's neither here nor there, though.

As a footnote to the above I want to state that I am in no way attempting to slight anyone on this forum or any other; nor am I interested in engaging in a debate regarding the reliability of the Honda Foreman! I have no motive for the former and not enough experience yet for the latter. Once I have a report from the mechanic, I will return and post his findings so that the knowledge can be archived somewhere for the next person who encouters this problem- and so that some additional value can be derived by someone from the hard earned dollars that I am about to spend. Thanks to all for their input.

MN
 
#22 ·
#23 ·
Helllo there. A friend of mine had shifting problems like that and dissmantled his trans to look for the problem. Everything looked good so he called a honda dealer looking for advice and was told that dirty oil can cause that problem. He reassembled his machine and added new oil of course and the bike worked great. Ive heard of another guy with the same problem and an oil change fixed it right up. Try changing oil before an expensive trip to a shop. Cant hurt. Good luck!!!!!
 
#24 ·
Thanks to BigDog and Moosehunter for the input. It's appreciated.

The Foreman is back from the shop. The final verdict: Broken Gearshift Plate. The mechanic and I agree that it was cracked when I bought the machine, and that I finally just hit the inevitable when hauling wood a week ago. This is based on the condition of the cracked edges on the bottom half of the plate. It wasn't a cheap fix, but the mechanic says everything else under the front plate looks good. I think it was Dirty4Man (???) that suggested this might be the problem. Can't find that post at the moment, but to whoever it was that had that diagnosis- KUDOS to you.

MN
 
#25 ·
I have a 2005 honda foreman 500Es 4x4 it's yellow was riding a types going through a mud puddle with I heard a loud pop noise the wheeler didn't die but now I can't change gears I can manual shift under seat but by gear up or down on handle bar nothing what could that be ?
 
#26 ·
Welcome to the forum.

If you can manually shift the gears but the ES function isn't working anymore I'd be pulling off the shift motor on lower left front of the motor.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top