Sooner

Mine says API SG or higher except oils labeled "energy conserving." API SF, SG and SH are older, obsolete ratings. Most oils you find on Walmart shelves (API SL or SM ratings) exceed the SG rating required in most ATVs. The API ratings are backward compatible. I think right now API SM is the highest rating you can buy.

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2007 Suzuki King Quad 450 4x4 - 14" ITP SS112 wheels, 26" Bighorns, Xtreme 3" lift, RT2500 Winch, Twin Air filter, RAM GPS mount, Lowrance GPS, Plano ATV storage box, 2 - Playmate coolers and a RAM self-leveling beer holder
2010 Can Am Outlander 650 Max - 26" Bighorns, 200 watt audio tube by Sooner, BRP rear storage box
2007 Honda Rancher 420 4x4 ES (red), 14" ITP SS112 wheels, 26" Bighorns (Sold)
2007 Honda Rancher 420 4x4 ES (yellow), 14" ITP SS112 wheels, 26" Bighorns (Sold)

Helmut

This came from the manual. Notice that it says "without molybdenum additives" (friction modifiers).

Like stated above, it doesn't have to be Honda oil, but it needs to be free of friction modifiers.

Helmut

That's the whole point, you need the lesser quality oils without friction modifiers. If it says "energy conserving", don't use it. Most automotive oils are "too good".

Also the friction modifiers is the reason that you're never supposed to use any kind of additives in your engine oil.

Helmut

Yeah, I don't know why it says "SG or higher", but I guess it means without friction modifiers, since it says "except energy conserving".

99trxdw

This certainly brought about a good conversation!

I got the new oil in it and it oddly enough seems to be a bit peppier? Probably just me imagining it, unless the correct oil isn't allowing the clutch to slip as much? I found a partial bottle left of the stuff I had in it before and it was SL rated I believe, but it said energy conserving on the bottle.

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99 foreman 450 s.

islanderr37

ive had my foreman for over seven years 25000 klm(15,500 miles) used honda oil for around 4 years then someone told me that the honda tech,s use bulk oil and not honda oil then someone else said honda doesnt own a oil factory anyway i started using castrol 10w40 motorcycle/atv oil .this bike has been driven, not easy trail driving. i change the oil about every 700-800 klms now that it has all these kilometers. engine is still original.anyway castrol 10w40 is just fine.

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foreman 2001 450s perfex long travel kit.20,000 km now 25 mudlights xl

Helmut

I'm sure Honda oil is just one of the popular brands. They probably just leave out the friction modifiers and put the Honda label on the bottle. I don't know what brand, but I'm sure it's the one that offers Honda the cheapest price.

hoytguy07

if there is any other atv dealership near you get their oil it is the same as honda oil. if it is atv oil. don't be cheep. i used valvoline atv oil before and my cluch slipped second time out on my 1988 trx300. after that the extra $ for good atv manufacturer oil was actually cheaper in the long run and smoother shifting.

Sooner

Honda makes HP4 oil both with AND without moly.
"Energy Conserving" on the API rating means it is usually high in moly.
API SG or higher includes up to API SM

I agree that oil with moly additives are bad on the clutch. My manual says non-energy conserving oils only which rules out any oils lighter than 10W-40 and all synthetics for me. But, you can't tell someone who doesn't know any better that they have to use an oil that is "ATV specific" or for "wet clutches" when most the non-synthetic oils on the Walmart shelf are perfectly fine for ATVs and wet clutches. I think what should've been said instead is to avoid oils with additives or energy conserving oils. Of course it's important you follow the owner's manual and get the oil with the correct API rating (non-energy conserving if that's what it calls for like my manual does) as it is listed in the manual.

In my case, I use Castrol GTX 10W-40 with a non-energy conserving, SM API rating. It is not ATV or wet clutch specific but it doesn't contain a bunch of additives and it is fully compatible with the Hondas. Beware though, most oils with weights lighter than 10W-40 (i.e. 5W-30, 10W-30, etc.) are energy conserving and do contain additives which my owner's manual specifically prohibits. Also if I remember correctly, most all of the non-synthetic 10W-40 oils are non-energy conserving with at least an SG API rating or higher. Any one of those should work just fine with the Hondas.

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2007 Suzuki King Quad 450 4x4 - 14" ITP SS112 wheels, 26" Bighorns, Xtreme 3" lift, RT2500 Winch, Twin Air filter, RAM GPS mount, Lowrance GPS, Plano ATV storage box, 2 - Playmate coolers and a RAM self-leveling beer holder
2010 Can Am Outlander 650 Max - 26" Bighorns, 200 watt audio tube by Sooner, BRP rear storage box
2007 Honda Rancher 420 4x4 ES (red), 14" ITP SS112 wheels, 26" Bighorns (Sold)
2007 Honda Rancher 420 4x4 ES (yellow), 14" ITP SS112 wheels, 26" Bighorns (Sold)

action450s

Exactly, the most important line in your quote is motorcycle/atv oil. The brand is your own personal choice, the lack of friction modifiers is key. If you use a cheper ATV/motorcycle oil and change often, I cant see ANY harm from doing so at all.