'96 Foreman 400 Issues! - Page 3 - Honda Foreman Forums : Rubicon, Rincon, Rancher and Recon Forum

thetater11 · 10-18-2011, 08:13 AM

Well I finally got the axle nuts off all wheels, impact wrench worked like a charm. Used a 1 3/16" socket for the rears since I couldn't find a 30mm socket and it worked fine. Now I'm having some trouble getting the rear brake drum off...it should just slide off the shaft correct? It move in and out about 1/2" but can't get it completely off. Any ideas? Also having the same problem getting the front left brake drum off. Its like the brakes are stuck or something. I ordered the disc brake kit from superatv.com so I'm not worried about bending the brake panel to get it off cause I won't need it but is there a good way to get it off? I'll be taking the rear axle out tonight for inspection...if I can get the rear brake drum off. And it's my understanding it will pull right out once I take the axle stopper like toodeep mentioned...and that should slide right off as well?

Also, most all the parts (bolts,nuts, etc.) I'm taking off are pretty dirty. Is there a certain parts cleaner I can fill a bucket or something with and soak all these parts in to get them clean again? Something that will remove the grease and dirt?

rich450es · 10-18-2011, 10:27 AM

to clean the parts get a 5 gal bucket and just use dawn dishwashing liquid and soak it and then scrub them with a wire brush
on the front i have a slide hammer but if you cant get one ,just pb blaster the he11 out of it and pry it off ....some times it may take awile

on the rear drum you have to be carefull not to break the aluminum backing plate when prying it off (its like $160) just be carefull and take your time and it will come off (the last one i did took me 3/4 of a hour to do )
.....rich

**toodeep** · 10-18-2011, 10:45 AM

On the rear drum make sure the brake are is in the neutral position (brakes released completely). I use a flat screwdriver and slightly pry on one side (not much pressure just enough to feel it) and tap on the opposite side of the brake drum with a hammer.

thetater11 · 10-19-2011, 11:50 AM

Got all the brake drums off that I was having trouble with. The hammer and flat head method worked pretty well and took about 15 mins. I pulled the rear axle shaft out and it is indeed stripped on the center. So I'll need a new shaft I guess ($143.20 on bikebandit.com). But what else should I check? Since the shaft is stripped on the center, I'm guessing the gears in the rear diff are all fine? Or could some of them (which ones?) be stripped as well? Like the inside of the final gear that the shaft goes through since that's where it stripped? Hope I don't need a new gear set, those are pricey! I'll also be getting new bearings and seals for the rear as well.

Also, on the rear brake...how do you release the brake cables? I tried to unscrew the adjustment nuts like it said in the manual but then I get to a point where the whole brake cable just starts to spin.

And on the rear brake as well, the brake arm should be able to rotate correct? Since it turns the cam which extends the shoes outward? I can't get the brake arm off the cam and both won't rotate. All caked up with junk. I was thinking once I get the cables off, I can give the brake arm a few hits with a hammer to loosen it so I can get it off?

What size socket do I need for the spark plug? I have a spark plug socket but it's not deep enough. Do the ATV spark plugs have longer heads on them or something?

**toodeep** · 10-19-2011, 11:57 AM

Check the splines on the final drive the axle goes through for wear but most of the time they are good enough that a new axle will work.

On the cable near the threaded end is a nut built into the cable. Hold the cable there while unscrewing the nuts. There is a bolt that holds the arm to the cam, once that is removed the arm will slide off (might take a few taps from a hammer). To get the cam out lightly heat the brake housing around the cam and carefully tap on it to get it out. Use a punch if you have one so you don't mushroom the end of it.

thetater11 · 10-20-2011, 08:38 AM

Thanks again guys, this forum and your input has been a tremendous help!

I'm making a list of parts I need as I go and looks like one of the main things I'll need are for the rear end rebuild...rear axle, bearings and seals among a few other small things here and there like CV boots. I've been pricing things out, mostly on bikebandit.com. Is this a good place to get parts? They have all OEM parts, but I've seen some stuff on eBay for rear end bearing and seal rebuild kits, etc. Should I be using only OEM to be on the safe side? Or can these eBay aftermarket parts do the job? Not sure how much I'd save by going the eBay route, but I also don't want to get some cheap aftermarket parts that are pretty important like bearings and what not that might not hold up as well.

Thanks again!

rich450es · 10-20-2011, 09:43 AM

i have had good luck with e-bay parts (bearins,gaskets,seals,cv boots, carb kits,piston rings,and pistons) but for front wheel bearings i wont buy aftermarket .
this is where i get my parts
Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

thetater11 · 10-21-2011, 09:56 AM

More progress...got the rear right and left axle housings off so I could get the rear diff off. When I looked into the rear left axle housing, turns out there was no bearing at all in there at all, just the remains of a oil seal, so looks like that's the cause of my rear axle being stripped. I got the rear diff off and looks like the splines on the final drive gear that the rear axle goes through are shot too, so I need to find a final gear. So I got the diff off but can't get it open to get to the gears. It should just pry off right? It said in the manual it should pry off using the tabs on each side but it's stuck on there.

Also got the front knuckle off the bottom arm, but having trouble knocking it loose from the top arm. Once the castle nut is removed it should just be able to slide off the top arm right? I was able to move the knuckle out of the way enough to the point I could get the outboard end of the shaft out of it so I can pull the shaft out of the front diff to replace the inboard CV boot. I tried to pull the shaft out of the front diff but it won't come all the way out. I can see the inboard joint but it's not coming all the way out. Does it just require a good yank on it? And both front invoard CV boots are split in two so I'm replacing them...but it looks like once I replace them, they'll tear again because of the angle on the shaft. Could it be possible that with the lift thats on the bike and larger tires that its causing a steep angle for the front shafts and causing the CV boots to tear?

Another thing...my rear brake lever is pretty loose and moves up and down quite a bit. What can I adjust to make it not so flimsy?

10-18-2011, 08:13 AM	#21 (permalink)
thetater11 Honda Rider Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 39	Well I finally got the axle nuts off all wheels, impact wrench worked like a charm. Used a 1 3/16" socket for the rears since I couldn't find a 30mm socket and it worked fine. Now I'm having some trouble getting the rear brake drum off...it should just slide off the shaft correct? It move in and out about 1/2" but can't get it completely off. Any ideas? Also having the same problem getting the front left brake drum off. Its like the brakes are stuck or something. I ordered the disc brake kit from superatv.com so I'm not worried about bending the brake panel to get it off cause I won't need it but is there a good way to get it off? I'll be taking the rear axle out tonight for inspection...if I can get the rear brake drum off. And it's my understanding it will pull right out once I take the axle stopper like toodeep mentioned...and that should slide right off as well? Also, most all the parts (bolts,nuts, etc.) I'm taking off are pretty dirty. Is there a certain parts cleaner I can fill a bucket or something with and soak all these parts in to get them clean again? Something that will remove the grease and dirt? Last edited by thetater11; 10-18-2011 at 08:17 AM.

10-18-2011, 10:27 AM	#22 (permalink)
rich450es Honda Red Wing Rider Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: ludlow,mass Posts: 10,524	to clean the parts get a 5 gal bucket and just use dawn dishwashing liquid and soak it and then scrub them with a wire brush on the front i have a slide hammer but if you cant get one ,just pb blaster the he11 out of it and pry it off ....some times it may take awile on the rear drum you have to be carefull not to break the aluminum backing plate when prying it off (its like $160) just be carefull and take your time and it will come off (the last one i did took me 3/4 of a hour to do ) .....rich __________________ 2000 foreman 450 es-s the fking pig 14% 300 foretrax gear reduction 30in gorila silverbacks on C-5 wheels 2500lb warn winch superatv disk brake conversion kit 2in ssatv lift kit and progressive 512 shocks the original 4in PVC storage tube hurculined racks with rear cargo box czr loud exhaust , uni airfilter and drilled main jet foreman 450 parts for sale pm me for info**

10-19-2011, 11:50 AM	#24 (permalink)
thetater11 Honda Rider Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 39	Got all the brake drums off that I was having trouble with. The hammer and flat head method worked pretty well and took about 15 mins. I pulled the rear axle shaft out and it is indeed stripped on the center. So I'll need a new shaft I guess ($143.20 on bikebandit.com). But what else should I check? Since the shaft is stripped on the center, I'm guessing the gears in the rear diff are all fine? Or could some of them (which ones?) be stripped as well? Like the inside of the final gear that the shaft goes through since that's where it stripped? Hope I don't need a new gear set, those are pricey! I'll also be getting new bearings and seals for the rear as well. Also, on the rear brake...how do you release the brake cables? I tried to unscrew the adjustment nuts like it said in the manual but then I get to a point where the whole brake cable just starts to spin. And on the rear brake as well, the brake arm should be able to rotate correct? Since it turns the cam which extends the shoes outward? I can't get the brake arm off the cam and both won't rotate. All caked up with junk. I was thinking once I get the cables off, I can give the brake arm a few hits with a hammer to loosen it so I can get it off? What size socket do I need for the spark plug? I have a spark plug socket but it's not deep enough. Do the ATV spark plugs have longer heads on them or something? __________________ 1996 Foreman TRX400FW - Green SuperATV Disc Brake Kit Snorkle 2" Lift 27-9-11 Super Swampers Rear seat/storage Repairs underway: Rear diff rebuild Rear brake rebuild New carb New bearings front/rear New real axle Last edited by thetater11; 10-19-2011 at 11:55 AM.

10-20-2011, 08:38 AM	#26 (permalink)
thetater11 Honda Rider Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 39	Thanks again guys, this forum and your input has been a tremendous help! I'm making a list of parts I need as I go and looks like one of the main things I'll need are for the rear end rebuild...rear axle, bearings and seals among a few other small things here and there like CV boots. I've been pricing things out, mostly on bikebandit.com. Is this a good place to get parts? They have all OEM parts, but I've seen some stuff on eBay for rear end bearing and seal rebuild kits, etc. Should I be using only OEM to be on the safe side? Or can these eBay aftermarket parts do the job? Not sure how much I'd save by going the eBay route, but I also don't want to get some cheap aftermarket parts that are pretty important like bearings and what not that might not hold up as well. Thanks again! __________________ 1996 Foreman TRX400FW - Green SuperATV Disc Brake Kit Snorkle 2" Lift 27-9-11 Super Swampers Rear seat/storage Repairs underway: Rear diff rebuild Rear brake rebuild New carb New bearings front/rear New real axle

10-20-2011, 09:43 AM	#27 (permalink)
rich450es Honda Red Wing Rider Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: ludlow,mass Posts: 10,524	i have had good luck with e-bay parts (bearins,gaskets,seals,cv boots, carb kits,piston rings,and pistons) but for front wheel bearings i wont buy aftermarket . this is where i get my parts Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse __________________ 2000 foreman 450 es-s the fking pig 14% 300 foretrax gear reduction 30in gorila silverbacks on C-5 wheels 2500lb warn winch superatv disk brake conversion kit 2in ssatv lift kit and progressive 512 shocks the original 4in PVC storage tube hurculined racks with rear cargo box czr loud exhaust , uni airfilter and drilled main jet foreman 450 parts for sale pm me for info**

10-18-2011, 10:45 AM	#23 (permalink)
toodeep Administrator Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: south dakota Posts: 6,628	On the rear drum make sure the brake are is in the neutral position (brakes released completely). I use a flat screwdriver and slightly pry on one side (not much pressure just enough to feel it) and tap on the opposite side of the brake drum with a hammer.

10-19-2011, 11:57 AM	#25 (permalink)
toodeep Administrator Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: south dakota Posts: 6,628	Check the splines on the final drive the axle goes through for wear but most of the time they are good enough that a new axle will work. On the cable near the threaded end is a nut built into the cable. Hold the cable there while unscrewing the nuts. There is a bolt that holds the arm to the cam, once that is removed the arm will slide off (might take a few taps from a hammer). To get the cam out lightly heat the brake housing around the cam and carefully tap on it to get it out. Use a punch if you have one so you don't mushroom the end of it.

10-21-2011, 09:56 AM	#28 (permalink)
thetater11 Honda Rider Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 39	More progress...got the rear right and left axle housings off so I could get the rear diff off. When I looked into the rear left axle housing, turns out there was no bearing at all in there at all, just the remains of a oil seal, so looks like that's the cause of my rear axle being stripped. I got the rear diff off and looks like the splines on the final drive gear that the rear axle goes through are shot too, so I need to find a final gear. So I got the diff off but can't get it open to get to the gears. It should just pry off right? It said in the manual it should pry off using the tabs on each side but it's stuck on there. Also got the front knuckle off the bottom arm, but having trouble knocking it loose from the top arm. Once the castle nut is removed it should just be able to slide off the top arm right? I was able to move the knuckle out of the way enough to the point I could get the outboard end of the shaft out of it so I can pull the shaft out of the front diff to replace the inboard CV boot. I tried to pull the shaft out of the front diff but it won't come all the way out. I can see the inboard joint but it's not coming all the way out. Does it just require a good yank on it? And both front invoard CV boots are split in two so I'm replacing them...but it looks like once I replace them, they'll tear again because of the angle on the shaft. Could it be possible that with the lift thats on the bike and larger tires that its causing a steep angle for the front shafts and causing the CV boots to tear? Another thing...my rear brake lever is pretty loose and moves up and down quite a bit. What can I adjust to make it not so flimsy? __________________ 1996 Foreman TRX400FW - Green SuperATV Disc Brake Kit Snorkle 2" Lift 27-9-11 Super Swampers Rear seat/storage Repairs underway: Rear diff rebuild Rear brake rebuild New carb New bearings front/rear New real axle Last edited by thetater11; 10-21-2011 at 10:01 AM.

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