hzvw6y

Thanks to ANYONE who reads and has any input! I have a 2002 Honda Foreman 400 TRX400FW, with manual gear shifter pedal. The machine is currently stuck in reverse. I am able to depress the shifter down to its bottom travel, but the shifter will only spring back up to the horizontal position. It will not travel up. I can not upshift out of reverse. It seems to be completely seized/locked out. Is something broken inside that is preventing any upward travel of the gearshifter? Being stuck in reverse, I can not even start the engine to get this on my truck and into a shop. I want to repair at home, but can not imagine where to start. I have adjusted the reverse lockout cable play to the 2-4 mm spec. I have even removed the cable from the bottom of the trans and manipulated the reverse linkage by hand. Again, there is absolutely ZERO upward travel of my gearshifter...no way to get it to go past horizontal. Thanks to all!!

toodeep

There's a few things it might be. It could be the shift plate, shift arm or the bolt came loose on the shift drum. All of those will be located under the front engine cover. #12,11,28

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ho...;A=150&B=15


and good luck with the fix.

hzvw6y

Thank You toodeep! And thanks for the exploded view. If it happens to be one of the three items you mentioned, do you think I will be able to assess by removing the front cover and looking in with a light? Is it possible to actually make the repair with the engine/trans still attached to the machine? Do you have another picture (or manual repair pages) that indicate the steps/precautions needed to remove the front cover and make these repairs? If so, would you be able to email me supporting documents to ej.johnson@gm.com

Thanks again....you guys are great!

toodeep

This is what it will look like in there. The repair can be done in the frame and I find it easiest to set the machine on it's rear rack (stand it up). Once you remove the front cover and depending on what's wrong the hardest thing will be removing the clutches. The centrifugal clutch takes a puller and DirtyForeman has some good pics of using a 3 jaw puller and hose clamps to remove it or if you have a good local dealer they might borrow you one for a deposit.

hzvw6y

Thanks again. I will use the info you supplied and attempt the fix. If I can't fix it, I will have the shop do it. In any event, I will return a reply to this post to let everyone know what had malfunctioned, and what repaired it.

hzvw6y

Well....found the problem. Broken gear shift plate item #12. Completey cracked in half. Loose piece was found jamming the entire asm. Once I took the front cover off, a few pieces of the gear shift drum and others sort of flopped out loose. Will have to buy an OEM sevice manual to understand how all of this goes back together. Thanks much for the help. Good forum!

toodeep

That's what we are here for. A shop manual will pay itself off very fast, compare the cost of it to an hour of labor at the dealer and it's almost/is free.

hzvw6y

Bought the manual and new gear shift plate, and of course, I have some questions. Sorry about the long post, but I am hoping you can help again.

First, understand that when I found the broken gear shift plate, I did not have to remove the centrifugal or change clutches...I just fished the broken pieces out. Now, at this point, I HAVE removed the lifter cam and lever, sub-gearshift spindle arm, return spring, guide plate bolt and guide plate, and gearshift drum. The master arm assembly and thrust washer is still installed on the sub-gearshift spindle (I can't remove it without removing the clutches!)

1) Is it possible to install the gearshift plate and guide plate behind the master arm WITHOUT having to remove the master arm (thus NOT having to remove the clutches)?

2) When installing the gearshift drum, MUST the dowel pin be aligned with the crankcase index mark (denoting neutral), or can all of this be re-assembled in any gear?

3) When installing gearshift plate, what feature orients/indexes it? Or, just slide it on and ‘point’ it at the center of the clutch?

4) After installing the ball retainer/spring to the lifter plate, how do I ensure a proper fit between the balls and clutch adjusting plate? Just wiggle the front cover some as I install it and make sure it ‘feels right’?

5) When installing the clutch lever to the sub-gearshift spindle (at bottom) and clutch lifter cam (at top), do I slide on a final washer onto the end of the sub-gearshift spindle? I have an ‘extra’ washer and can’t figure where it goes. If it DOES go here, how does it keep? Does it just seat against the front cover when I install the cover?

Thanks for your help and patience. Never done this sort of thing before so I am GREEN! Having fun though!

toodeep

1. I always remove the clutches, it makes it easier to get to everything and make sure it's correct. You might get by just removing the nut on the change clutch and pulling it forward enough to sneak everything by it???

2. It can be assembled in any gear, make sure to use loctite on the bolt!!!

3. The gear shift plate will just sit on the shifter drum and spindle and the little tin plate (and the spring once the rest is together) will hold it in place.

4. Once everything including the front cover is assembled adjust the clutch.

5. That is where the washer goes, the front cover holds it in place on the spindle.

When you get the gearshift components in place try shifting it a little to make sure everything is working. Without the transmission turning over you won't get many gears but you should be able to see everything working.

hzvw6y

FYI for any of you who have a similar repair to make. YES....the shifter arm (item #12) CAN be replaced without having to remove either of the clutches. Just slide the master arm as much forward as you can, and sneak the shifter arm in place, then the guide plate and bolt, then the master arm. Note that IF the master arm needs to be replaced, then you MUST remove both clutches.....no way to sneak the master arm past the clutches.

ALSO....I attempted this repair with the the machine lying on its side (well, actually about a 45 deg angle with two jack stands supporting the machine at the front and rear utility racks). DO NOT attempt the repair this way, because the shifter cam and lever wants to hang STRAIGHT down, and the clutch ball/retainer will not nest properly with the front cover. Instead, you must jack the front of the machine up so that the gravity will work in your favor, perflectly aligining the shifter cam and lever with the shifter spindle....the clutch adjustment will fit perfectly with the clutch cam asm this way.